CROATIA

Three days in Dubrovnik: I can die happy

Views overlooking Dubrovnik & Lokrum Island from Mount Srđ

Overview

What can I expect to find in this post?

This post is dedicated to ensuring you have the perfect and most organised 3 day itinerary in Dubrovnik, Croatia. It contains a fun mix of cultural activities and social time. Keep scrolling for a daily outline which is further extended in the paragraphs beneath.

Why did I fall in love with Dubrovnik?

This city made me feel the same awe and wonder as when I set out on my first solo trip in my early twenties. It offered a new, fresh, exciting vibe, in a place full of history and culture, amazing restaurants and some old town city walls that I’d never come across before (but was about to encounter in most subsequent Croatian towns).

I loved waking up to have the city to myself with an undisturbed seaside breakfast before the cruise ships rolled in and thousands of tourists purged themselves to fill the same space I had previously occupied in peace and quiet. Equally enjoyable was the busyness of the day when people abounded and shops were a hub of activity. Furthermore, I adored the evenings when I could eat seafood and drink white wine overlooking a sunset of dusky pink and purple hues outlining the city walls. Top top all of this off, I was enamoured to share this with a friend.

My curiousity for this city was satiated within 24 hours of arrival yet the more time I spent in this magical place, the more I fell in love with it.

How long should I spend in Dubrovnik?

You can spend much longer in Dubrovnik than 3 days. However, this is the minimum time I’d suggest in this city. Even then it’s a rush. If you could plan 5-6 days to include the following, that would be ideal. When you arrive, you’ll know what I mean. Those narrow cobblestoned streets are just begging to be explored sans-itinerary and I’m so glad I had the extra time to do this.

Outside Lovrijenac, with the Dubrovnik Old Town City Walls in the background

Where should I eat?

Eating Out in Old Town Dubrovnik

Where are the best bars?

Best Bars in Dubrovnik Old Town

Where can I book tickets and tours?

Head to Viator which is an excellent site offering unique and iconic tours in Dubrovnik, with price comparisons listed between companies. Click here to check them out and start booking!

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What is the perfect itinerary for 3 days in Dubrovnik?

Keep scrolling as I will answer that question in detail below! But first… some logistical information.


Logistics

Advice regarding currency …

If at all possible, take out local currency (Kuna) before arriving in Dubrovnik. I have never seen such extortionate ATM conversion rates than I have within the old town! It is also worth noting that many places do not accept Euro. Dubrovnik (old town) is by and large a small retail centre and all ATMs we came across (mostly along Stradun) had similar rates.

Walking the Old Town City Walls with views of Lokrum Island

A Word on Accommodation …

In Dubrovnik, you’re either looking at staying in a hotel out of town requiring a bus ride in each day, or in a family/traditional lodging called a ‘sobe’ which is generally more ‘quaint’ and with less of the mod-cons but also within the Old Town walls. From our little abode in Old Town, we could hear the buzz from the local restaurant, music being played and the famous Bell Tower: which strikes the hour at three minutes past to remind citizens they are late!

I’d highly recommend booking through Booking.com. The site offers incredible rates and has perks for return customers such as free breakfasts and discounted stays. You can also search by map view if there’s somewhere in particular you’d prefer to stay. I’ve used them countless times and it makes communication with hotels particularly easy. Click here to check out their options!

Never short of a scenic water view: overlooking Beach Šulić
Our view from our little sobe accommodation overlooking Old Town Port, Dubrovnik

Itinerary

To save you some time, I’ve included all of the essentials into a 3 day itinerary below! The day and evening activities are easily interchangeable, depending on your energy level!

Day 1

Stroll down the Stradun (the main street of old town)
Pile & Ploče
Old Town Gates
Onofrio’s Fountain
Franciscan Monastery with Europe’s third oldest pharmacy
Rector’s Palace
Dubrovnik Cathedral
Sponza Palace
The Dominican Monastery
The Jesuit Staircase & Gundulic Square (“Walk of Shame”)
Book a restaurant in advance to treat yourself after a big day of walking (see ‘Eating out in Old Town Dubrovnik‘)

Day 2

Walk the City Walls
The Hole in the Wall Bar (Buza Bar)
Lovrijenac Palace
Relax at Banje Beach Club

Day 3

Visit Lokrum Island
Explore the city at night – seafood, wine, restaurants & bars

Outside the entrance to Lovrijenac, overlooking the Old Town City Walls

Day 1

Stradun, Pile & Ploče Gates

The main street, Stradun (or Placa Street), is approximately 300 metres long and connects the two historical gates of the city: Ploče and Pile. It’s the epicentre from which most laneways take origin until one finds themselves deeper and deeper within the cobwebbed threads of the Dubrovnik cobblestone alleyways.

