Sprightly, sullen & scarred: Sarajevo, a city with a conflicted past
Overview
In early primary school, I read No Gun for Asmir by Christobel Mattingley, an author born in my home state of South Australia. It depicts the impact of the fall of communism and dissolution of Yugoslavia in a war torn Sarajevo on a Bosnian family, from the eyes of young boy. He is torn from his father and home and becomes a refugee. It’s a beautifully written story of courage.
Evidence of the war that ‘ended’ in 1992 abounds in current day Sarajevo. From the pock holes of bullet riddled buildings to the sullen faces of the locals who are willing to share their experience, the story of Sarajevo is a compelling one.
Despite being a young girl myself when all this was happening, it is perfectly safe to visit Sarajevo now. More than that, I’d highly recommend it. The effects of the most recent wars are tangible and you’ll have no choice but to digest it and be cognisant of what happened here.
If you only have one day, I’d highly recommend a tour guide to show you around but a self guided trip is achievable with a little preplanning. It’s also possible to take an organised day trip from Sarajevo’s sister city, Dubvronik, which is 270km away but please note that this is a long day of driving with the distance covered in approximately 4 hours, one way.
R: View of Jajce Barracks above Sarajevo (top left) and the White Fortress (top right) from Latin Bridge over the Miljacka River
Below: Bullet holes in Sarajevo city buildings
Essentials
All of these sites are achievable in one day at a decent pace. It looks daunting but if you stick to the order listed below, you should get through all of them easily enough, with plenty of time at the end for a refreshing Sarajevsko, a pale lager style beer, to toast a remarkable city. Obviously this is a much less frantic itinerary if spread across two days.
Click on the hyperlink for information and photos on each.
City Market Place
Cathedral of Sacred Jesus’ Heart
Sarajevo Roses
Hotel Europe
Meeting of Cultures
Ottoman influence
> The Grand Bazaar – Gazi Huzrev Bey’s Bezistan
> Sebilj Fountain
> Turkish centre – Baščaršija Square
> Gazi Husrev Bey’s Mosque
> Begova (“Goldsmiths”) Street
Caravan Saray – Morića Han
Jewish Synagogue
Old Orthodox Church
Kazandžiluk – “Copper Street”; oldest street in Sarajevo
Sarajevo City Hall
Assassination site of Franz Ferdinand, antecedent event to WWI
Latin bridge
Sarajevo Cable Car – views over the city from Mount Trebević
Sarajevo Brewery
A (very) brief history…
At the height of the Ottoman empire, Sarajevo was the biggest and most important city second only to Istanbul itself. During the Austro-Ottoman war at the end of the Ottoman era, Sarajevo was decimated by raids and fires with little remaining but the stone buildings.
During the centuries that ensued, Sarajevo rebuilt but subsequently underwent many attacks and numerous changes in power, including rule by the Austrian Habsburg family.
The beginning of World War 1 is believed to have been sparked by the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife, Sophie, Duchess of Hohenberg, on 28 June 1914 during their visit to the city by a young Serb nationalist Gavrilo Princip.
At the end of the Great War and with the event of the 1919 Paris Peace Conference, Austria-Hungary ceased to exist and Sarajevo became part of the new Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Amidst another tumultous few decades including WWII, their crowning moment was in 1984 when they hosted what is widely regarded as the most successful Winter Olympic Games ever.
In the early 1990s after establishing independence as the capital of Bosnia & Herzegovina, Sarajevo was held in the longest seige in modern history by Serbia: 3 years of no electricity, heating, water and medical supplies.
Set in a valley surrounded by mountains, Sarajevo was a sitting duck for the Serbian forces who ambushed them from their higher vantage points in the mountains. It is estimated they were shelled approximately 329 times per day during this period, with the record coming on 22 July 1993: a grand total of 3777 shell impacts. With no way in or out of the city, the only way the people survived is said to be due to a secret underground tunnel linked to the airport, where they received food and supplies. Even then, the risk in using the tunnel was great.
R: Alifakovac Cemetery
In current times, Sarajevo is the political, financial, social and cultural center of Bosnia and Herzegovina and a prominent center of culture in the Balkans, contributing to entertainment, media, fashion and arts in the region. It’s a popular ski resort destination for those fortunate enough.
City Market Place
The open city market (Pijaca Markale) is a hive of people buying fresh vegetables, fruits and produce and has been operational for over a century.
Cathedral of Sacred Jesus’ Heart
Built in 1889, The Cathedral of Jesus’ Sacred Heart was built in 1889 is the seat of the Archdiocese of Vrhbosna. Its Neo-Gothic design was inspired by both the Notre Dame Cathedral in France and St. Teyn Cathedral in Prague and the interior is richly decorated with frescoes painted by the famous Italian-German, Alexander Maximilian Seitz. Situated in a beautiful central part of the city, the Turkish bath (Gazi Husrev Bey’s Hamam) is in the background and a statue of Pope John Paul II sits in the foreground, after his visit to Sarajevo in 1997 to send a message of peace soon after the war had ended. The Sarajevo Roses also lie in the square on which the Cathedral sits.
