Praslin Perfection in the Seychelles
Overview
There’s no ‘middle child’ syndrome happening on Praslin Island, Seychelles, that’s for sure! Smaller than Mahé and much larger than La Digue, this island is replete with beauty, grandiosity, luxe resorts, small boutique accommodations, plenty of Aldabra tortoises, the chance to see the famous Coco de Mer coconuts in their natural state and a lucky few visitors will even set eyes upon the Hawksbill or Green turtles coming in to shore to nest!
We spent 6 nights and 7 days on Praslin and it felt like I was being dragged from its shores to continue our journey. The reality is that the Seychelles is infinitesimally beautiful everywhere so there are no disappointments.
For logistical information on how to travel to Praslin Island and further around the Seychelles, see my post Seychelles Survival Kit. For my recommendations regarding the delicious cuisine available on this island, see my post Best restaurants on Praslin Island, Seychelles. The tourist map below shows most locations listed in this post. Praslin Island is also the perfect place to base yourself for an island hopping tour in the Seychelles!
For ideas on what to do in Praslin, keep reading!
Itinerary
North Island:
Luxury Resort Escape – The Constance Lemuria Experience
Drinks at Huna Bar
Junior Suite Rooms
Anse Kerlan
Takamaka Beach Bar (Petit Anse Kerlan)
Dinner at The Rocks / The Nest
Breakfast buffet at Legend Restaurant
International Golf Course
Views from Tee 15 / Tee 18
Anse Georgette
BBQ Lobster Buffet
Eco Tour with Robert
Turtle Nesting / Hatching
Hike from Anse Georgette to Anse Lazio
Anse Lazio
Poolside Drinks with Aru
NB: All activities above accessed through Constance Lemuria. Non-sponsored post.
South Island:
Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve
View the Coco de Mer
Island Hopping Tour – Cousine, Curieuse, St Pierre
Swim at secluded Anse La Farine
Baie St Anne
Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve
Drive around Praslin coastline
Côte d’Or beach day
Infinity pool at Chalets Cote Mer
Accommodation
See my post Seychelles Survival Kit for a range of options.
Below: Drinks in the infinity pool at Chalets Cote Mer
The Constance Lemuria Resort Experience
There is nowhere in the world I have been that has oozed such luxury minute after minute. The fine touches provided by this resort left us completely enthralled: from the complementary French champagne on arrival, to the macarons and designer cutlery delivered to us on arrival in the Junior Suite; to the postcards on our dresser which can be posted in their London style red letter box with complementary worldwide delivery.
The list continues but in addition to the hotel-based charm, comes the natural beauty of its setting, occupying the northern tip of Praslin island. Whilst all beaches are technically ‘public’, you’ll come to realise they are in fact, very much private.
The Constance Lemuria ‘Welcome’
Each visitor is welcomed in regal fashion. The floor to ceiling wooden doors are closed and a staff member announces your arrival with a loud reverberating gong on a brass symbol. Behind the doors, the foyer staff open them simultaneously and you are led in to the open plan foyer which overlooks the stunning panoramic setting of Constance Lemuria’s pool, bars, restaurants and beach.
Huna Bar Welcome
In your dizzying ecstasy and overwhelming excitement, the staff then lead you to the Chesterfield lounge come stylish African-safari-vibe Huna bar for formal introductions, payments and a welcome cart of drinks of your choice. Marvellous.
Constance Lemuria Junior Suite
After feeling as if you’ve travelled to an alternate universe, the buggy outside is waiting to take you to your room, through the tall palm trees and past Aldabra tortoises to the room of your choice. We stayed in a junior suite which was incredibly beautiful: large king bed, open window spa bath, large living area and space to burn.
On further inspection, the discovery of special features continues: freshly baked banana bread, complimentary postcards to send to your loved ones, a sturdy linen beach bag, luxury bath salts and a selection of local Takamaka rums.
Did I mention that we had direct access to the turtle-nesting beach behind our junior suite?
After twirling around in delight for a few minutes in our deluxe room in the Seychelles, the first stop was a swift exit through our back door to the famous turtle nesting beach of Praslin Island.
It is so secluded and eco-protected that Google Maps in fact has no name for it.
A walk along this white beach will have your toes enveloped in a sand pillow and your ears attuned to the gentle lapping of the ocean waves on the shore. The millions of tiny translucent ghost crabs will catch your eye as they dart to and from their miniature holes and the larger sand crabs will scuttle at a slightly less frenetic pace. More on this later in the post.
Worth a mention was the villa door bell ringing on return from our walk. The hotel had another welcome gift: French macarons with novelty reindeer spoons. I almost died.
