NSW Northern Rivers: A Comprehensive Guide
Overview
The lush green NSW Northern Rivers comprises a large region of over 20,000 km2 that is defined by the Tweed, Richmond and Clarence river systems. With a population of almost 300,000 it includes National Parks, world heritage sites, pristine rainforest and magnificent coastline. It’s an interesting area, embracing alternative lifestyles and innovative business opportunities that suit creative types. There are larger regional centres such as Tweed Heads, Lismore, Ballina and Grafton, interconnected by smaller village-type towns such as Murwillumbah (the sugar cane mecca), Byron Bay (a popular tourist location) and Casino (home to a booming beef trade).
For a holiday that encompasses stunning hinterland rainforest, sweeping coastal views, impeccable fine dining options through to hearty beachside takeaway, breathtaking hikes and some wonderful breweries and distilleries, look no further than this gorgeous region.
Itinerary
Saturday
Fingal Head Causeway
Tropical Fruit World tour
Lunch & afternoon: Red Earth Brewery, Cudgen
Dinner: Paper Daisy / Halcyon House
Sunday
Morning: Kingscliff Beach / Halcyon Spa
Lunch: Kingscliff Beach Hotel
Dinner: Fins Restaurant
Monday
Tuesday
Nightcap National Park
Minyon Falls Lookout
Minyon Falls Walking Track
Dinner: Fleet Restaurant
Wednesday
Husk Distillery and tour
Lunch: Husk
Dinner: Pipit
Thursday
Climb Mount Warning
Late lunch: Mavis’ Kitchen
Dinner: Spice Den
Friday – Sunday
Depending on how much time you have in your holiday allocation, consider one of the below options to finish off your time in this glorious part of the world!
For one day: consider the magical small town of Newrybar including the uber popular Harvest Café, a 15 minute drive from Byron Bay.
For a long weekend: tantalise all of your folk and hippie senses in the gorgeous beachside town of Byron Bay with stunning hinterland vistas, or instead head to the southern tip of the Gold Coast and enjoy all that Coolangatta and Tweed Heads has to offer!
Saturday
Fingal Head Causeway
You can’t go past this incredible geographical landmark. Akin to the Giant’s causeway in Ireland, this is the Northern Rivers version. If you’re a pro photographer, you’ll want to come back here in the evening for sunset too. You’ll get some incredible pictures.
Mythology says that Fingal was a Celtic giant who attempted to build a causeway over the ocean. From the Fingal Head lighthouse, it is possible to see these outcrops of hexagonal columnar-jointed basalt jutting out of the ocean. Follow the walking track from the carpark at Fingal Head to the quaint little lighthouse and then walk across to the cliff edge. Don’t miss it!
R: Fingal Head Lighthouse
Take a stroll on Fingal Head Beach before heading on to the next activity. This is one of the most secluded yet beautiful beaches in the Northern Rivers.
Tropical Fruit World tour
Tropical Fruit World is a family farm spanning 165 acres where more than 500 fruits from all over the world are grown. Come here to taste exotic, unusual and delicious varieties!
Make sure to book in for a tour on this working farm, which takes 2.5 – 3 hours to complete and includes:
- A Plantation Safari through the orchards on a tractor train
- A Wildlife Boat Cruise on the waterways
- Entrance to the Fauna Park where you will meet animals such as kangaroos and emus
- A fruit tasting session where you will sample and learn about seasonal fruits
Entrance to the Plantation Market and Plantation Café is from 10 am – 4 pm daily, free of charge.
Lunch: Red Earth Brewery, Cudgen
One of my favourite afternoons out, Red Earth captures all things quintessential about Australia: mateship, outdoors, sunshine, tinshed makeovers on the top of a rolling hill, food trucks and of course, beer paddles. As you walk towards the entrance, there’s a hum that emanates from the place: full of happy, carefree weekenders whose only anxiety is which pint to choose next.
The decor inside is interesting and the feature wall of empty painted picture frames in various sizes will keep your gaze for a while.
Spend the afternoon and grab some lunch from their famous food trucks. Brews are unique and many of the fruits are sourced from Tropical Fruit World next door, such as their Fruit Tree Neipa IPA. As a savoury lover, this was surprisingly not too sweet. Beer paddles will set you back around $17 or buy by the schooner / pint.
