Byron Bay Bliss

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Overview

There’s a reason Chris Hemsworth has a mega mansion here and why Zac Efron chose Byron Bay as a haven to escape Covid-19 in the United States.

It’s simply divine. It’s another world, evidenced by the free flowing neutral-toned linens and long unbrushed hair of its residents, the little tots roaming free, beach side flame throwers and kombie vans aplenty. There’s no real rules, or so it feels, and tourists and town-dwellers alike seem to dance to the beat of their own drum. Not even figuratively in many cases. It’s also the first place in Australia to see in the New Year, with the lighthouse sitting on the most eastern tip of the continent.

Naturally I needed to revisit Byron (a few times) to include the best of this wonderful place in a post. If you’ve got a spare 1-2 days, I’d definitely not miss the delightfully quaint town of Newrybar, which I have written about separately (see here) but could easily be included in a weekend trip to Byron Bay.

This 3 day itinerary is quite jam-packed with quintessentials but to keep it more relaxed I’d suggest planning for a 4 or 5 day mini break. Byron Bay is a carefree, non-hurried community and it’s best to enjoy the town in the same way the locals do! With a myriad of food options and activities, here are the best of the bunch in my book.

Quick Links:

Where is Byron Bay?
Logistics
Accommodation

The Cape Byron walking track at Little Wategos Beach, with the most easterly tip of mainland Australia in the background

At the top of the Cape Byron Walking Track

Itinerary

Extra Day

Newrybar township:
Harvest cafe
Boutique clothes & homewares shopping

But first, where is Byron Bay?

Byron Bay is located on mainland Australia’s most easterly point in the state of New South Wales. It is 772 km north of Sydney, 165 km south of Brisbane and 67 km south of Coolangatta, the southern tip of the Gold Coast in Queensland.

Position of Byron Bay at the northern tip of NSW

Logistics

The closest airport to Byron Bay is Ballina, a 30 minute drive away. Alternatively you can fly to the Gold Coast (Coolangatta) airport and this is approximately an hour drive away. From Brisbane airport, drive time is roughly 2 – 2.5 hours.

It’s worth hiring a car for a trip to Byron as this will allow greater flexibility between sites. Being a small and relatively rural town, public transport is less reliable. You’ll still find taxis and ubers operating here, however, and there is a shuttle service (at a cost) from the airport to the township of Byron Bay.

Accommodation

In keeping with its small town vibe, Byron is not a high rise hotel haven. It’s full of Air BnB homes, motels, boutique hotels and decorated caravans for hire. However, don’t be fooled into thinking a night in a caravan is a cheap option: savvy business owners have cottoned on to the lure of Byron Bay and charge more than most hotel rooms for a night in a luxury caravan! If you have the benefit of wheels (which is virtually a must if you fly in to Ballina), then personally I would suggest either a beach front hotel/AirBnB or one that is a few minutes out of town in the gorgeous hinterland region. Many of these have sweeping views over the Pacific Ocean with forest views. Note that in Byron Bay, it’s more cost effective to book with hotels directly and many offer a discount on their website for doing so.

For mid range, comfortable options with luxury touches, have a look at:

Byron Cove Beach House
Aloha Byron Bay
The Crest Apartments Byron Bay
The Atlantic
The Lord Byron Hotel

For higher end luxury resort stays, see:

Raes on Wategos
Byron at Byron
Elements of Byron
28 Degrees

I stayed at Byron Cove Beach House and found this to be a pleasant boutique hotel on the outskirts of the township (best to have a car or plan to use Uber although can be accessed by a 10 minute walk). Staff were very friendly and with only a handful of rooms, the attention to detail was evident. Rooms were large and with comfortable king beds, modern beach-themed interiors with wooden floorboards and a large straw mat. The mobile coverage and wifi was a little patchy but I suspect this was due to the location. The bathroom was clean and the minibar was well stocked!

Friday

Brunch: 3 Blue Ducks, The Farm

A staple for tourists and locals alike, one might say you haven’t completely experienced Byron Bay without stopping at The Farm. You’ll likely bump shoulders with celebrities and are guaranteed great food that is sustainably produced and exquisitely prepared! The story of Tom & Emma’s farm which originated from a vision of seeing their daughter sitting on a veggie patch, has grown into one of the most popular and successful food enterprises in the Northern Rivers region of NSW. Be sure to make a booking online as this place fills up quickly!

The Farm includes a restaurant (3 Blue Ducks), farm animals in their paddocks (poultry, pigs and cattle), The Bread Social bakery, a local produce store, the Growers Collective market garden, Baylato gelato, a garden shed nursery, horseback tours and even a private Beach House venue for hire!