Stradun, the main street of Old Town Dubrvnik, connects the two main gates: Pile & Ploče

Pile Gate is the primary entry point for most of the aforementioned cruise liners. It’s a squeeze to enter during the midday rush albeit much more decorated than Ploče at the eastern end. It’s also the site of a few famous scenes from the HBO series, Game of Thrones (see my overview of these locations in ‘Game of Thrones, Croatia’). A much more palatable option is to enter via Ploče Gate at the eastern end and leave Pile Gate until the second day.

Pile Gate, Old Town Dubrovnik

Ploče Gate is incredibly charming, on a slope and home to two magnificent restaurants, one of them Michelin star. A daily guard procession occurs and if you pressed me on where to stay, I’d say in a sobe, in Old Town, near Ploče. This gate has a remarkable stone and wooden drawbridge that is raised each night and it opens into the Old Town Port, a wonderful place to have breakfast (best pre-tourist arrival), eat icecream, photograph the city walls from below, or depart for a day trip to Lokrum Island.


Onofrio’s Fountain

Upon entering Pile Gate, you’ll find this beautiful circular domed waterpiece that was designed to deliver drinking water into the town from the River Dubrovačka 12 km away, via the aqueduct. Built in 1438, many of the sculptures adorning it were lost in the 1667 earthquake. However, some remain and the 16 carved heads through which water flows into the drainage pool now deliver pure drinking water which is safe for the tourist. Be sure to walk up the Stradun to find the ‘Little Onofrio Fountain’ which is located near the Bell Tower at the Ploče Gate end and is a popular meeting place for locals and tourists. It’s virtually impossible to photograph Large Onofrio’s Fountain sans tourist unless you’re there at the crack of dawn. For stellar views, climb the city walls above St Savior Church for a panorama down the Stradun, including Large Onofrio’s fountain.


Franciscan Monastery & Pharmacy

This large historical complex includes a monastery, church, library and pharmacy. Built in 1317 nearby the Pile Gate, the pharmacy is the oldest functioning in Europe, and the third oldest in the world. The monastery contains two cloisters. The upper cloister was built in Renaissance style, with arches and semicircular vaults. The lower cloister was built in Romanesque-Gothic style with arches, 120 columns and 12 massive pilasters and a promenade. There are multiple displays within, showcasing jewels, robes and artworks.


Rector’s Palace

This Gothic-Renaissance palace in Dubrovnik served as a seat of the Rector of the Republic of Ragusa between the 14th Century and 1808. It was also the seat of the Minor Council and the state administration. In addition to the rector’s office and private chambers, public halls and administrative offices, it housed an armoury, the powder magazine, the watch house and a dungeon. Today it is a Cultural History Museum, complete with restored rooms, portraits, coats of arms and coins, showcasing its illustrious history.

Inside the Rector’s Palace and its facade from Stradun

Dubrovnik Cathedral

It’s been a tumultous past for this iconic Dubrovnik feature, braving multiple earthquakes and the siege of Dubrovnik in 1991. It was even rebuilt at one point by English King, Richard the Lion Heart, after he was shipwrecked near Lokrum Island in 1192 on his return from the Third Crusade. Flanked by four Corinthian columns and with a central Baroque window, the facade features many statues of Saint Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Located closer to Ploče Gate, the cathedral has an interior replete with numerous old religious paintings, including the ‘Assumption of the Virgin Mary’, that is attributed to Titian. Free of charge, it’s definitely worth a look.

Dubrovnik Cathedral, Old Town

Sponza Palace

The Sponza Palace, aka Divona, was built in Gothic and Renaissance style and is a rectangular building with an inner courtyard. It has served a variety of public functions over the centuries, including as a customs office and warehouse, mint, armoury, treasury, bank and school. Currently it holds the city archives, with documents dating back to the 12th century.

