SLOVENIA

Best things to do in Ljubljana: the fairytale capital city of Slovenia

Overview

The natural beauty and charm of Slovenia is almost impossible to describe. Its Bavaria-esque fairytale castles, lakes and forests will impart millions of magic memories that remain with you well after you leave. This little country in Central Europe is bordered by Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia. Albeit small, it contains no shortage of historic cities, Alpine mountains, incredible sculptures, captivating night markets and even a short Adriatic coastline. Ljubljana is its capital and most visitors will find themselves commencing their journey through Slovenia from here.

The romantic cobblestoned streets of Ljubljana’s Old Town, its ancient but lively squares, fresh markets, Ljubljanica River and traditional restaurants are all set in the shadow of its famous castle, set up on Castle Hill. The Ljubljanica River divides Ljubljana’s Old Town from its modern city, and on the latter you’ll find its Parliament, National Museum and modern day shops.

Ljubljana is a gorgeous travel destination, as well as being the perfect place to base yourself whilst exploring the country. You can easily see the below highlights of this stunning city in 2 nights and 3 days. However, there’s so much to see in greater Slovenia! Make sure to check out the beautiful Lake Bled, Triglav National Park and Bohinj Lake as well as iconic locations in the south, such as Postojna Cave, Predjama Castle and the seaside town of Piran. These breathtaking places are all possible as day trips from Ljubljana!

Overlooking Old Town Ljubljana and the Ljubljanica River from Ljubljana Castle Watchtower

Highlights of Ljubljana

Admire Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most)
Have brunch in the Old Square (Mestni trg)
Ascend the gondola to Ljubljana Castle

Visit the bustling Central Market (Pogacarjev trg)
Place a padlock on Butchers Bridge (Mesarski most)
Traverse Triple Bridge (Tromostovje)

Take in the lively ambience at Preseren Square (Prešernov trg)
Relax in Congress Square (Kongresni trg)
View the Monument to the Victims of All Wars

Visit Slovenian Parliament
See the Monument to the Revolution (Spomenik Revolucije)
See the National Slovenia Museum (Narodni muzej Slovenije)

National Gallery of Slovenia (Narodna Galerija)
Try a variety of culinary delights at the Friday Night Open Markets
Experience Slovenian wine
Enjoy a romantic dinner along Ljubljanica River

Love padlocks on Butcher’s Bridge, across Ljubljanica River

Slovenia Day Trips – stay tuned for upcoming posts on some breathtaking sights in wider Slovenia!

Lake Bled / Bled Island / Bled Castle / Triglav National Park / Vintgar Gorge / Lake Bohinj
Postojna Castle / Postojna Cave / Piran

Bled Castle overlooking Lake Bled on a day trip from Ljubljana

How do I get to Slovenia?

Great question.

Access to Slovenia was made somewhat difficult after the combustion of their national airline, Adria Airways, on 30 September 2019. Most European countries have national carriers that fly to Slovenia however, many flights are indirect.

If you’re already in Europe, there are some excellent comfortable coach lines that will take you by road to Ljubljana at a fraction of the cost. I used Flixbus from Prague (see my write up on Prague here). Tickets can easily be purchased either at the coach station or through the excellent app ‘GetByBus’.

Walking through the quiet streets of Ljubljana at 6am after my overnight coach trip; much different to the day time activity!

Where should I stay?

If this is your first trip to Ljubljana, I’d highly recommend staying along the Ljubljanica River in the old town, between Dragon Bridge and St James Bridge.

This will immerse you in Ljubljana history and culture, whilst being close to the major tourist attractions. There are also a high concentration of smaller boutique hotels and AirBnBs to choose from in this precinct. We stayed in an AirBnB as it afforded us more space for the same cost as a hotel.

Views down Ljubljanica River from Triple Bridge

Admire Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most)

Undoubtedly one of the best and most iconic things to do in Ljubljana is to visit Dragon Bridge. If you’ve arrived at the Ljubljana Central Station by coach and are walking into the old town, then you’ll cross it along the way. This is not just a metaphorical bridge naming folks! There are actual, incredibly ‘lifelike’ dragons on this bridge: two at each end and 16 others decorating it. This triple-hinged ornately decorated arch bridge has a span of 33 metres and was unveiled in 1901. The dragon is now a symbol of the city.

Dragon Bridge

Have brunch in the Old Square (Mestni trg)

My first objective after arriving on a long overnight coach ride was to check in to the AirBnB (where my friend was patiently waiting) and then to catch up with her over an incredible brunch! What better place than along the cobbled streets of Old Square in the Old Town!?

