Vintage Vienna in One Week
Overview
The romantic city of Vienna is almost impossible to fully explore in one year, let alone in one week. However, keep reading for a comprehensive list of my all time favourite things to do in the intriguing capital city of Austria! Sitting pretty adjacent the Danube River, its artistic and intellectual legacies were shaped by famous residents such as Mozart, Beethoven, Klimt and Sigmund Freud. With a plethora of imperial palaces, museums and art heroes, you’ll find both historic and contemporary works at every corner.
My introduction to Vienna …
On arrival to my accommodation in Vienna, I opened the large french windows of my level 5 apartment to the sounds of classical music drifting through. On the walls of the apartment were contemporary art pieces. Through the open window my gaze landed upon a small open town square below, showcasing the ornately decorated neoclassical Church of St George. To the left was a small beer tavern, where a steady hum emanated from its dimly lit interior. It was a most fitting entry to this surprising city, with my first moments being filled with music and contemporary art, shaping what was just the beginning of my exposure to the rich tapestry of experiences awaiting in Vienna.
Accommodation
The great thing about Vienna is that most of the ‘must sees’ are located within the heart of the city, so basing your accommodation somewhere near a subway station is a great start. I went with a modern-styled AirBnB apartment which was much more spacious and less expensive than a hotel room. It was situated a short walk from the Schwedenplatz subway station and right on the Donaukanal (“Danube Canal”).
Transport
Despite doing most of my exploring by foot, the Vienna Subway system is excellent: easy to use and very quick. I also used the tram system which was equally efficient. On the rare occasion when out of the city centre, taxis are available also.
Currency
The official currency of Austria is the Euro, €.
Vienna Pass
I found that the Vienna Pass was well worth it. This is an all-inclusive sightseeing card that gives free admission to many notable buildings and attractions, skip-the-line entry, unlimited hop-on hop-off bus rides, and other discounts. Visitors can choose from 1, 2, 3 or 6 day passes.
If you have more time in Central Europe to explore, then why not check out the amazing countries of Slovenia, Czech Republic, Croatia or Bosnia & Herzegovina!
Itinerary
Day 1
Try a famous breakfast sausage from a street vendor
Walk around the beautiful inner city streets
Admire the huge Stephansplatz & St Stephen’s Cathedral
Eat a healthy organic lunch at Miznon Cafe
Take a guided tour through the Vienna City Hall (Rathaus)
Enjoy coffee and cake to a live pianist at the iconic Cafe Central
Day 2
Take the grand tour of the impressive Schonbrunn Palace & Orangery Garden
Have a traditional Viennese dinner at the underground Zwolf Apostelkeller
Day 3
Book a ticket in advance for the popular Spanish Riding School
Admire the Hofburg Palace
Visit Heldenplatz
People watch in the huge Museumsquartier
Gaze in awe at famous artworks within the Kunsthistorisches Museum
Enjoy Vienna’s largest and most delicious Wiener schnitzel at Figlmüller Restaurant
Day 4
Visit one of the most beautiful libraries in the world: the Austrian National Library
Enjoy a morning tea pastry from the iconic Demel Bakery
Spend the afternoon shopping along Graben (main high street)
Observe the Wiener Pestsäuler monument (Memorial column for plague victims)
Splash out for sashimi and champagne at the popular Julius Meinl am Graben for dinner
Groove to some live music in the evening
Day 5
Walk along the city canal (Donaukanal)
See the multi-coloured Hundertwasser House and Village
Visit the Kunst Haus Museum and Hundertwasser artworks
Splash out on sunset dinner and drinks (and amazing photography of the city) at the top of Sofitel Hotel
Day 6
Admire Klimt’s ‘The Kiss’ at Belvedere Palace
Explore Vienna Stadtpark and the golden Strauss statue
Entice your aural senses at Vienna State Opera
Enjoy a late dinner at the classic Lindenkeller restaurant
Day 7
Go hunting through back streets for the incredible Last Supper Fresco at Minoritenkirche
Visit the artsy and photogenic Palmenhaus for lunch
Pay a visit to the ancient Jewish cemetery
Cool down with an afternoon icecream at Zanoni & Zanoni
Day 1
Try a famous breakfast sausage from a street vendor – ‘Würstelstand’
You can’t go past a selection of hot sausages (Wieners or weenies) from a street vendor, complete with rye bread for €3.90! In fact, these street sausage stands (Würstelstand) are iconic in the city of Vienna and found on virtually every street corner. They represent a street food culture that dates back to 17th century. During and after the First World War, the Viennese municipality granted fixed street stalls to disabled war veterans to earn an income. Nowadays, you’ll find locals arguing over which is their favourite Würstelstand, whether Vienna sausages are superior to Frankfurters, what sauce should be used (usually mustard or horseradish) and whether it tastes better wrapped in dark sourdough or a white bread roll (Semmel).
