Best things to do in the Greek island of Naxos

A traditional mountain village on Naxos Island

Overview

You simply can’t leave this relaxed serene island off of your Greek Islands bucket list! It’s a charming mix of history, nightlife and relaxation. Its intricate maze of streets, white-washed buildings, ocean views and unique mountain villages are just the beginning of things to see and do in Naxos! The namesake capital is Naxos Chora, a fairytale port town which lies in the shadow of a hilltop castle (Kastro) dating back to the 13th century. The island is famous for its quaint mountain villages which are accessible by day trip from Naxos Chora, as well as its long stretches of beautiful beaches.

We flew to Naxos from Thessaloniki in northern Greece, after completing our epic road trip around mainland Greece. It was one of our favourite destinations within our ‘Best of 3 Weeks in Greece‘ trip.

Where is Naxos?

Naxos is a Greek island in the South Aegean Sea, the largest of the Cyclades Islands group.

L: Naxos Island location amongst other Greek Islands and its proximity to Athens (Google image)
R: Naxos Island map showing the port city of Naxos Chora (Google image)

How do I get to Naxos?

Fortunately Naxos has its own airport, albeit small. It has direct connections with Athens and Thessaloniki and can accommodate a small number of chartered international flights. It is also accessible by ferry, closeby to the famous islands of Santorini, Mykonos and Paros.

Naxos Airport Baggage Claim: the smallest in the world?

Why should I go to Naxos?

Naxos Island is still flying relatively beneath the tourist radar. Whilst it is a bustling busy hub during summer, its visitor numbers are nowhere near the likes of Santorini or Mykonos. Thus it provides a much more relaxed holiday destination for families and couples whilst still providing some great options for singles and group travelers. However, keep reading for more reasons why you should visit. You truly have to see it to believe it!

Naxos Chora port town as seen from Apollo’s Portara at night

Fun Fact – Greek Mythology!
According to Greek legend, the young Zeus was raised in a cave on Mt Zas (‘Zeus’), which is possible to climb today! Additionally, the sea god Poseidon first laid eyes on his future wife Amphitrite while she was dancing on the island of Naxos, whilst he was passing by on his sea chariot.

Highlights

Explore Naxos Chora
Enjoy a local breakfast
Relax poolside at a resort
Enjoy a lively dinner & people watching on the Promenade
Tour the Mountain Villages of Central Naxos
Have lunch in Filoti Mountain Village
Wind your way through the tiny streets of Apeiranthos Mountain Village
Visit a rooftop bar in Naxos Chora
Walk along the Marina
Visit Apollo’s Portara by day and by night
Treat yourself to a fancy dinner in a hidden restaurant in Naxos Chora
Swim and sunbathe at Agios Georgios Beach
Simmer in your private hot tub
Discover the Old Town Castle and small alleyways
Groove to the music at Blues Cafe & Bar

The charming streets, buildings and restaurants of Naxos Chora

Explore Naxos Chora

Naxos Chora is the main port city of the island of Naxos. It’s charming cobblestone streets full of little cafes, upmarket boutique jewellery and clothing stores, tourist souvenir shops, white-washed square shaped buildings, antique wooden doors and hidden surprises are all in store waiting for you! I could spend days wandering around this charming town!

Naxos Chora with the Promenade at its base and its Kastro (Castle) above

Enjoy breakfast or morning tea at a local cafe

After arriving at the (possibly world’s smallest) airport very early in the morning after a red-eye flight from Thessaloniki, it was definitely our first priority to scout breakfast. Fortunately, we found that on every corner in Naxos is a cafe! We stopped at the first on our path and praise the Lord, it was Heaven’s Cafe! Shortly after finishing a hearty vegetable omelette and Belgian waffles, with a side of chips (interesting), we were feeling more content than ever. Given we had been up since the wee hours of the morning, we felt compelled to celebrate our arrival with their refreshing red sangria!

Left & Middle: A hearty omelette and Belgian waffles at Heaven’s Cafe, Naxos Chora
R: Sangria and home made apple and cinammon tart at Irini’s Cafe, Promenade

Relax poolside at a resort

Multiple accommodation choices exist on Naxos, ranging from high-end resorts to budget bed-and-breakfasts. We booked all of our Greece holiday accomodation through Booking.com and in Naxos, stayed at the luxurious Spiros Hotel (rated 9.1). Its proximity to both Naxos Chora and Agios Georgios Beach made it the prime location for exploring the city.

If you’re after some relaxation, a hotel with a pool is a must. We spent the better part of a day enjoying time poolside and recovering from our flight. This was the perfect introduction to life on this joyous Greek Island.