Sarajevo Roses
A horrifying display of the grenade marks that struck the asphalt between 1992 – 1995 that left a characteristic pattern, these ‘roses’ have been filled with red resin as a tribute and memorial to those who were killed during one of the most tragic episodes in the city’s history.
Hotel Europe
This modern, luxury hotel is located at the entrance to Baščaršija (the old city centre) and sits exactly where East meets West in Sarajevo. Offering the finest original sweet specialties at Mozart’s Patisserie, a famous Viennese Cafe and international restaurant, Hotel Europe is the oldest in Sarajevo and was built in 1882. It’s impossible to miss on a walking tour of the city and provides a practical and luxurious stay in the city centre, close to all of the major tourist attractions.
Hotel Holiday Inn
Hotel Holiday Inn is of modern historical importance and architecturally cuts a striking image as a prominent yellow building in the city centre. Originally built as a glitzy hotel in preparation for the 1984 Winter Olympics, it later became the ground zero of the 1990 siege of Sarajevo and the fortress for the world’s media covering the conflict. Nowadays the Olympic lobby displays paraphernalia of the Games and Bosnian history, as well as a sizeable array of shops such as hairdressers, boutiques, cash exchange and salons.
Meeting of Cultures “East meets West”
The “Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures” monument is a striking message displayed as an actual ‘line in the sand’ inlaid in stone on Ferhadija Street. This is the spot where two dominant cultures that radically shaped current day Sarajevo merge. If one steps to the ‘east’ of this memorial, you will encounter the origins of the Ottoman and Islamic culture within the sites of Gazi Husrev Bey’s bezistan, Slatko Ćoše (Sweet Corner), Sarači Street and Baščaršija square. Step to the west, symbolic of the Austro-Hungarian Christian period and one encounters buildings such as churches and cathedrals reflective of this era.
The Grand Bazaar – Gazi Husrev Bey’s Bezistan
Built around 1540, the Grand Bazaar spans a long street, with its eastern side being undercover (Gazi Husrev Bey’s Bezistan), where silk, leather, cotton and textiles were once sold. Nowadays there are a variety of leather bags, sunglasses, fridge magnets, tourist items and official merchandise for Football Club Sarajevo to be found.
Sebilj Fountain
Once upon a time there were hundreds of sebiljs in Sarajevo but sadly only one remains: that in Baščaršija Square. The origin of these kiosk shaped public fountains can be traced back to the Arabian Peninsula and the tradition was brought to Bosnia and Herzegovina by the Ottomans. Workers (sebiljdžija) who received wages from the state or a vakuf (endowment), manned the kiosks and dispensed free water to hungry passersby.
This last sebilj dates back to the Austro-Hungarian period but was installed in 1913. The original one was located several meters away but was destroyed during one of Sarajevo’s fires.
Baščaršija Square
The original Middle Ages trading area called Stara Varoš was believed to be the precursor to today’s Baščaršija, which had its foundations from around 1460. In Turkish, the name “Baščaršija” (baş = top or main, and çar şu = crossroads or trading center) indicated that it was the main trading square.
Isa Bey owned the first inn and shops built here but it was Gazi Husrev Bey who initiated the building of facilities such as a mosque, library, bath, covered bazaar, public kitchen and many more shops between 1521 and 1541 that saw the development of trades and up to 46 separate bazaars in the region. During it’s most prominent era, Baščaršija was Sarajevo’s economic centre and the largest trading hub in the Balkans, with around 12,000 shops involving merchants from Florence, Venice and Dubrovnik.
Despite many attempts over the years to destroy Baščaršija, it still stands strong as a much sought after place to purchase traditional handocrafts and souvenirs and to enjoy local culinary delights.
Home to many city icons and buildings, the best description of Baščaršija I heard from my tour guide: “It is not just a national monument but the cultural and historical nucleus of Sarajevo”.
Gazi Husrev Bey’s Mosque
Locally known as Bey’s Mosque and built in the centre of Baščaršija in 1530, this structure was built as part of a vakuf (endowment) established by the Ottomon Governor, Gazi Husrev Bey who governed Bosnia between 1521 and 1541. It is renowned as the most important architectural monument from the time of Ottoman rule in Bosnia and Heregovina. Many significant Bosnian leaders are buried in the courtyard.
Begova Street – “Goldsmiths Street”
Also known as Zlatarska (Goldsmiths St), one can find a variety of goldsmith and jewelry shops here. Half way down the street is the popular Slatko Ćoše (Sweet Corner), where two popular sweet shops reside: Ferhadija and Sarači.