Dinner: Paper Daisy, Halcyon House
From the moment one arrives at Halcyon House on the waterfront of Cabarita Beach, it feels special. The whitewash frontage to the hotel and Day Spa imbibe a feeling of calm and impending relaxation. Strolling along the outside wooden decking under the fairy lights and thatched roof and past the hotel pool, it’s clear that visitors are relaxed and channeling that holiday vibe.
The wonder continues after stepping foot inside Paper Daisy, a highly acclaimed Australian restaurant pulling in multiple awards including a chef hat. The inside is spacious and inviting, with interesting art work on the walls and a navy blue and white theme, true nautical colours.
Staff are professional and warm, with menu options to cater for smaller or larger groups. One of my favourite dishes from the evening was the local fish baked in kelp, baby potatoes and seaweed broth. It was Mahi Mahi fish and I was in pescatorian heaven!
Sunday
Morning:
Option 1 Coffee + Beach Swim
Head to Kingscliff beachfront to grab a coffee (this is an Australian tradition on weekends) and find a spot along the expansive coast line, where you can watch kite surfers testing their luck with the wind and waves. Take a dip ‘between the flags’ (where surf life savers can rescue you from those crazy waves if need be)!
Option 2 Halcyon House Pool + Day Spa
If you decided to spoil yourself at Halcyon House, make sure you complete the experience with a treatment in their famed Day Spa, followed by a refreshing morning swim in the pool.
Lunch: Kingscliff Beach Hotel
The ‘Kingy’ is a local favourite, set just back from the famous Kingscliff Beach. It’s relaxed and open yet energetic and having been there during the week as well as on a weekend, I’d definitely recommend a visit on a Sunday afternoon where you’ll find tables of happy patrons, music and live sports playing on the big screen. Food is typical pub fare and there is a solid wine list in addition to the large selection of beers on tap. The Kingy has a steady lineup of live acts so be sure to check out their website for upcoming events! It’s the perfect indoor/outdoor venue!
Fins Restaurant
I don’t often visit the same place twice, however Fins had me at hello. Or at least at first glance of their 5 course degustation menu. With paired wines.
This staple and favourite hatted restaurant in Kingscliff near the famous Peppers Resort is reasonably obscured from the parking lot alongside the strip of cafes and restaurants it resides by. However one step inside the outdoor but covered space, one is immediately transported to a jungle style setup to make you feel as if you’ve landed within an Indiana Jones movie. It’s not overly large but still spacious and you’re made to feel special and as if the staff are purely there to cater to you.
Despite my visits being 5 years apart, I have such fond memories of each. The Fins philosophy centres around a commitment to organic produce and the very best local, line caught fish and seafood. Fins has received a chef hat award for 22 consecutive years and in 2020 was awarded the ‘Best Seafood Restaurant in Australia’ at the Seafood Excellence Awards!
Our last degustation (current 2020 menu) included:
- Local sashimi, nori dust, seaweed mayonnaise, hot shallot, lime oil, ginger chips
- Lobster bisque: Tweed King prawns, black garlic croutons
- Scallops and Iluka school prawn ‘not burger’, yuzu ketchup, potato ‘chips’
- Snowy’s fish: local line caught fish of the day, fennel puree, crunch green beans, lemon and riesling
- Meyer lemon creme, tangy rhubarb, fennel biscotti
With paired wines including a glass of bubbles on arrival, a delectable dry ‘sherry’ and a Rockford dessert riesling which complement the dishes perfectly, this is one of my favourite restaurants in the region.
Monday
Today is dedicated to exploring the quaint little township of Murwillumbah and surrounds…
Below: Images from Murwillumbah (note the reflection of Mount Warning in the pupils of the woman in the graffiti art)
Stamp & Grind / Condong Post Office
I’d seen the sign to Stamp & Grind multiple times after exiting the highway on the way to work, opposite the Condong Sugar Mill with its billowing chimney infusing the smells of sugar cane into the surrounding air.
One day, I pulled in.