Takamaka Beach Bar
Continuing on from our walk and happy snaps, we found our way to Takamaka Beach Bar for some of their infamous rum cocktails and a quick dip in the aqua blue waters. This edge-of-the-world drinking hole has sea-facing sunbeds overlooking Petit Anse Kerlan and a nondescript appearing bar that serves quality cocktails with fresh sushi and sashimi.
The Rocks & The Nest Restaurant
Our salt covered bodies needed a wash and our faces a little upkeep before it was on to one of my favourite restaurants I’ve ever visited: The Nest.
Walking up the steps lit by festoon and fairy lights, it was clear our dinner would be special. We were seated by the ocean, with our table decorated in shells and candles and brought a welcome drink: Nicolas Feuillatte champagne from Chouilly.
The menu was decadent and it wasn’t long before the cascade of fresh seafood commenced.
Our grilled Madagascan prawn starters (with mango, papaya salad and ginger garlic dressing) were soon thereafter accompanied by grilled red snapper and poached parrot reef fish mains, washed down with a creamy Bourgogne chardonnay, a valiant version of the varietal I’ve not sampled elsewhere. The piece de resistance was the L’expérience signature de la noir de coco: six coconut textures in their signature experience.
Since we had managed to find ourselves at Constance Lemuria on Christmas Eve, we decided to join in the end-of-evening festivities at the main bar after our special meal. There were dancing guests, children high on sugar and we heard that Santa even made an appearance…
Breakfast at Legend Restaurant
The buffet style breakfast (and a la carte lunch) offered by Constance Lemuria is nothing short of incredible. The outdoor seating is set high above the canopy of palms and overlooks Petit Anse Kerlan.
Stations within the restaurant offer visitors everything from eggs cooked your way, crepes, Belgian style waffles, exotic cheeses and meats, fresh tropical fruits, breakfast salads and my favourite… the pots. I have come to coin this term for all of the little jars filled with exciting foods in hotels that I visit. At Lemuria, the pots held delights such as chia seed pudding, flavoured yoghurts, quinoa salads and fresh mango and papaya.
Most of my breakfasts were washed down with watermelon juice, sparkling water and a hot soy latte. On Christmas morning, we were also greeted with a present from Legends: a gift bag holding some of their smooth polished stones from the foyer.
International Golf Course
If you are a golf enthusiast, you’re in for a royal treat. Lemuria has an 18 hold international championship golf course, a sprawling sight of perfectly manicured hills with complimentary green fee for hotel guests. It makes for a serene walk and has some truly spectacular vantages of the coastline.
View from Tee 15
The most spectacular view of the Indian Ocean is from the top of Tee 15.
Take plenty of suncream and water: this uphill hike in the maximum heat of the day can be strenuous! It is not a long one however, achieved in 20-30 minutes. Take a moment to sit and enjoy the surroundings, the stillness and the serenity. If you have time, ensure to do the hike at dusk for the magnificent setting sun.
Tee 18
Nearby is Tee 18, another delightful vantage point overlooking the north eastern coast of Praslin Island in the Seychelles, with magnificent views across the golf course.
Anse Georgette
Heralded as Praslin Island’s most beautiful beach (definitely a front runner but open to contention), Anse Georgette is accessed via the golf course, down a path between Tees 15 and 18. Again, be sure to pack water as there are no beach huts or vendors on the beach and it is a considerable distance from a water supply. Fortunately we walked past a local Seychellois man who sold us some fresh mangoes on the way and there was also a fresh coconut stand on the beach, where we were served coconut water and crisp coconut flesh to devour. I also met a lovely family on the beach who gave us some unopened water bottles!
We spent the better part of a day here, enjoying the luscious sand and warm waters, sitting in the branches of a tree with our coconuts and photographing the striking rock formations.
BBQ Lobster Buffet
On Boxing Day, one of the most decadent events in my life occurred: a BBQ lobster buffet on the shores of Petit Anse Kerlan. The events at Constance Lemuria are continually changing but they are definitely worth investigating!
Where else in the world can you sit beachside at a candle-lit table, under swaying palm trees on a balmy evening, whilst being offered as much cooked-on-the-spot BBQ lobster as you can possibly manage? Praslin Island, Seychelles!
After hearing they would cap the event at 40 pax, we had arrived slightly early to secure the best seat in the house: an unobscured view closest to the water’s edge. We were greeted with a welcome cocktail as the aromas of seafood filled the air. Excited guests were entering and finding seats and the anticipation of what was yet to come was palpable. Again, the sunset was ablaze and mesmerising.
Below: Sunset from our table at the BBQ Lobster Dinner at Petit Anse Kerlan
What food options were available at the BBQ Lobster Buffet?
