A night out in Zagreb

If you’re staying centrally in the Lower Town and feeling adventurous, try out this itinerary for a super fun and varied evening! It’s got something for everyone: an underground university-type waterhole, classy cocktails at a prestigious hotel, live music in a rollicking bar and dimly lit nightcaps in an old-school apocathery institution.

We stayed at Sheraton Zagreb Hotel which was two blocks from the Lanuci Horseshoe (see my post on Zagreb: a bustling metropolis for more details) and perfectly located to walk to all of these places.

After a satisfying glass of the native Croatian red varietal Babić with dinner, it was off to explore…

First stop: Bacchus Jazz Bar

This place is super cute! Greeted outside by some vintage bicycles and entering under a sign in red neon writing, we walked down a small garden path past an outdoor terrace under the trees, as well as past some 20 somethings smoking cigarettes and drinking beer outside until we found the entrance. Descending some stairs, we found ourselves in an underground basement with rooms connected by white painted stone arches. Wooden benches were set close by one another in a cosy arrangement with simple decorative features. It was time for a glass of rose amongst the chit chat of other excited visitors!

Second stop: The Esplanade Hotel

Style. Class. Sophistication. It wasn’t long before realising that the elite of society were present in this historic luxury hotel. Built in 1925, it provided accommodation for passengers of the Orient Express train, en route from Paris to Istanbul. The hotel has played a significant part in Zagreb social life throughout the 20th century, hosting many famous names throughout the years such as Woody Alley, Queen Elizabeth II, Richard Nixon, Alfred Hitchcock, Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, Orson Welles, Cliff Richard, Mick Jagger & The Rolling Stones and Tina Turner, to name a few! It was also used by The Gestapo and Wehrmacht during WWII. President Tito rewarded The Esplanade with a golden wreath medal in 1975.

Just to set the scene.

Fun Fact!
According to legend, the first Croatian striptease party was held at The Esplanade Hotel at a farewell celebration for an Italian count!

When we walked up the hotel steps and into the entrance, through the lobby and past the grand piano, we were met by a well tailored waiter who showed us to some of the only remaining seats.

The bar was truly something. Deciding that G&Ts were the ticket, we were in a quandary when we had selected The Botanist for the gin but could not quite find my favourite ‘pink tonic’ for it to be paired with. Enter the Esplanade caped superhero barman who obviously knew that this could be achieved by adding dried hibiscus to the usual tonic. Herewith my drink needs were met and I had also acquired another cool party trick. The bar was lined with glass jars full of condiments to suit any cocktail: fresh ingredients, glazed and dried citrus fruits alike. During our short wait for the drinks to be made, we had a display of crisps and nuts to satisfy us.

Third stop: Buzz Bar

Named as such for a reason! There’s a vibe at this place that lures you in from the footpath. With a relaxed feel and live tunes, this is an easy bar to enjoy a pint and a place to unwind and take stock of yet another offering this city presents!

Final stop: The Old Pharmacy

It’s not every day Brad Pitt blows you a kiss while you’re on the dunny. But at The Old Pharmacy, this is possible. Nay, expected.

Inside this old Austro-Hungarian town house, you’ll find a traditional English pub with a mirror behind the bar, pharmacy-related paraphernalia (with a keen medical interest this took me a long time to photodocument and excitedly absorb!) and vintage adverts all set around dark wood and leather furniture. The non smoking back section, complete with leather armchairs and cosy corners, is the perfect place to sit down with a beer, whiskey, scotch or bourbon from the extensive menu and have a proper chinwag.

The bar man here was hard to crack. He was a stout and stern Croat who appeared to have ‘lived a life’. It was really a challenge to get any kind of reaction or conversation from him even though I had tried on a few occasions, so when he raised an eyebrow after I asked for a slivovice (Czech plum brandy) I felt I had earned his respect. Or pity. At the time I was feeling positive, although in hind sight, I think I probably have a more realistic interpretation of said facial expression. Never mind, it was time to say farewell to a wonderful evening with a delightful cherry liquer and be thankful for all my new found bar friends. And only a short walk back to the hotel!