What a shame to have driven past so many times! From the outside, its appearance declares itself as a gorgeous country town tin-roofed relic from a time past. Inside however, is a delightfully surprising modern set up with inviting and comfortable seating areas, as well as tasty pastries and great coffee. Stamp & Grind also sell local artisan products such as locally made honey, tea and chocolates. The outdoor section allows visitors to sit at tables and bask in the sunshine.
Condong Sugar Mill
You can’t miss the billowing plumes from the Sugar Mill. It’s a wondrous sight. The scent will remain with you for life. Be sure to book a tour if you visit during crushing season, typically July to November.
On the way in to the Murwillumbah township, you’ll cross a tiny bridge advertising ‘The Tweed River’. Pull over in a safe place to take a stunning photograph over the sugar mill along the river.
Brunch: Wild Thyme
I had to force myself to explore other lunch options during my time working in Murwillumbah. Otherwise I would have ended up eating the same thing each time: the green superfood bowl. Having undergone a funky new renovation during Covid lockdowns, it’s a buzz on the popular Wharf Street of Murwillumbah.
Main Street Shopping
There’s no denying that Murwillumbah retains that old country charm of the Australia of yesteryear. It’s a laidback vibe that you won’t help but notice as soon as you stroll down the Main Street or sit and people watch in a cafe for a while. The people have a general air of being non-plussed and unhurried. However don’t let this fool you, the town has plenty of big offerings!
Shopping is a completely mixed bag. You’ll find all sorts from country wear, fashionable boutique clothing stores, op shops, antiques, electrical, sewing and fabric stores, fixit stores and plenty of country baking and pastry shops to feed that spot of hunger along the way.
Don’t miss coffee at JuJu’s.
Lunch: The Balcony or The Modern Grocer
The Balcony is a relaxed restaurant with wonderful views down the Main Street of Murwillumbah and over the old Post Office. On sunny days a magical glow is cast along the buildings. I visited in winter and seated out on the upstairs balcony was positively sweating in the gorgeous sunshine!
With simple meals that are reasonably priced such as burgers and grilled fresh salmon for $15, house wines at $7 per glass and beers at $5, it’s a refreshing stop with prompt service and nice scenery.
Alternatively, The Modern Grocer is a foodie institution on Wollumbin Street in Murwillumbah. With gourmet produce and a deli fit for a queen, you’ll find fresh, locally sourced food with great coffee and healthy kombucha drinks for sale.
Riverview Hotel
Once you’ve satisfied your curiosities along the more populated part of town, it’s worth taking a little stroll by the mighty Tweed River. If you’ve got the energy, walk north towards the Riverview Hotel. It’s time to relish your quaint purchases and sit by this famous riverside institution with a pint of your favourite ale. The views down the mighty Tweed River in this little town will have you feeling as if you’re on the Mississippi.
Dinner: Potager Garden Restaurant
A short drive through some winding hills and overlooking the entire Tweed region, you’ll find Potager, a romantic ‘middle of nowhere’ garden restaurant that is lit in fairy lights at night and resting on some luscious green surroundings visible during the day.
With a focus on fresh, garden vegetables grown on a 10 acre farm in Carool, you’ll feel instantly welcome as if you’d stepped into your family’s kitchen. The team at Potager are real and very kind. We had some last minute requests related to a larger group and despite a busy evening, Potager were extremely accommodating and kind, delivering us the very best in service and food quality. Favourites of the night were definitely the cured kingfish, organic zucchini flowers, organic beetroot steaks, market fish of the day (kingfish) and 350gm 30 day dry aged ribeye. The unique ‘Potager mess’ for dessert capped off a wonderful evening of laughter, friendship, great food and relaxed ambience.
Tuesday
All of this gluttony requires some hard work and today will combine a little exercise with a lot of beauty. For directions to Minyon Falls within Nightcap National Park, see the NSW National Parks website.
Nightcap National Park / Minyon Falls
Minyon Falls is a plunge waterfall on the Repentance Creek in the Northern Rivers region of New South Wales. It descends more than 100 metres over huge rhyolite cliffs which were once part of the Tweed Volcano. The underlying basalt was eroded by a steady water flow resulting in the impressive waterfall.
