CZECH REPUBLIC,  Food

A Prague Menu: options in Malá Strana & Old Town

Overview

Food in Prague is rich, delicious and will tickle all the tastebuds.

Restaurants are usually tied to one particular Czech beer and serve only that, usually with the beer of choice advertised outside. For example, if you are particularly after a Pilsner Urquell, don’t enter the building with the Staropramen sign. They won’t have Urquell. Although they will have other beverage options.

Below are restaurants I personally visited during my stay in Malá Strana and Old Town, the most perfect location of the city I would stay in for a 2-3 day trip to Prague.

The Charles Bridge leading into Malá Strana (the Lesser Quarter),
the location of my favourite restaurants in Prague

Malá Strana

Peronally, I enjoyed the restaurants on Malá Strana side of the Charles Bridge more than the Old Town. They were still abuzz and with an energetic feel but slightly more relaxed and felt a touch less touristic. Note that some restaurants close by the castle are on an incline and may require a little climb to reach! The restaurants by the Charles Bridge are all on the flat, although cobblestoned streets make heels a challenge (or injurious). If you venture off of Mostecká Street and into the nearby laneways, you will find some of the cutest wine bars and restaurants you ever did see.


Pork’s

With a motto of ‘knees that get you to your knees’, the challenge is set by this Prague insitution at the entrance to the Charles Bridge.

The entrance to Pork’s on the left
with the Charles Bridge Gate in the background

Despite the venue capable of seating 100 people, visitors can expect to queue on weekends. However, you can bypass this by booking online. The general ambience is lively and fun, with a really interesting vibe: part local lads meeting in a group for some pig and pints and part surprised tourists who can’t quite believe the size of the place. The beer is kept fresh in four huge vats at the entrance.

Pilsner Urquell vats at Pork’s

The menu will have you questioning why you had never heard of so many pork dishes before:

  • Pig cheeks in their own juice
  • Pork sausage from the butcher
  • Pork knee cabbage soup
  • Pork chop in lard
  • Shredded knuckle in a butter roll
  • Roast pork ribs

I went with their classic pork knuckle with mustard horseradish and crispy cabbage. And a pint of Pilsner Urquell. And I was forced into their beer icecream with caramel cream dessert. I definitely overdid myself but I think I kept the guys at the table next to me amused.

For the non-pork eater, there are other options on the menu too.


Residence U Černého Orla

It was such a treat to have this old style Prague restaurant within a unique boutique hotel and history dating back to the mid 14th century, just a few steps away from my accommodation.

The grand facade of Residence U Černého Orla

I had arrived back into the old part of town after my mishap coming back from Petrin Tower, where I got lost in the rain wondering back down the hill in the dark and was feeling a little cold and miserable.

Enter Residence U Černého Orla for the antidote.

As soon as I walked into the warm interior, was able to offload unessential items on the coat rack and cordially greeted and taken to my seat, it was not long before I realised the sheer grandiosity of the restaurant. Old paintings adorned the walls, the cutlery was immaculately placed and I was immediately brought a hot (mulled) wine and water.

Hot wine at Residence U Černého Orla whilst awaiting the main meal

All the traditional Czech big meat options are available, including:

  • Beef sirloin in cream sauce
  • Roasted pork ribs in spicy marinade
  • Pork knee with marinade
  • Beef goulash with beer
  • Duck leg confit
Duck leg confit with potato dumplings and red cabbage
at Residence U Černého Orla

After choosing the latter, which came complete with braised red cabbage in wine with apples and potato dumplings, I was feeling significantly recompensed for the earlier kafuffle.

There is a Lesser Town legend which states that this house is dedicated to bliss and happiness and I’d agree!


U Glaubiců

U Glaubiců has a long heritage. Intially built as a beer hall in 1520, it satiated the public, politicians and nobility alike. Complete with a 700 year old cellar and multiple rooms that evoke a feeling of being transported back in time, U Glaubiců is unmissable. It’s one of those places that I would walk past and wonder what was going on inside due to the hefty number of people seated in their outdoor section and the general humm that appeared to be coming from inside.

The menu cover at U Glaubiců displaying its striking position behind the arched pathway on Mostecká Street in Malá Strana and a depiction of the clientele it has served across the centuries

I was beginning to learn that Czech portion sizes were well beyond me. In fact, if you’re not after a big meal, you could easily share most portion sizes in Prague between two. So after another (delicious) and traditional meal of duck leg, red cabbage, bread dumplings and potatoes, I did have to prepare a little extra room for the icecream donut cone that followed. I had passed this little icecreamery on countless occasions walking to my accommodation where people would endure long queues during the day and despite not being the biggest ice cream fan, I could not pass the opportunity. It was delicious but I was ready to relax on desserts for a good few years!


Old Town

Old Town by nature is all a little bit more packed together so the restaurants can seem unduly close in some areas and tourists abound. Food is quality rich Czech fare, and there are many great options in this part of Prague 1 too.


Pivnice U Rudolfina

After walking downstairs into a pub-type den with dark wooden benches spaced around the room and a non-descript serving station and till at the other end, I quickly realised one thing: noone spoke English. It was clear on opening my mouth that I was one of these people who had somehow landed in the local lunch hotspot and so they sent the one member of staff who spoke limited English over to me. They didn’t have wifi and I didn’t have a local sim card. So it was back to old fashioned communication. Something about the ‘non touristic’ vibe here kept me from leaving. I was fascinated to people watch. Everyone had a pint of beer. It was around 2pm and I’m not sure if they were going back to their day job or rather having a day off.

I looked at the menu and could understand nothing. I was given 5 options and I was uncertain if this was because there were only 5 options available on the lunch menu, or if the waiter only knew how to pronounce 5 options.

Beef goulash, bread dumpling and potatoes at Pivnice U Rudolfina, Old Town

Regardless, he recommended the beef goulash which I was yet to try in Prague so I gave this a shot. It was presented very simply but in combination with a bread dumpling and potatoes, it really hit the mark. Soaking up the last of that marinade was delightful. I’d had a lot of beer of late so paired it with their local red wine. Again, apologies for the lack of details but I have no clue what varietal this was!

I must admit I felt quite out of place although the food was delicious and the ambience was culturally intriguing.


Bohemia Restaurant

It really was time for my first Staropramen. Bohemia restaurant had an intimate ‘inside’ vibe, with an arched walkway entrance and the menu displayed on waist height chalkboards outside. The interior was relaxed yet decorative with large arched crossbeams for the ceiling, wooden chairs and tables and a large window allowing much light in. During the warmer months, an outdoor courtyard is available for seating also.

I had come across this restaurant somewhat surreptitiously at lunch time and after countless meals of heavy game meats (which are also available at Bohemia), I decided it was time for something more familiar to my diet: a smoked trout salad. Delicious! I did try a Staropramen and I’m feeling a little courageous at this time of writing so I might be so bold as to say: I’m an Urquell girl.


Krčma

This underground pub has a medieval type theme and is a relaxed yet gritty ‘slap-the-beer-on-yer-table’ venue. I think I landed here after Google searching ‘best pubs in Prague’. On the menu: sausages. What girl doesn’t crave that from time to time?! Staff were friendly, patrons were happy and laughing, the food was good and the beer was Urquell.


Sedm Konšelů

With the interior partially stepped down from street level, I meandered here on my last day for a small snack after walking around for a few hours. The interior was quite basic but the menu, extensive. It’s probably not high on my recommendability scale although if you do have quite specific dietary requirements, then this place really does provide a plethora of menu options, whilst also offering the traditional Czech style foods.


Final word

Stick to Malá Strana, you can’t go wrong!

Mostecká Street, Malá Strana