Personally, my favourite was from Zum Goldenen Würstel, located in the middle of the bustling city on Spiegelgasse, just off of Graben. If you’re a fan of pickles, you’ll love the choice of traditional gherkins and green hot peppers available at this popular sausage stand.
Walk around the beautiful inner city streets
The entire inner city is a sight to behold, with wide open plazas interspersed with narrow lanes full of quaint shops, food vendors and underground restaurants and bars. If you walk to and from the places in this itinerary, you’ll naturally become acquainted with its stunning beauty, as well as the more grungy and hidden parts of town. Along the way, stop to take in the many other delights such as horse-drawn carriages, interesting water features and extraordinary architecture.
Admire the huge Stephansplatz & St Stephen’s Cathedral
Located in the geographical centre of Vienna, Stephansplatz is a square named after its most prominent building, St Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom). This cathedral is one of the tallest churches in the world. The outskirts of the square are lined with popular cafes and tourist stores.
Don’t miss the striking multicoloured tiled roof of Stephansdom Cathedral: one of Vienna’s most iconic symbols!
Eat a healthy organic lunch at Miznon Cafe
Located just behind St Stephen’s Cathedral is this modern cafe with an Israeli focus. The atmosphere is alive with young people enjoying lunch while open windows beckon to the activity on the streets. At Miznon you’ll find a daily changing menu based on fresh seasonal produce however the staple special pita bread is constant. Whether you’re ready for a hearty meal or something riproaringly healthy, this is the place! I managed a whole roast cauliflower when visiting – it was the dish of the day!
Take a guided tour through the Vienna City Hall (Rathaus)
Vienna City Hall is the seat of local government of Vienna, located on Rathausplatz in the Innere Stadt district. It’s built in a Neo-Gothic style architecture and faces Rathauspark, a wide open park used for events and festivals.
Enjoy coffee and cake to a live pianist at the iconic Cafe Central
If you’re a fan of the ‘gram, you’ll likely have come across this beautiful building and even more opulent interior somewhere along your Vienna research. This traditional Viennese cafe is located within the previous Bank and Stockmarket building of Vienna, and today guests can expect to join a significant queue to enter. The selection of delicacies, both sweet and savoury, is tantalising. I went with a traditional ‘cake and coffee’: Apple strudel and & Wiener malange.
Day 2
Take the grand tour of Schonbrunn Palace & the Orangery Garden
Schönbrunn Palace was the main summer residence of the Habsburg rulers, located in Hietzing, Vienna. You’ll need the better part of a day to completely explore these sprawling grounds and the impressive artefacts and artworks within. These Baroque complexes are one of the most popular attractions in Vienna and give guests a glimpse into daily life for Austria’s imperial family. Don’t miss the beautiful Orangery Garden and allow some time to stroll through the expansive gardens of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Have a traditional Viennese dinner at the underground Zwolf Apostelkeller
This restaurant was recommended to me by a close friend who lived in Vienna for many years. What an absolute surprise and delight! From the moment I entered down its steps, this ancient cellar venue packed a real punch. The lively music, hum of upbeat conversation and candle light dancing across the tables, combined with staff breaking out into song at unexpected moments was more than I could ever have expected.
Zwolf Apostelkeller prepares classic Viennese fare and has an extensive wine list to match. Don’t go past their specialty: Fiakergulasch with sausage, sauerkraut and potato dumplings! To pair, consider their white wine varietal Gemischter Satz. You also can’t leave this friendly joint without finishing off with shredded pancakes (Kaiserschmarren) with plum jam and naturally, a small schnapps with coffee apertiv to conclude the eve!