A short walk across the sand led us to the buffet tables, where the chefs stood proudly behind fresh seafood trays ready to BBQ your selections. Whilst also including various chicken and red meat dishes, the seafood options included:
- BBQ butterflied lobster
- Grilled calamari skewers
- Grilled prawn skewers
- Smoked marlin salad
- Fresh grilled reef fish
Set amongst an array of baked potatoes, roast vegetables and salads such as beetroot, quinoa and goats cheese, the sheer plated grandiosity was majestic. Accompanied by a bottle of Chardonnay from the Hemel en Aarde (‘Heaven and Earth‘) Valley in South Africa, I’ll never forget that meal as long as I so shall live!
Eco Tour with Robert
We heard about Robert Matombe, the turtle manager at Constance Lemuria, at our first welcome drinks. He is somewhat of an icon at the hotel and known on first name basis. His passion is the wildlife, on preserving nature and educating guests on how to best enjoy yet sustain the local environment (and world) we live in.
Robert met us in the hotel foyer and took us for a walk through his ‘Jurassic Park’, the jungle surrounding the hotel entrance with small snaking water inlets that wind their way through the complex.
Robert introduced us to his sons (the Aldabra tortoises Donatello and Michaelangelo) and spoke of his wives and girlfriends (the Hawksbill and Green turtles) in a vivid and passionate display of his extreme care and love for these animals
We wandered past the Aldabra tortoise house, outside which paraded the resident male peacock with his girlfriend nearby. The tortoise enclosure is free for visitors to go inside and dote on these ancient creatures. Robert showed us into the enclosure and encouraged us to interact with them.
The enclosure is set up for kids to spend the day with the animals and also includes some cute bunnies next door!
Turtle Nesting / Hatching
We were then led to Robert’s ‘office’: an outdoor hut with informative posters on the walls and some interesting nature-based objects inside. He spent about an hour with us, discussing various turtle species, their nesting habits and what made for the ideal nesting location. He has arranged with hotel management to keep the nesting beach perfectly natural: quiet, no restaurants or bars and minimal hotel lighting to avoid confusion of the hatched baby turtles when they return to the ocean. Visitors can walk on it (as we did on our first day) but there are very few who do: most patrons head to the bars.
In the past Robert would mark out turtle nests but favours not to do so now, as loud visitors have caused confusion for nesting turtles and the hatching of their babies. If you ask him though, he will gladly point the nests out. Robert also kindly offered to call us day or night if one of the nests began to hatch. We were on Praslin Island at the best time of year however unfortunately missed the hatching process, although we were extremely lucky to witness nesting later on at the remote Cousin Island (see my upcoming post on Island Hopping in the Seychelles).
Hike from Anse Georgette to Anse Lazio
The Seychelles are replete with glorious hikes and this was a beautiful one. There are two sections to this Praslin Island hike in the Seychelles:
- From Anse Georgette to Mont Plaisir
- From Mont Plaisir to Anse Lazio
NB: The connection between these two is difficult to find and involves a convoluted passage through the village of Mont Plaisir.
Web reviews (which I fortunately read afterwards) have mentioned more than one person going missing on these trails. We did not do the first section however saw its beginning and end points and it appears largely a ‘bush bash’ in the undergrowth and scrub with minimal views and is listed as a 45 minute trek.
Some important information before commencing this hike
I would highly recommend the second section of this hike, from Mont Plaisir to Anse Lazio, as long as receiving adequate instruction prior. However without a hire car or taxi, the walk up to Mont Plaisir from the road is quite an intense upwards one. Fortunately we had a hire car which took us up to Mont Plaisir. This is not exactly a scenic viewpoint, despite it sounding as such, and after a slightly awkward foray into the local village on the top of the mount to find the hiking path, a local who hitched a ride in our car up the rest of the hill directed us onwards. We drove along a hidden track which led to a road where the beginning of the hike down to Anse Lazio began.
Without this knowledge, it’s virtually impossible to find and you could easily get lost between the two sectons of the hike due to the lack of signage. That being said, the hike will take you along remote sections of beach with little coves and bays that are pretty as a peach. There are also many fascinating rock formations to view along the way.
Bottom L: End of the bitumen road where the track to Anse Lazio begins
Bottom R: Non-signposted beginning of the track down to Anse Lazio
I must say, it’s a bit of a relief on reaching Anse Lazio. Keep in mind that when the tide comes in, access to the little bays and beaches is restricted thus you will need to return before this occurs.
Anse Lazio
Despite the not so pleasant picture painted above, Anse Lazio is a long sprawling white sand beach that is incredibly popular with locals and tourists alike.
The good news is, it can also reached directly by road along the eastern side of the island. If you are staying on the western side however, you must circle the whole island to reach its eastern access point.
With many nooks and coves amongst the palm trees, it’s a lovely place to spend a day.
In peak season, there is also a hidden drinking hole called Honesty Bar, as well as some well renowned restaurants along the foreshore, notably BonBon Plume which was unfortunately undergoing renovation during our stay.