Afternoon: Clarkes Beach

It’s time to relax and unwind after a sumptuous meal. Clarkes Beach is located between Main Beach and the surfing mecca ‘the Pass’. It is wide and open, with room for a game of beach cricket or sandcastle competition or simply throwing down the towel for some (sun smart) sun bathing. The water glistens with a thousand stars on bright days.

Lunch: The Pass Cafe

You’ll find this quaint, white building tucked up inside the forest with its wide decking overlooking the iconic Pass Beach and surf break. With options catering to all food preferences/tolerances, you can’t go wrong at this restaurant close by the beach.

Next, spend the afternoon relaxing beachside until it’s time to get home and refresh for the evening!

Idyllic forest location of The Pass Cafe, overlooking the iconic Pass surf break

Evening warmup: Balcony Bar & Oyster Co.

Vibing. Loud. Busy. Fun. This Byron Bay icon is on the main roundabout in town where Jonson and Lawson Streets intersect. It’s the two story weatherboard joint you’ll probably have passed a dozen times during your stay so far!

With a comprehensive wine list, unique cocktails (I recommend the Ginny Hendrick’s!) and of course, fresh Australian oysters (we had the Sydney Rock and Coffin Bay varieties) you could easily spend the evening here! However, if you’re moving on for the fine dining dinner option at St Elmo, then perhaps stick with a side of cauliflower popcorn or small tacos to share.

Dinner: St Elmo Dining Room & Bar

This fine dining experience is a long standing favourite in Byron Bay. In addition to modern Spanish tapas plates to share, they also have an impressive wine list with over 15 wines available by the glass and over 100 bottles to choose from. The atmosphere in the evening is intimate and modern and makes for a great date location.

After dinner drinks: Loft

Loft is found in the centre of town and has charming relaxed interiors: a great way to end your evening!

Saturday

Breakfast: Folk

Folk is on Ewingsdale Road, between the highway (M1) and the Byron Bay township. It’s tucked in off the road in a forest setting, with options to sit outside under the foliage, or inside at the wooden tables surrounded by green hanging pot plants.

I ordered the ‘weekend special’ which included home made pumpkin falafel with hummus and toasted seeds, pickles, sauerkraut, greens and tabouleh. It was one of the most colourful dishes I’ve ever ordered! Paired with an extra hot soy latte and a curious Magpie who was foraging near my feet at the outside wooden table, this was a meal made in heaven!

Note that if coming for lunch, Folk closes at 2.30pm.

Cape Byron Walking Track

Allow two hours to properly experience the beautiful parts of this 3.7 km looped walking track. You’ll encounter rainforest, beach, grassland and clifftops en route to the lighthouse which sits on Australia’s most eastern point.

Keep an eye out for turtles, dolphins, stingrays and the famous whales. The track curtails into smaller walking tracks at various points along the way if it becomes too taxing for the mobility impaired.

A map of the walking options along the Cape Byron Walking Track

Notably you’ll walk past the eastern most point of mainland Australia which is down a few steep steps from the lighthouse. One of my favourite points is the headland on Little Wategos Beach. It leaves one with the feeling that you’re on the edge of the world. The wispy grasses along the mountain ridge and lower hills are akin to some of those in Ireland.

Pro Tip!
If you’re short on time or struggle with long walks, the easiest way to reach the eastern most tip of Australia is by parking at the top by the lighthouse ($8 at the time of writing) and descending the stairs at the far corner of the lighthouse platform to the designated point.
NB: the lighthouse is not situated on the exact eastern most point.

Byron Bay Lighthouse

The piece de resistance of any Byron Bay panorama is this striking white tower built at the turn of the 19th century which protected ships passing along the coast. Atop a rocky headland on a sheer cliff face of height around 100 metres, this lighthouse was operated by resident keepers until 1989 and after this time has had an automated light that is visible in the evenings from the Byron Bay township.

It’s possible to drive to the lighthouse but be aware that parking costs $8 per vehicle and be sure to check the Cape Byron State Conservation Area website to confirm park opening and closing hours.

Lunch: Raes on Wategos

Raes is a striking venue, with the appearance of a small white castle nestled in a clearing on a hill surrounded by rainforest. All this and it also has views over Wategos Beach! They accept bookings online and offer a separate vegan menu for those inclined. Food has a regional focus with a Mediterranean flair. They offer a 6 course tasting menu for $105 with paired wines for $75.

Raes on Wategos: a luxury restaurant or accommodation option

Wategos Beach

After a delicious lunch, it’s time to continue with the relaxing by getting those swimmers / bathers / togs / bikinis out!! Remember this is Australia so you’ll need to be sun smart and take some suncream and a hat. Main Beach and Clarkes Beach are closer to town whereas Wategos is more secluded and only a 20 minute walk away, also accessible by car. Obviously if you’ve just finished lunch at Raes (above), you’ll be a hop, step and jump from the water!