Day 3
Book a ticket in advance for the popular Spanish Riding School
Attention all horse lovers! Don’t miss out on equine excitement in the magnificent baroque winter riding school built in the Hofburg. This Austrian institution delivers world-famous performances and classical dressage of Lipizzaner stallions who have been trained over many years by their riders. Performances are set to classical Viennese music and are from 10-11am daily. Queues are infinitesimally long, so be sure to arrive early and book your seat at least one day in advance!
Admire The Hofburg Palace
The grandiose architecture and sheer size of The Hofburg makes it difficult to miss in Vienna. Located in the city centre, it was built in the 13th century as the principal imperial palace (winter residence) of the Habsburg dynasty. Today it is the official residence and workplace of the Austrian president. Adorned with intricate statues, it’s one of the most impressive buildings on offer.
Visit Heldenplatz
Outside Hofburg Palace you’ll find a huge green public space. This is Heldenplatz (‘Heroes’ Square’). Many important actions and events have taken place here, most notably Adolf Hitler’s ceremonial announcement of the annexation of Austria to Nazi Germany on 15 March 1938. Heldenplatz connects to two other green parks in one giant space: Volksgarten and Burggarten, the latter housing a historic statue memorialising Mozart.
People watch in the huge Museumsquartier
Simply cross the Ringstraße road and you will find yourself in another supremely beautiful outdoor space: Maria Theresien Platz. On one side of the plaza is the Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History) of Vienna and on the other side is the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Art History). These two museums are almost a mirror image of each other, except for the statues on their facades. The Naturhistorisches’ façade has statues depicting personifications of Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Americas. The Kunsthistorisches façade features famous European artists. Combined, these make up the imposing and impressive Museumsquartier.
The square is alive with street performers, musicians and people enjoying a rest on a free park bench, or even on the plush grass. At its centre is a large statue depicting Empress Maria Theresa. I’d recommend taking a breath, having a seat and soaking up all of the fascinating antics occurring on the square.
Gaze in awe at famous artworks within the Kunsthistorisches Museum
If there is one thing the city is not short of, it’s museums. Vienna delivers them in style! The Kunsthistorisches Museum is famous the world over and with good reason. It’s the largest fine arts museum in Austria and its interior is lavishly decorated with marble, stucco and gold-leaf ornaments and murals. You won’t find a single visitor who doesn’t pause on the grand stairway in awe, which displays paintings by Gustav Klimt, Ernst Klimt, Franz Matsch, Hans Makart and Mihály Munkácsy.
The museum houses the works of many well known artists, as well as Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities and coin collections.
Mid: an artistic narrative of the female lifecycle
Lower: Christ and the Disciples in Emmaus by Follower of Carravagio; The Centaur Chiron teaches the young Achilles archery by Giuseppe Maria Crespi
My personal favourites were amongst some of the well known pieces:
- The Art of Painting, Johannes Vermeer
- The Tower of Babel, Pieter Brueghel the Elder
- Self Portrait, Rembrandt
Enjoy Vienna’s largest Wiener schnitzel at Figlmüller Restaurant
A quick Google search will inundate your computer screen with countless writers who have scoured the city high and low to bring you a list of the very best schnitzels in Vienna. On most of these lists, you’ll find Figlmüller, a quaint venue just around the corner from St Stephen’s Cathedral, down a hidden alleyway.
Possibly even greater than holding the rights to the title of ‘best wiener’ in Vienna, are those to ‘best schnitzel’. At Figlmüller, get ready to indulge in a schnitzel that is bigger than the plate it is served upon!
This charming restaurant serves up over 200,000 schnitzels per year and its family name, tradition and scrumptious pork schnitzels have earnt it a reputation of being the best of the best. It also came at the recommendation of my friend who had spent years in Vienna and I was not disappointed. When I arrived at lunch time with no booking, there was a short line but the staff were friendly and quickly seated me in a beautiful spot on the top floor, looking down over the patrons seated below. I’d definitely recommend booking well ahead for evening sittings. The schnitzel was indeed larger than the plate but surprisingly not too oily or heavy. The meat is thin so as to spend minimal time in the fryer.
Note that traditional Wiener schnitzels are made from veal but the pork schnitzel at Figlmüller has become its own icon. Papa Figlmüller first began using pork a few decades ago when veal was difficult to come by.
What should I pair with my schnitzel?
It’s nigh impossible to resist a glass of homegrown wine when tucking in to such a flavoursome hearty meal and I couldn’t turn down an accompanying glass of Grüner Veltliner dry white.