Poolside drinks with Aru
After any hike, the temptation to jump into the ocean or a swimming pool is strong and there is no better place to do this than the 3 – tier pool at Constance Lemuria. Set above the ocean and beneath the Huna and Legend bars, the various levels of this aqua blue pool retain intimacy and charm across various levels with surrounding sunbeds.
Enter Aru.
The charming bar attendant who will make your life heaven with one of his famous pink gin and tonics, accompanied by a fine selection of nuts and banana chips.
In addition to this, Aru is on great terms with the resident Lemuria peacock, who makes his appearance around 3.30 – 5pm each afternoon. Aru certainly knows how to work a crowd and will have you sitting on the nearby steps with some nuts to feed this magnificent bird, whilst taking some memorable snapshots on your smart phone.
We made our way to the pool on multiple occasions across our stay at Lemuria. It’s magnetism will draw you back.
Parting thoughts on Constance Lemuria
Our time at Constance Lemuria was really an unforgettable experience. Plan to stay as long as you like but also recognise that you’ll feel compelled to spend your time there due to the financial outlay but also because they truly have so much to offer. You’ll be treated as royalty. I truly hope life takes me back one day.
South Island
The Coco de Mer
These marvellous plants that closely resemble human body parts are endemic only on Praslin and Curieuse Islands, thus Praslin will be most tourists best opportunity to view it in its natural state (at the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve listed below), unless organising a private tour to Curieuse.
Coco de Mer nuts have great value and sadly this means poaching is an issue. Beware that stealing these beautiful fruits is punishable by law.
Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve
Affectionately known as ‘The Heart of Praslin Island’ and ‘The Valley of Eden’, this is one place you need to add to your itinerary in the Seychelles. Listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, the nature park consists of well-preserved palms, five of them endemic to Praslin. The most famous of these is, as mentioned, the Coco de Mer.
Tracks of various lengths lead visitors through the dense forest, under the magnificent Coco de Mer fruits (both male and female counterparts) and past giant spiders in their webs and quick lizards on the ground below.
The entrance has a small wooden hut showcasing various palm fruits such as the Coco de Mer so that tourists can gain an appreciation for their size and weight.
Island Hopping Tour – Cousine, Curieuse, St Pierre
If you have time, I’d highly recommend an island hopping tour in the Seychelles. A private boat or yacht can expand your horizons and experience on a half day or day trip. Most of these day trips depart from Praslin Island.
Our tour concluded with a swim at the secluded Anse La Farine on Praslin Island which I would highly recommend.
Baie St Anne
This administrative district of Praslin Island comprises a scenic bay full of boats with azure blue waters and deserves a stop for a photograph. With a hub of shops, cash points and petrol stations, it’s a functional place to stop and refill on food and drink items.
Special mention to Eve Restaurant which saved two hungry tourists one night when all other restaurants were closed!
Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve
Often touted as the smaller version of Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve, Fond Ferdinand has strict visiting hours that must be accompanied by a guide. If you have already been to the main nature reserve and limited with time, it’s probably skippable, however a hike to the top has some unique views.
Drive around Praslin coastline
One of the most informative and orienting activities we did was to drive the full distance of the island (well as much as one can possibly do on the roads). The only section of the island that doesn’t link up is at the northern tip, occupied by Constance Lemuria. This will give you an overarching appreciation of the various landscapes of the island, as well as the restaurant and hotel options at various beaches. It’s also a fun way of discovering lots of secret island treasures off-grid!
Below: Images from around Praslin Island
Côte d’Or Beach
One of the most luxe white sand beaches you’ll come across on earth, Côte d’Or was a refreshing surprise and one where we spent considerable time.
With a selection of the island’s most acclaimed restaurants (see my post detailing the Best Restaurants on Praslin Island), you’ll have the option of a sundowner whilst overlooking the vast shoreline or going for a dip in the shallow waters. If you find yourself at Cafe des Artes, you can also enjoy their iconic purpose-built swing constructed at oceans edge. One look on instagram will reiterate its popularity!
When the tide is out, the shore seems to stretch forever before meeting the ocean edge, and makes for fabulous photographs.
From the beach you’ll also catch a glimpse of Chauve Souris, a private island that is home to the luxury resort Chauve Souris Relais.
Infinity pool at Chalets Cote Mer
While many hotels have private pools in the Seychelles, one of the most intimate and picturesque ones lies at the boutique hotel in Baie St Anne, Chalets Cote Mer. We stayed here for a few nights and I just adored the warm water infinity pool with views across to the other side of Praslin (Anse La Blague peninsula) and of Round Island.
There is also step access down to the ocean, which is calm and soft underfoot. If you have time, I’d highly recommend a stop here for a swim and cocktail or a sunset meal in their restaurant.