We walked along Stari trg and Mestni trg (the main squares which merge into each other to form the ‘main street’), admiring the Robba Fountain, historic statues and old buildings. Small boutique shops were open and people were milling about with their morning coffees.

The gentle hum from the famous Čajna hiša tea house drew us inside. With a huge tea selection and some delicious breakfasts on offer, this is definitely a place to keep on the radar!

Cafes lining Mestni trg, with Robba fountain in the centre

Ascend the gondola to Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski grad)

Another unmissable thing to do in Ljubjana is to visit the castle! Ride the funicular to the top of Castle Hill and explore this medieval fortress that was constructed in the 11th century and then rebuilt in the 12th century. Tickets can be prebooked or bought onsite and at the time of writing were 13€ per adult, including return transfers on the funicular.

Incredible views across Ljuljana Castle and Ljuljana city from the castle watchtower

Once inside, you’ll find the Pentagonal Tower, Castle Chapel of St George, Penitentiary, and Rustika gallery. The grounds are divine and the photographic opportunities plentiful.

Intricate art within the Ljubljana Castle

The piece de resistance is most certainly the spectacular unique views across Ljubljana from the Watchtower.

Views of Ljubljana Old Town from Ljubljana Castle Watchtower

Visit the bustling Central Market (Pogacarjev trg)

Open daily except Sundays and holidays, the Central Market of Ljubljana is a charming insight into local life. Its pleasant ambience and laid back feel has made it a popular tourist attraction and one of the ‘must do’s’ when visiting the capital city. It showcases a huge variety of locally sourced produce and food items. You’ll find everything from fresh fruits and vegetables from farmer’s gardens to tropical fruits, dry-cured products, flowers and plants. Additionally, there are home made freshly baked breads, biscuits, olive oil and pumpkin seed oil. It’s a prime way to understand the routine lifestyle of locals of Ljubljana.

Central Market nearing the end of the day

Place a padlock on Butchers Bridge (Mesarski most)

Butchers Bridge symbolises an idea that spanned many decades. In the 1930s, plans were to create it an extension of the Central Market, as a covered bridge. Sadly, due to World War II, the bridge was never built and its proposed site lay as an open space in the centre of the Central Market for over 50 years. Proposals for the bridge design began in the 1990s and in 2009 building of the bridge commenced, in a much simpler design than original architect Jože Plečnik had envisaged. It was completed in 2010 and since then, has taken on somewhat of a replica of the Parisian Pont des Arts, with couples in love placing padlocks along its wire walls, symbolising their declarations of eternal love.

Hundreds of padlocks on Butcher’s Bridge

The bridge is so full of padlocks in the current day, that it’s virtually impossible to find space to add one!


Traverse Triple Bridge (Tromostovje)

The Triple Bridge is a group of three bridges across the Ljubljanica River. It connects Ljubljana’s historical medieval town on one bank and the modern city of Ljubljana on the other. It’s also a great place to photograph the Ljubljanica River!


Take in the lively ambience at Prešeren Square (Prešernov trg)

Multiple streets converge at this circular hub and popular meeting point on the bank of the Ljubljanica River. As soon as you cross the Triple Bridge, you’ll land on the Square. It’s a vibrant plaza in the Old Town’s pedestrian zone for community events, festivals, concerts, sports, political events and protests. The atmosphere is lively and a great place to people watch whilst letting the world go by.

The statue of France Prešeren in Prešeren Square

Relax in Congress Square (Kongresni trg)

Congress Square is a large lawned leafy park, with ambling pathways positioned under tall trees, allowing visitors to relax in the shade on park benches. It’s beautiful and a pleasant reprieve from the bustle of Old Town.

The Zvezda park which stretches across the central part of the square is surrounded by many important landmark buildings. These include the former Provincial Mansion (where Congress took place but is now occupied by the University of Ljubljana), the Slovenian Philharmonic building, the Bidermeyer building which houses the oldest Slovenian publishing house and the neoclassical Kazina building. There are also the remains of the town walls from the Roman era (previously a burial ground), as well as a picturesque music pavillion.

Zvezda Park in Congress Square

View the Monument to the Victims of All Wars

Along the northern edge of Congress Square, which turns into Subiceva ulica street, is the commanding and impressive Monument to the Victims of All Wars. This incredibly moving monument is definitely worthwhile visiting while in the area.