View outside of Sponza Palace, looking down Stradun

The Dominican Monastery

This current day museum welcomes thousands of visitors per year and is home to some ancient relics such as jewellery, artefacts and paintings. Gothic cloisters surround a Mediterranean garden, visible through the many beautiful arches.

Steps up to the Dominican Monastery, just inside Ploče Gate

Jesuit Staircase & Gundulic Square

Dubrovnik’s answer to the Spanish steps in Rome, this Baroque staircase has been made famous in Game of Throne’s ‘Walk of Shame’ episode, featuring Cersei Lannister. Just off Gunduliceva Poljana, this master display of masonry leads up to the Jesuit Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola and 17th-century Jesuit College. This is an unmissable Dubrovnik icon and you’ll take home some insta worthy snaps.

The facade of the Jesuit Church, top right, from outside the Old Town City Walls

A Restaurant to finish your day…

Of all the days in Dubrovnik, this itinerary is jam packed and slightly overwhelming in terms of culture and history. It’s time to finish off with a relaxing candlelit dinner of fresh seafood and white wine. See my post on ‘Eating out in Dubrovnik‘ for some class ideas. If you are staying in the Old Town, may I suggest Bistro Revelin for incredible sunset views, delicious seafood and an easy walk back to your accommodation. Wherever you choose, make sure to book because the popular seats fill up fast.

Dinner views of the Old Port from Bistro Revelin near Ploce Gate

Day 2

Walk the City Walls

Of all activities I engaged in Dubrovnik, this was by far my favourite. What could be better than a climb, some gentle exercise, scenes of a terracotta rooved city below, photographic angles of the stone walls that are unreachable from elsewhere, a glance in upon local life within the fortified city, stretching views across to Lokrum Island and a couple of hidden bars to quench your thirst in the hot midday sun?

The Old Town City Walls as seen from Lovrijenac Palace
Dubrovnik City Walls on the left and Lovrijenac Palace on the right

The walk comes with various restrictions: once you enter the city walls, you must complete it in one effort. There are various entry and exit points if it becomes to much in the hot midday sun but you are not allowed to reenter on the same ticket. It’s worth taking some planning for this bucketlist item and that is why I’ve placed it at the beginning of day two. Don’t skimp on this one.

Lokrum Island from nearby Salvatore cafe

If you start early, you can finish the City Walls tour in a couple of hours including an hour at Dubrovnik’s iconic Buza Bar, before you leave the City Walls for Lovrijenac. Tourists can also buy ‘all in one’ passes to walk the city walls and allow entry into Lovrijenac. This is definitely worthwhile and costs 200 Croatian Kuna. Make sure to check the official website for entry times as this changes based on the seasons.


Buza Bar

Buza bar (the ‘hole in the wall’ bar) is as famous as they come. Views from this Mediterranean style bar are magnificent and span from Lokrum Island around to Lovrijenac Palace. See my post on ‘Best Bars in Dubrovnik Old Town‘ for further details, tips and when / when not to visit this iconic locale.

Views from Buza Bar of Lokrum Island and tourists atop the Dubrovnik Old Town City Walls

Lovrijenac Palace

Also known as ‘Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar’, this important stronghold allowed the people of Dubrovnik to hold claim to their city against the Venetians. Perched 37 metres above sea level, this fortress outside the western wall of Dubrovnik which overshadows both sea and land entrances to the city, was the site upon which the Venetians had planned to build. Instead, the Croats constructed Lovrijenac in 3 months and told them to take a hike when the Venetians finally arrived to build the same.

Inside Lovrijenac Palace

Lovrijenac is triangular shaped with 3 terraces and impeccable sweeping views across the Old Town. In fact, if you take a wander around the base of Lovrijenac before ascending the steps to the entry, you’ll find a gamete of interesting photography vantage points.

It sits high atop a hill overlooking the water on both sides. I sat under a pine tree for about an hour before entry, just soaking in the scenes of the city outlined in front of me. It’s an ideal place to take a picnic and just soak in the completely astounding views of Dubrovnik. Entry is 50 Kuna, or as mentioned, can be included in a ticket to walk the city walls.