Day 4
Visit one of the most beautiful libraries in the world: the Austrian National Library
Does the sight of books excite you? Are you a book worm who squirrels away the weekends reading? If so, you are going to LOVE the sheer magnitude and exquisite beauty of this incredible library. If not, you will appreciate that the interior of this building is one of the most incredulous sights ever to witness. With towering ceilings that display intricate art murals and book shelves with sliding ladders, this library is more beautiful than even Beauty & The Beast could fathom.
The Austrian National Library is the largest library in Austria, with more than 12 million items in its various collections. The library is located in the Neue Burg Wing of the Hofburg, in the centre of Vienna.
Enjoy a morning tea pastry from Demel Bakery
This iconic bakery whose history dates back to 1786, is now an upmarket boutique bakery serving specialties such as cream cakes, scones & strudels, all under a shady terrace. Once a hotspot among aristocrats and Vienna’s bourgeoisie, it is now a cafe enjoyed by all. The displays of delicious items are hot property to eager onlookers and the interior is invariably at capacity. Given my limited time I bought a takeaway vanilla cremeschnite and headed over to the nearby Starbucks for a pumpkin spice latte!
Spend the afternoon shopping along Graben (main high street)
The Graben is one of the most famous streets in Vienna’s first district, the city centre. It is a major hub of restaurants and shops, with two fountains and high buildings that line the street either side. It’s forever busy but a fun place to spend the afternoon!
Observe the Wiener Pestsäule monument (Memorial column for plague victims)
Along the Graben shopping street is the prominent Baroque Holy Trinity memorial for plague victims, a striking reminder of the Great Plague epidemic of 1679.
Splash out for sashimi and champagne at the popular Julius Meinl am Graben for dinner
Julius Meinl is an artisanal cooking store with a host of delectable treasures within! Why not pick up some quality gifts here: you’ll find everything from boutique jams to common pantry items to exclusive hampers. Well known for their exotic coffees, I couldn’t go past some fresh sashimi and champagne whilst people watching along The Graben through their floor to ceiling glass windows!
Groove to some live music in the evening
Classical music and jazz are at the ready in many clubs and restaurants in Vienna. Whether you’re alone or with company, it’s the perfect way to refresh and relax after a big day out!
Day 5
Walk along the city canal (Donaukanal)
The Donaukanal (Danube Canal) is a former branch of the river Danube, which has since been regulated as a water channel within Vienna. It is 17.3km long and provides an insight into ‘hipster Vienna’ with interesting street art and graffiti as one strolls along it.
See the multi-coloured Hundertwasser House and Village
Hundertwasser House is an incredible apartment building in the third district of Vienna. The expressionist landmark is one of the city’s most visited buildings and its variation of colours provides the backdrop for many visual artists. The building itself can not be entered (as real tenants live within), however at the quirky Hundertwasser Village nearby, visitors can experience a forest that sprouts from the roof and a narrow oriental-style bazaar inside.
Visit the Kunst Haus Museum and Hundertwasser artworks
The famous artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser was an Austrian visual artist and environmental activist. He opposed the notion of the ‘straight line’ and any standardisation, expressing this concept in his artwork and building design. The Kunst Haus Museum was designed by Hundertwasser, with wavy, undulating floors, bright colours and foliage aplenty. The museum in the Landstraße district houses the world’s only permanent exhibition of his works. An unevenly winding staircase guides visitors to the main exhibition on the upper floors. The use of colour and variations in materials had me constantly captivated by his work!
Make sure to stop for a coffee and quick bite in the romantic outdoor gardens.
Splash out on sunset dinner and drinks (and amazing photography of the city) at the top of SO/ Hotel
On the way back from the Kunst Haus Museum into the first district of Vienna, it’s worth crossing the bridge to discover the swanky SO/ Hotel.
Day 6
Admire ‘The Kiss’ at Belvedere Palace
It’s not often that one enters the stately grounds of a palace to visit an art museum but this is the case at the grandiose Belvedere complex. The Belvedere in fact refers to two Baroque palaces (Upper and Lower Belvedere), the Orangery and the Palace Stables. These are all set within intricately manicured Baroque gardens and you’ll want to allow some time to explore the gardens and grounds as well as the treasures within.