Byron Bay Brewery

Located in the backstreets of the town, this beer label is sold en masse around Australia with good reason. Despite its popularity, the brewery itself is hidden in a secluded part of Byron Bay within the Old Arts Factory and is a splendid site to enjoy live music (check the website for gig lineups) and a cheeky brew.

Dinner: Bang Bang

I spent my birthday here recently with some friends and I can’t speak more highly of its mysterious and dimly lit ambience and its Melbourne chefs who served up a hurricane of deliciousness! In the evenings this place is completely abuzz with the sounds of excited guests and the food is to die for!

We had the kingfish sashimi, prawn toast, salt and pepper tofu, sticky pork belly, pad thai, Bangkok fried rice, crispy master stock duck, sticky braised beef rib, fresh cucumber salad and Som Tum green papaya salad. All of this was neatly topped off with a dessert of chocolate and banana spring rolls! Their wine selection and cocktails are second to none. Don’t miss this place!

After dinner drinks: Mez Club

Step inside this Moroccan inspired bar and restaurant, complete with earthy tones, wicker lighting, high wooden stools and an upstairs section with benches covered in comfortable cushions underneath a thatched hut roof. Their cocktails are created by expert mixologists using artisan spirits and fresh ingredients.

Sunday

Brunch: Bayleaf

Bayleaf is a hive of activity and a long time local favourite. With a multi-level layout, there’s little nooks for all to enjoy. If you don’t have time to sit, then a selection of baked goods is available for takeaway. My pick of them all is the charred sweet potato flatbread, adorned with cauliflower puree, roast cherry tomatoes, beetroot, carrot and sautéed kale: both a visual and a gastronomical treat!

Byron Bay Shopping

There is some fabulous unique and boutique shopping to be done in this little town. Jonson Street is home to some well known Australian surfing brands and branches into Feros Arcade with one of my favourite homewares shops, Fok & Stuff, as well as a popular Mexican taqueria Chihuahua. You’ll find unique boutique clothing stores on many of the roads in the town centre and outskirts: don’t be afraid to explore away from the main streets!

Other stores selling local craftmanship and home grown Aussie labels are Habitat, Hope & May and We Are Pampa.

Main Beach

Time to experience the iconic Byron Bay Main Beach. Head on over to enjoy the live musical and busking acts on the hill underneath the tall pine trees or grab your surfboard and hit the waves, or just soak in the sun, sand and salty water.

Lunch: Stone & Wood Brewery

This upbeat brewery is open daily, with weekend times currently midday – 6pm. There’s no better place to spend a Sunday afternoon with mates than in this industrial brewing shed seated at the solid timber tables amongst the beer vats. You can’t go past their 5-beer tasting paddle with your pick from a large selection of beers and a couple of ciders.

A simple canteen menu will keep you well fed with options such as:

Pulled pork burger with slaw and chips
Warm cauliflower and kale salad with labneh and wild rice
Thai red curry with roast lamb potato
Crispy tofu
Potato scallops with miso mayo
Karaage Chicken with Kewpie mayo and pickles
Local cheeses and meats board with fresh sourdough

Cape Byron Distillery

We stumbled upon Cape Byron Distillery quite per chance and what a lovely discovery it was. Nestled in the Byron Hinterland forest, visits are by appointment only. That being said, we had rolled into the front gates on the long winding driveway when we called and asked if they could accommodate us. The answer was yes and I suspect this hospitality is the norm.

The distillery has a rustic and charming interior and a back deck which overlooks their forest and tree plantation. Cape Byron Distillery offers 90 minute guided tours where guests are taken on a 30 minute walk through the rainforest learning about the different trees and occasional wildlife spotting, followed by a 60 minute tasting session on the back deck.

Apart from the incredible gins on offer, quite possibly my favourite part of the afternoon was enjoying sitting at their solid single-slab huge wooden table. I tried the bespoke Byron Negroni, a smooth mix made from the Brookie’s Byron Slow Gin, Brookie’s Byron Dry Gin and Adelaide Hills Distillery Bitter Orange (special shout out to my home city of Adelaide).

Dinner: Beach Hotel or Fishheads

With this weekend itinerary sadly drawing to a close, there’s one last epic place to cross off of your bucket list: the Beach Hotel. It’s sweeping decks and live gigs will have have you swaying in complete holiday mode as you look out over the glistening Pacific Ocean at Main Beach. Alternatively, across the road is Fishheads, serving fresh seafood in a relaxed contemporary location, also by Main Beach.