Minyon Falls Lookout (top of the falls)
If you’re a stranger to the region, then let me tell you, this is an instagrammers paradise. Variations on the famous photograph have subjects perilously and precariously placed near the edge of the beautiful Minyon Falls. There’s a barrier and warning sign but this largely seems to go unnoticed.
Plan your day by initially driving to the Minyon Falls Lookout. If you’re short on time, you’ll get a great vantage point of the cascading waters flowing down into the Bangalow palm-shaded gorge 100 metres below. You’ll be surrounded by Australian native eucalypts such as blackbutt and scribbly gum at the top of the cliff.
A pathway leads you down to a viewpoint where you can see the water tumbling over the edge and you may see a crazy person or two jumping the fence for a photo. Look down and you’ll see an inviting natural pool at the base of the falls, where you can walk to on the Minyon Falls Loop (see below).
Closeby is a picnic area with barbecues and tables for a lovely stop in the centre of nature.
Minyon Falls Walking Track (base of the falls)
This stunning hike takes you to the base of the Minyon Falls and is a 13km round loop, taking approximately 2 – 4 hours return, depending on fitness. Remember to take light snacks and plenty of water as there are no shops along the hike, or even close to the Minyon Falls.
Dinner: Fleet Restaurant
Set on the famous coastline of Brunswick Heads, this intimate cosy restaurant has a well earned chef’s hat, recognition for its acclaim in Australia.
Greeted by the friendly Olivia into a small space with a large steel dining table and various guests seated around it, chefs Josh & Rob were delightfully showcased in action, working in the open kitchen immediately behind. We were seated at the high bar with the candle light highlighting the Australian natives that decorated the bench.
The menu is unusual compared to most fine dining menus. It lists a plethora of foods, herbs and garnishes split into sections of sea, earth and pasture, that are then made into interesting surprise dishes by the chefs. The guest’s job is to eliminate those food items that are not desired. The dishes made in this method of preparation, the ‘chefs choice’, then arrive as complete surprises in unusual and complementary combinations.
There is an option for paired wines and the ‘cheese’ option for the finale (note: must choose!) prior to the last course of dessert. With a grand total of 15 courses somehow we were not overfull. Fleet has mastered an idyllic balance of being well fed whilst walking away feeling adequately satiated. With a selection of bespoke cocktails, wines and postmeal appetisers, it’s a definite if visiting this region.
In a delightful gift after our wonderful evening, our personalised menu was emailed to us the next day:
Special mention to the expertly curated pottery and plates used throughout the meal. It was probably the most striking I’ve ever seen in a restaurant.
Wednesday
Husk Distillery & Tour, Tumbulgum
Not much beats sitting out on the lawns on a sunny day at Husk. Have a lazy morning and simple breakfast after the huge hike from yesterday. Today is a refuelling day!
The team at Husk distillery offer a 45 minute $35 tour of their distillery which occupies 150 acres of land, offering a free drink on arrival, education on delicious additions to gin (think exotic names like the angelica flower!), tastings along the way and interesting tid bits of information! You’ll also see the only Scottish still in Australia that holds 6000 litres! Specialising in gin and rum, you’ll try their ink blue gin, their Pure Cane and my favourite, spiced rum with notes of roasted wattle and sea salt, of which there are only 4000 bottles produced per year.
Priding themselves as farmers first and distillers second, Husk make their true Australian agricultural rum from the finest quality, fresh crushed cane juice grown on their farm, a one site only affair. This ‘French-style, Rhum Agricole’ approach allows tasters to experience a body and character unlike traditional molasses rums with a fresh herbal and floral aroma that is much lighter and sweeter than is traditional. Their farm location is in one of the world’s deepest calderas between the Pacific Ocean and the Gondwana Rainforest and due to its huge daily and annual temperature changes, maturation occurs much more quickly than in other regions of the world.
Best of all are the sweeping hills and outdoor slopes for children to run around on and adults to find a place to sit on their picnic blankets and devour a Husk Grazing Plate or meal from the Planter’s Kitchen menu.