Panoramic views over Dubrovnik Old City and Lokrum Island from Lovrijenac Palace

It is also an important feature in Game of Thrones (see here).


Banje Beach Club

Perched alongside the Old Town Port, this visually stunning venue offers various delights at different times of the day or night. It offers sunbathing beds looking over the Adriatic Sea during the day, a romantic seafood restaurant in the evening and a pumping nightclub in the wee hours of the morning. See here for more details on Banje Beach Club. It’s versatility and location make it a must for any Dubrovnik itinerary.

Banje Beach Club from the Old Town Walls

Day 3

Lokrum Island

Lokrum Island is reached by ferry from Porporela, the Old Port of Dubrovnik, some 600 metres from the mainland. In the peak of summer, boats leave half hourly and the trip is approximately 15 minutes. The cost is around 40 Kuna. It’s feasible to go for a few hours but to make the most of the possible experiences on the island, I’d suggest planning at least a half day, or a full day if you have the time.

Map of Lokrum Island with significant sights

A relaxing change of pace from Dubrovnik, Lokrum offers a peace and tranquility amongst its pine, cypress and olive trees, with the option to get up close and personal with wildlife such as rabbits and peacocks. Locals and visitors swim off of the shoreline and I saw a couple of picnics on the go.

There is a cafe and a restaurant at the island centre, complete with snacks and refreshments.

For Game of Thrones fans, a replica of the Iron Throne was donated by HBO to the City of Dubrovnik and resides on Lokrum Island. Be prepared to line up for your picture to sit on it!

When visiting Lokrum Island, plan on visiting the following:

  • Botanical Gardens
  • Benedictine Monastery Complex
  • Fort Royal
  • The Celestian Way
  • The Church of Announcement
  • The Dead Sea

The peak of the Fort Royal has some impeccable views across the island and of the Benedictine Monastery, as well as reaching across to mainland Dubrovnik.

Sweeping views down the Island of Lokrum and of Dubrovnik from Fort Royal

While awaiting the return ferry, visitors can enjoy lounging about at the Lacroma Snack Bar, close to the ferry dock. We treated ourselves to the cocktail of the day: Rosemary Gin & Tonic. You’ll welcome a refreshment such as this in the height of a Croatian summer!

A refreshing Rosemary Gin & Tonic on Lokrum Island on a hot Croatian day

Mount Srđ

Ok instagrammers. This is your time to shine. If you have photography in your bones, you can not let this opportunity pass.

There are a few ways to the top, namely:

  1. Cable Car (aka funicular, gondola, chair lift)
  2. Bus #17 from Pile Gate (from the small median in the centre of the road) to the mountain town of Bosanka (requires a short uphill trek to the top)
  3. Hiking (allow approx 45-60 minutes)
  4. Private tour
  5. Uber / Taxi
Find a solitary space and just take in the wonder of this town

If you ask me, the top 3 are the best for views. Hiking would require a few additional hours so if you’re tight on time, definitely go with the Cable Car. The bus is cheaper than the cable car yet still provides incredible views. At the time of writing, a round trip on the Cable Car is 170 Kuna. Be sure to check operational times which vary with season and are weather dependent.

Overlooking Lokrum Island and Dubrovnik Old Town

We caught the cable car up around 4pm, which allowed enough time to capture the day view over Old Town Dubrovnik, whilst simultaneously setting up a time lapse for the stunning sunset that was to come. Find a spot to yourself, set up camp and just enjoy the evening overlooking what is truly one of the most unique cities you’ll ever visit.

Views at the top of Mount Srđ

Mount Srđ reveals breathtaking views over the Old City, the mesmerising Adriatic Sea and various islands, including Lokrum. There are numerous shops of interest at the top, as well as a restaurant with panoramic views. Also at the peak is the Imperial Fortress and, on a clear day, visibility stretches to 60 km, which provided a strategic vantage point. The Cable Car was constructed in 1969 and has seen millions of passengers to the top since its first ascent.


Explore the Old City at night

Dubrovnik comes alive in the evening. There’s a gentle hum in the air and the town feels like it’s somehow swaying to a happy beat. On our last evening in the Old Town, we headed out and about, which you can read the details of here.

Old Town Dubrovnik at night, from atop Mount Srđ