Indeed there are some wonderful delights awaiting inside! Featuring art works from the Middle Ages to the present day, including the world’s largest collection of Gustav Klimt paintings, as well as the periods of Viennese Biedermeier, Austrian Baroque, Vienna around 1900 and French Impressionism. Names at the Belvedere such as Monet, Manet, Van Gogh, Waldmüller and Rodin abound. Don’t forget to look up! The ceilings are just as impressive as the artworks themselves.
The jewel of the Belvedere is certainly ‘The Kiss’ by Gustav Klimt. This ethereal oil on canvas painting with gold leaf, silver and platinum, depicts a man and woman in a sensual embrace. The hushed silence and astounded faces of its viewers are not unlike those experiencing the Mona Lisa in the Louvre, Paris.
‘The Kiss’, glittering in gold and much larger than I expected, was a piece I will never forget.
Explore Vienna Stadtpark and the golden Strauss statue
One of the most photographed monuments in Vienna must surely be the gold plated bronze statue of Johann Strauss, atop the marble relief. The ‘City Park’ is a link between the city centre and the third district and pedestrians approaching from any side will find a different environment. From airy park meadows to hills to a contemporary steel sculpture to pure Viennese Art Nouveau: it’s all here!
Entice your aural senses at Vienna State Opera
The 1709 seat Vienna State Opera House performs over 50 operas and 20 ballets per season! The beautiful Renaissance Revival venue was the first major building on the Vienna Ring Road. Unfortunately I did not have time to visit but I have since been scalded for this decision! For many who have visited Vienna, this is a staple on the itinerary.
Enjoy a late dinner at the classic Lindenkeller restaurant
I discovered this traditional Viennese restaurant after returning home one evening to my nearby AirBnB. I was drawn in by the intriguing archway that faced onto the cobblestone street. Down a small arched walkway, I found Vienna’s oldest cellar restaurant: Lindenkeller. Existing since 1435, the Lindenkeller has served its local fare to the likes of Mozart, Beethoven, the romantic Schubert, Brahms Mahler and of course, Johannes Strauß!
The menu whips up favourites such as breaded pork cutlets, beef goulash with dumplings, original Tafelspitz (beef rump in broth with vegetables and potatoes) and veal cutlets. I had a craving for seafood, however, and went with their grilled salmon steak with spinach, parsley potatoes and hollandaise sauce. This was exquisitely paired with a glass of Welschriesling!
Day 7
Go hunting through back streets for the incredible Last Supper Fresco at Minoritenkirche
Veritably one of the most memorable yet simplistic of my journeys in Vienna was the day I set out to find the Last Supper Fresco. Through some less populated streets and within the small but beautiful Minoritenkirche lies this life-sized copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s famous work. ‘The Last Supper’ weighs approximately 20 tons and hangs on the church’s northern wall, a mosaic made by the Roman artist Giacomo Raffaelli. It was initially planned to be housed in Vienna’s Belvedere Museum but alas: it was too large! To clarify, there is nothing simplistic whatsoever about the mosaic itself but completely in the sheer no-fuss access to this masterpiece: merely step inside an almost empty church and walk across to it! No ticket booths, no hoards of tourists and no lines!
Visit the artsy and photogenic Palmenhaus for lunch
Have you ever dined in a greenhouse built for an Austrian emperor? Well now is your chance! Palmenhaus is a former tropical house with high ceilings and dazzling views of the Hofburg Palace royal gardens. Its extravagant steel and glass structure is home to magnificent flora, food and butterflies!
An al fresco dining option is also available, with the exquisite Burggarten patio providing unobscured views of the gardens. Expect to see a few selfies being taken in this upscale eatery where the menus change daily. I couldn’t go past the grilled trout with a glass of Gruner Veltliner.
Pay a visit to the ancient Jewish cemetery
Vienna’s oldest preserved Jewish cemetery is a jewel of art history. Restoration works have continued over many years and to date, 349 graves have been preserved. These include headstones dating back to the 16th century and is the place where many renowned members of the Jewish community of Vienna have been laid to rest.
Cool down with an afternoon icecream at Zanoni & Zanoni
This famous gelateria originated in 1971 by the Italian Zanoni family and serves up delicious icecream. I went with a mango and pistachio flavours, with a sneaky sampler of the raisin! It’s extraordinarily refreshing, day or night!