Pipit Restaurant
This hatted restaurant brings coastline dining to next level standards. With a focus on sustainable local Australian produce, the menu is reflective of this and dishes are served with natives and succulents from the region. Located in Pottsville, midway between Coolangatta and Byron Bay, this restaurant is BIG in a town of only 6000. Regularly sold out, I booked our seats a month prior. The wood fired and open kitchen allows guests to view the creative process of each dish, and bar seating allows an interactive experience with the chefs.
With a long and a short set menu, it’s probably no surprise which I chose! This changes regularly with the seasons and menus can be adjusted for allergies, vegetarian and vegans alike.
After sinking back into their comfortable table settings with some friends, each course came out as a delightful surprise and as the evening progressed, we were mesmerised by Pipit’s evolving culinary story of presentation, taste and texture.
Thursday
Climb Mount Warning
The epic climb of the week will be conquered today! Mount Warning looms as an imposing figure in the backdrop from many places, both near and far, in the Northern Rivers of NSW. Many locals have various superstitions centring around the mountain and many youngsters take off on a weekend with a backpack and some mates, to enjoy life at the top for a few hours.
This strikingly sharp tipped mountain was formed from a volcanic plug of the now non existent Tweed Volcano in the Tweed Range of the Northern Rivers region of NSW. Located in the Wollumbin National Park, allow 5-6 hours to conquer this beautiful peak which allows views across the Border Rangers National Park and Nightcap National Park. Track length is 8.8km return and please note that the high, exposed summit can attract wild weather and shouldn’t be attempted in poor conditions, especially during thunderstorms. In winter, it’s especially important to start before midday to avoid a dangerous descent in the dark. Please see the NSW National Parks website for further instruction and cautions which should be taken very seriously.
Don’t forget to take plenty of snacks and water as there is nowhere to buy these once your hike has commenced! Start early in the morning and enjoy breakfast at the top.
Late lunch: Mavis’ Kitchen
Once you’ve found yourself back down from the mountain, head along to Mavis’ Kitchen for lunch, a relaxed country style kitchen and garden restaurant at the base of Wollumbin – Mt Warning. The drive in to this stunning venue is worthy in and of itself.
The gorgeous white weatherboard house at Mavis’ Kitchen has a remarkable story (ask staff for details!) and is set on a 25 acre former dairy farm within the beautiful rainforest and fertile farmland of the Tweed Valley. Note that at the time of writing, Mavis’ Kitchen is open Wednesday through Sunday from 8.30am to 3.30pm. You’ll kick yourself if you miss it! Plan to spend the afternoon here where you’ll encounter great food, quality service, impeccable views and the option to take a stroll in their vegetable gardens or perch by the lake out the back with views of your new friend, Mount Warning, in the background.
Mavis’ Kitchen delivers quality locally sourced food (from their garden) and I was greeted with a complimentary appetiser, a Jerusalem artichoke shooter, and subsequently spoiled with the Drake Creek free range locally sourced duck, grilled pineapple, seasonal greens, duck fat potatoes and dark jus. Visitors can choose from a three course set menu with matching wines, or select a la carte.
Dinner: Spice Den
This alluring restaurant in the unexpected yet stately suburb of Casuarina is a true gem away from the main strip of shops and restaurants. By far the most impressive moment of the evening is the castle-like high doors that slide apart to allow visitors entrance.
Inside the majesty is not much less: Spice Den is exactly that, flavoursome intricately prepared dishes that are designed to be shared amongst groups. I vividly remember my night there with colleagues, laughing and sharing stories over prawn crackers, deep fried spring rolls, sashimi king fish, Szechuan salted soft shell crab, green curry of prawns, brown rice, serious fried chicken…. and the most illustrious chilli margaritas.
Friday – Saturday – Sunday
There are truly just so many possibilities in this region. I have tried to keep this last weekend flexible so that you can choose from one of the itineraries below based on individual preference!
For a one day itinerary: see my post on the magical small town of Newrybar including the uber popular Harvest Café, a 15 minute drive from Byron Bay.
For a long weekend: tantalise all of your folk and hippie senses in the gorgeous beachside town of Byron Bay with stunning hinterland vistas, or instead head to the southern tip of the Gold Coast and enjoy all that Coolangatta and Tweed Heads has to offer!