Caravan Saray – Morića Han
Morića Han is Sarajevo’s only remaining caravanserai, a place where merchant caravans could find accommodation during the Ottoman period. The inn was built in the heart of Baščaršija between the 16th and 17th centuries and could sleep 300 travellers (upstairs) and 70 horses (downstairs). There was also a coffee house where the Sarajevo elite and artisans would gather.
Nowadays, Morića Han is home to a few cafés and shops selling Bosnian food and crafts on the ground floor and entry is open to all, including to the upstairs sleeping rooms.
Jewish Synagogue
Built in 1902, the Aškenazi Synagogue was built for Jews who began to arrive in greater numbers once Bosnia and Herzigovina was occupied by the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is believed to be based on the synagogue design in Budapest and even though there were a high number of Sarajevo Jews lost in WWII, the synagogue remained the only active Jewish temple in the city.
Old Orthodox Church
Dedicated to Archangels Michael and Gabriel, the Old Orthodox Church is one of Sarajevo’s oldest houses of worship. It is believed to have been built in the 16th century with an older church once standing on the same spot. Burned many times throughout history, it has always been rebuilt with the last reconstruction in 1726. It houses an Orthodox museum that was founded in 1889 and is considered one of the most important in the world due to the rare manuscripts it holds including the famous codex and the Sarajevo Edict of 1307.
Kazandžiluk: Coppersmith Street / the oldest street in Sarajevo
A small street called Kazandžiluk lies close to the Sebilj on Baščaršija. This is the famous street of coppersmiths, busy tradesmen who are masters of the old craft which arrived in Bosnia & Herzegovina with the Ottomans.
This unique and traditional trade was passed down in generational lines and some of the families exist today, ready to sell visitors a special copper piece as a memory of your time in Sarajevo.
Vijećnica: Sarajevo City Hall
Vijećnica is a building with a history and is the most extravagant building constructed in Sarajevo during Austro-Hungarian rule. It has featured as an iconic in many depictions of the city in worldwide press and media. It was used as the national library of Bosnia & Herzegovina after WWII but was set ablaze during the Siege of Sarajevo on 25-26 August 1992 and 90% of the library’s collection went up in flames. Reconstruction began in 1996 and Vijećnica was reopened on 9 May 2014, a victory over the tragedy of events past.
Assassination site of Franz Ferdinand
The shots fired by Gavrilo Princip that killed Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie on 28 June 1914 are believed to have sparked a chain of events leading to the start of WWI. Franz was heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne and was in Sarajevo to observe military exercises, staying at Hotel Bosna (now Hoteli Ilidža). The first assassination attempt was avoided as Franz and his procession were en route to City Hall. Franz shielded his wife with his hand and a bomb was deflected that landed on the retracted portion of the roof, rolled off and exploded under one of the other cars in his procession.
The successful attempt came moments later when the driver accidentally turned sharply onto Franz Joseph Street (now Zelenih Beretki Street) and then attempted to reverse the car back on to Appel Quay. The assassin was waiting on the corner. Two shots at close range killed both Franz and Sophie.
The street now has a memorial car and lifesize depiction of Franz in the car and there is a museum displaying Sarajevo history during Austro-Hungarian rule adjacent this.
Latin Bridge
A short walk from the Franz Ferdinand assassination site, is the Latin Bridge.
A ledger from 1541 reveals that on this site was once a wooden bridge built by a leather worker named Husein, which was destroyed and replaced by a stone bridge built by Ali Ajni Bey, a prominent Sarajevan. This was then washed away by a great flood in 1791 but in 1798 a wealthy trader, Abdulah Briga, funded the construction of the current day bridge across Miljacka River.
From 1918 to 1993 the bridge was called Principov Most after Gavrilo Princip, who stood only a few metres from the bridge when he performed the Sarajevo Assassination mentioned above.
Sarajevo Cable Car up Mount Trebević
The Sarajevo Cable Car was no exception to the devastation and destruction experience in the early 1990s war. Operational from 3 May 1959 and connecting Bistrik, on the left side of the Miljacka River to Mount Trebević, the 2100m long system was destroyed early on in the war in 1992.
Reopening in April 2018, the new cable car system has 33 gondolas, each capable of holding up to 10 passengers on an 8 minute ride to the top. Tourist prices are higher than for locals, with a return ticket costing 20 KM. All cabins are pet-friendly!
At the top are incredible sweeping panoramic views of Sarajevo so get those cameras ready! A variety of walks are also available, including to the Olympic bobsled track.
Sarajevo Brewery
After a busy day of exploring, it’s time for a brew or two!
Founded in 1864, the Sarajevo Brewery is the oldest in Bosnia & Herzegovina and is the only brewery that remained operational during the Ottoman Empire, Austro-Hungarian rule and also during the war of 1992 – 1995.
On site you will find a museum, restaurant, shop and factory tour options.
Alternatively, we found ourselves at Cafe Pub Gondola, perfect for a brew in the sunshine.