The pool and whitewashed buildings within Spiros Hotel, Naxos

Enjoy dinner & people watching on the Promenade

Dinner on the promenade is by far one of the most fun things to do in Naxos Chora! In the evening, the port swells with guests eager to enjoy a delicious meal and soak up the ambience amongst other travelers. Restaurants and cafes line the strip between the buildings and the water, some undercover and some exposed to the night air. Behind the impressive yachts bobbing up and down in the water is the illuminated Apollo’s Portara on the hilly headland.

Views along the Naxos promenade restaurants at night

We had our first experience of the popular Naxos gruyere cheese at Popi’s grill, a tyramine delight! They also served us a fresh whole dorado fish and home made moussaka. In addition to the great food, there was some fascinating people-watching to be done and the intimacy of the table setting had us feeling like we were part of a truly interactive experience.

Tour the Mountain Villages of Central Naxos

One of the most highly acclaimed things to do in Naxos is a tour of the mountain villages in the centre of the island. These villages are mostly traditional in style, built amphitheatrically on mountainous slopes with whitewashed houses and cobblestoned streets.

Pro Tip: Book Ahead!
The mountain village tours are one of the most popular tours on Naxos Island and frequently reach capacity. Unfortunately when we visited Naxos in August 2021, private tours were suspended due to Corona Virus. Transport options were limited to local bus or private car hire. However, tours will recommence and I’d highly recommend booking ahead. Additionally, there are a limited number of cars for hire on Naxos so if this is your preference, definitely arrange this in advance also!

Which mountain villages should I visit?

The most popular 3 towns are Halki, Filoti and Apeiranthos. However, if you have car hire then many others will be accessible. Halki is a tiny village with a few cafes. Filoti is a much larger town with a lively strip of restaurants heaving with customers in the middle of the day. The town is an interesting multi-level arrangement of local homes and a few accommodation options; certainly well worth an hour of exploration. Apeiranthos is a beautiful village, seemingly untouched by time and feels the least ‘touristy’, at least in my opinion.

How long should I spend visiting the mountain villages?

Tours departing from Naxos Chora are usually full day affairs. However if you have the luxury of a hire car, I’d suggest to plan for at least 6-7 hours exploration of Halki, Filoti & Apeiranthos villages of Naxos.

The sun setting over Apeiranthos Village, Naxos Island

Have lunch in Filoti Mountain Village

An array of lunch options are available in this quaint mountain village in the centre of Naxos! Famous for its olive groves and little Byzantine churches, Filoti is roughly 18km from Naxos Chora, in the beautiful verdant valley by the mountain of Zas.

Byzantine churches and beautiful valleys surrounding Filoti mountain village

The village itself is situated on quite a steep hill and the main street is lined with many cafes and restaurants, which surges with visitors during the middle of the day. There is a paved square on the main street where most of the eateries converge and the huge majestic plane tree in the middle serves as a meeting point for tourists and the town’s bus stop. Note that parking can be tricky along the main street!

We were recommended a restaurant called Baboulas, which served up quality food and was slightly less crowded than those on the main square. A local chef whipped up some lamb chops and moussaka with a Greek salad and then it was time for us to explore!

Baboulas Cafe in Filoti mountain village

Behind the main street on the slopes of the mountain are whitewashed flat roofed houses with paths built between them that snake around in various directions. There is a distinctly remote feeling here and after venturing in quite some way, we realised that there were few other tourists around. Instead, we found residents relaxing on their back porch, others hanging out their washing and more still enjoying an afternoon cup of tea on their doorstep. We were greeted with a smile as we walked, however I did feel that we were somewhat intruding on their usual quiet neighbourhood.

Backstreet images from Filoti mountain village

Wind your way through the tiny streets of Apeiranthos Mountain Village

If you’re unable to visit mainland Greece, then Apeiranthos Mountain Village will give you a small but magnificent taste of the mountainous north. As the locals say, while at Apeiranthos, there is no way of telling that you are on an island! This is because visitors are unable to visualise the sea and appear to be completely surrounded by mountains and valley plains.

Architecture has also remained virtually untouched since the Venetian Empire. You’ll find narrow marble paved mule tracks interspersed with archways, two-storey stone houses and Venetian defence towers. Some evenings can become frightfully windy but the interior of the town is generally protected from this due to its built up design.

We stopped here and sat outside with a drink from the local pub as we watched local school-aged children played football in a quadrangle. A few other tourists were visible but in general we felt as if we were part of the local community, having a quiet drink late in the afternoon.

Visit a promenade rooftop bar in Naxos Chora

Naxos Chora is definitely the go-to town for nightlife and entertainment. As dusk sets, it seems as if the population on the island doubles. In fact many local business shut down between the hours of 12-3pm for a midday siesta. This is particularly during summer, in the peak heat of the day.