Visit Parliament

Continue further along Subiceva ulica street to find the Slovenian Parliament. The National Assembly and the National Council convene in a modernist palace known as “Slovenian Parliament”, sited in Republic Square. It’s front entrance is particularly moving.


See the Monument to the Revolution (Spomenik Revolucije)

On the opposite side of the road to Parliament and also within Republic Square is one of Ljubljana’s largest public sculptures, the Spomenik Revolucije Monument. This sculpture is an artistic interpretation of the mass movement of the revolutionary crowds, struggles and victories during WWII. It is a memorial work which commemorates the WWII victory of the Yugoslavia Partisans, as well as honouring the Socialist Revolution that defeated the occupying and oppressive fascist forces who had divided up Slovenia.


Visit the National Slovenia Museum (Narodni muzej Slovenije)

The strikingly beautiful building of the National Museum of Slovenia is almost reason enough to visit. It is the oldest and largest museum in Slovenia and it houses permanent collections that date back to the Stone Age.

The National Museum of Slovenia, beautifully positioned on a tree-lined street

Don’t miss out on seeing the world’s oldest musical instrument, a 60,000 year old Neanderthal’s flute from the Divje Babe cave.

Nearby the National Slovenia Museum, I came across a beautiful and distinctly old-Slovenia style building which I had imagined was some kind of art gallery or museum. I later found out it was the American Embassy in Slovenia!

The American Embassy in Slovenia building

We didn’t have time to enter the National Gallery of Slovenia however like many of the architectural wonders in Slovenia, the building alone was worth a quick photo stop. This is the country’s main art gallery.

The National Gallery of Slovenia

Try a variety of culinary delights at the Friday Open Markets

Truly one of the very best things to do in Ljubljana
(and my personal favourite!) is to visit their fun and vibing Friday Open Kitchen! You’ll kick yourself if you miss this open air food market!

We had such a wonderful evening wandering around the pretty Pogačarjev trg square, amongst the varied food and drink stalls, whose vendors congregate for Ljubljana’s Open Kitchen (Odprta Kuhna) every Friday. The market is open during the day but it really picks up momentum at dusk and in the evening. You’ll need to allow a few hours to fully appreciate the enormous display of colourful food and drink on offer, as well as to soak up the fabulous atmosphere. Visitors and locals of all ages converge at this unique and inviting food market to welcome the incoming weekend and savour some of the region’s most flavoursome delicacies. From Indian roti and dosa, to fresh Vietnamese rolls, to organic salmon burgers, to the Balkan-influenced grilled čevapčiči and pljeskavica patties in flatbread, to Carniolan sausage or štruklji: there’s something for everyone! It’s a foodie’s mecca!

Adjacent the Open Kitchen is Grand Cafe Ljubljana, an inviting bar and restaurant which also serves incredible drinks to accompany your food! Don’t forget to try the fresh local beer from Human Fish Brewery.

Grand Cafe Ljubljana

Experience Slovenian Wine

It would be a complete travesty to miss out on Slovenian wine while in its capital! My favourites were the Rebula and Malvazija white wine varietals. Rebula is a dry white with a depth to rival any chardonnay or burgundy, with its sumptuous, banquet-like complexity. Malvazija is a distinctive, food-friendly wine that is gloriously floral and invigorating. My favourite vintner was from Ferdinand Winery, a wine grower in an east Slovenian town called Kojsko.

Our bottle of chilled Rebula waiting patiently for us to pour another glass

Enjoy a romantic dinner along Ljubljanica River

Another of my personal favourite evenings was spent wandering along Petkovšek, the embankment by the Ljubljanica River. We walked past a long line of charming restaurants, with a large proportion of them being between Dragon and Triple bridges. It was a sight to behold: all lit in fairylights, most of them with indoor and outdoor seating and people enjoying the merriment of the evening.

Petkovšek Embankment in the late afternoon

The lure of Restavracija Most (Most Restaurant) pulled us in and we were led inside a to beautiful interior.

The inviting and warm interior of Restaurant Most

The ethos at Most Restaurant is centred around local fresh food, sourced from the Central Markets and prepared in a truly Slovenian fashion. On offer were the likes of fresh fish, octopus, pasta with black truffles, venison and other Slovenian meat delicacies. Our plates danced before us as they were placed: prawns and octopus with Mediterranean vegetables, next to two glasses of the finest Rebula wine. The meal concluded with pumpkin seed oil parfait and pumpkin seed brittle.