However, the city comes alive as the sun goes down and at some of the rooftop bars, you’ll even encounter line ups for entry. This is particularly apparent in the late hours of the evening.

That being said, the vantage overlooking the promenade from a rooftop bar provides a wonderful opportunity to watch the revelry below! We fortunately found ourselves at a window seat in The Rum Bar, which serves both signature and bespoke cocktails. This was a great place to relax and enjoy some house beats after a day of exploring!

Walk along the Marina

One of my favourite things to do in Naxos was simply to walk along the marina by the port. During the day, it’s incredibly relaxing and bares an insight into local life, with shop owners setting up and receiving goods and boats coming and going. If you’re keen to stretch your legs, I’d recommend starting near Agios Georgios Beach, continuing along the port, around Apollo’s Portara and the Grotta Beach, to the stunning white facaded Metropolitan Cathedral of the Greek Orthodox Church.

Metropolitan Greek Orthodox Church, Naxos Chora

See Apollo’s Portara by day and by night

Apollo’s Portara is the jewel of Naxos and its image will stay with you long after you leave.

The Portara, or the Great Door, is a massive marble doorway that was initially designed as the feature of the temple of Apollo. It lies at the northern end of Naxos Port on the islet of Palatia, with these being connected by a narrow causeway. Sadly the temple was never finished and the Portara is all that remains.

Fun Fact – Greek Mythology!
In Greek mythology, the islet of Palatia was exactly where Ariadne, the Minoan princess was abandoned by her lover Theseus, after he killed Minotaur on the island of Crete.

Today the Portara is a feature of Naxos and can be seen from almost anywhere along the promenade. It stands as a beacon of the unfinished past, connecting its visitors to the present day reality of a bustling and densely built port town. A rectangular track surrounds the site, which visitors can traverse to see it up close. The Portara has a commanding presence during the day but by night, its luminosity is simply magnificent.

Find the hidden Apostolis Restaurant for a fancy dinner in Naxos Chora

One evening we were walking around the weaving narrow cobblestoned streets of Naxos Chora and heard the steady hum of humans engaged in chit chat from somewhere ahead. We continued to navigate a few streets until we came upon what appeared to be a dead end. In fact the only reason we ventured down a certain path was to investigate the fantastic wall art in front of us. However, in doing so, we came across a most gorgeous hidden restaurant called Apostolis, one of the finest in Naxos. It’s incredibly romantic and entirely secluded from the busy-ness of the promenade. It’s also extremely popular, so be sure to book ahead!

The romantic secluded interior of Apostolis Restaurant

Swim and sunbathe (sensibly) at Agios Georgios Beach

Yellow sand, soft underfoot, minimal waves, warm soothing water, comfortable sunbeds. Could a beach be any more perfect? Agios Georgios certainly lives up to all of these criteria and we thoroughly enjoyed our morning of pure bliss, hopping in and out of the Aegean Sea and relaxing on the sunbeds. (Note there is a 20€ charge for day use of the sunbed, until 9pm).

Photographers will revel in the fact that Paros Island is situated behind Agios Georgios, with the sea perfectly framing its landmass.

Agios Georgios Beach with Paros Island in the background

Simmer in your private hot tub

The peak of decadence is surely basking in the bubbles and warmth of your very own hot tub in a luxury hotel! This is definitely one of those life moments which calls for a little pampering. You’re finally on the Greek Islands, away from home and work stressors, and this was by far one of the most relaxing things to do in Naxos. It’s obviously not an essential but I promise you won’t regret it! (Disclaimer: if the choice is between a hot tub in Naxos or a hot tub in Santorini, then keep a look out for my upcoming post on Santorini… you may wish to save your dollar for Oia!)

Discover the Old Town Castle and small alleyways

Have you ever had the itch to take a walk through time? Well, it’s possible in Naxos Chora! Venture through one of two gates remaining to The Castle (Kastro): Paraporti (south) or Trani Porta (north). Sadly the southeastern gate has not been saved (Piso Paraporti). The walls behind the citadel of Naxos’ Old Town will reveal monasteries, churches and medieval buildings adorned with coats of arms on their lintels. It’s a tranquil space with narrow alleys, courtyards adorned with flowers and old mansions.

Fun Fact!
Pay careful attention when passing through the main wooden door of Trani Porta. There is a vertical incision on the marble pilaster which was a Venetian measure of length. Here traders would measure their fabrics to sell to aristocrats that entered and visited the castle!

Groove to the music at Jazz & Blues Cafe & Bar

One of my highly recommended things to do in Naxos is to visit the Jazz & Blues Bar in Chora in the late evening! Visitors will be transported away to another time and place, with smooth music assisting their journey. Set in a laneway beneath an old chapel, the friendly wait staff serve special concoctions to its guests. It’s not always easy to get a seat but well worth it.