UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

Quirky Umm Al Quwain

Overview

For a relaxed but quirky trip away in the United Arab Emirates, look no further than Umm Al Quwain. The UAE’s second smallest emirate is quiet and unassuming but it sure does have some unique offerings for tourists! Fancy going on a hunt for a hidden shipwreck? Or being puzzled by the random Russian plane left deserted in the desert? Or marvelling at thousands of small fish jumping at the surface in unison? Umm Al Quwain has all of these extraordinarily unusual sights and more, whilst also providing some quality beach hotels with luxury pools and pristine coastline. You’ll feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of Dubai.

The shipwreck in Umm Al Quwain

Where is Umm Al Quwain?

Umm Al Quwain is just over one hours drive from Dubai and just over 2 hours drive from Abu Dhabi.

Google Maps image of Umm Al Quwain in relation to Abu Dhabi and Dubai, UAE

How do I get to Umm Al Quwain?

There is no functioning airport in Umm Al Quwain, so visitors will be required to transit from Abu Dhabi or Dubai. Buses depart from both of these cities. However I’d highly recommend hiring a car as there is no reliable public transport in Umm Al Quwain. You’ll need a 4×4 for some of the activities in this itinerary.

Where should I stay in Umm Al Quwain?

We stayed in Vida Beach Resort, which was stylish, modern and everything you’d expect from a middle eastern 5-star hotel. The long stretch of uninterrupted beach was thoroughly relaxing for adults and the infinity pool seemed a hit with families and children. It’s listed as ‘dog friendly’ but this was tastefully managed and I only saw the pooches outside or at their own designated spot on the beach.

There are fewer resort options in Umm Al Quwain compared to other larger emirates in the UAE, however options include Marjan Island Resort & Spa and Flamingo Beach Resort.

The relaxing private beach at Vida Beach Resort, Umm Al Quwain

What other information can I read on UAE?

If you’ve got extra time in the UAE, or better yet live in the UAE, then check out some of the other amazing trips available in this country of contrasts, beauty and luxury!

Dubai

Dazzling Dubai in 4 Days
Best stopover hotels & restaurants in and near Dubai International Airport (DXB)
Excitement in Dubai Desert: the Bedouin Day Package at Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa
Dubai’s Little Venice: Madinat Jumeirah

Abu Dhabi

Abu Dhabi highlights in 4 days
Sir Bani Yas Island & Safari Escape
Zaya Nurai Island Resort Escape
A day trip to Al Ain and Jebel Hafeet
Saadiyat Island Beach Staycation
A Private Luxury Resort in the UAE Desert: Qasr Al Sarab by Anantara
Al Wathba Desert Resort & Spa: a luxury experience in Abu Dhabi

Fujairah

Exploring the east coast emirate of Fujairah, UAE (and snorkelling around Snoopy Island!)

Ras Al Khaimah

Pristine beaches, Jebel Jais mountain and the longest zipline in the world: this is Ras Al Khaimah, UAE!


Umm Al Quwain Itinerary

Marvel at the huge sailfish statue
Find the hidden shipwreck
Visit the abandoned Russian cargo plane (Iluysin IL76 aircraft)
Kayak the beautiful mangroves
See the Socotra cormorants, Arabian gazelles, falcons & turtles on Sinniyah Island
Partake in a Dhow Building Yard Tour
Relax at Vida Hotel private beach
See the flamingos, barracudas and schools of fish at Flamingo Beach Resort
Explore the backstreet simple village life
Take the family to Dreamland Aqua Park, UAE’s largest water park

The abandoned Russian cargo plane by the Umm Al Quwain highway

Marvel at the huge sailfish statue

At the major roundabout entering Umm Al Quwain is this huge sailfish statue! It’s a notable tribute to the abounding number of fish in the region.

Sailfish statue to greet visitors to Umm Al Quwain

Find the hidden shipwreck

Listed as ‘Wrecked Ship Umm Al Quwain’ on Google Maps, this little gem is tricky to find and off the beaten track but hey, doesn’t adventure involve a little risk?! A 4×4 is a must for this!

We found our way to the Sheikh Zayed Mosque in Umm Al Quwain and then realised we would be off roading! From the mosque, you’ll find various dirt tracks leading off from the bituminised road. This first section of the path is on compact hard ground however it leads to a sand dune which you’ll have to skirt alongside and this section definitely requires a 4WD. Even then, we felt a little unsteady on the drive so consider deflating the tyre pressure a little. At the end of the sand dune is a small car park / roundabout where you can leave the vehicle.

Red arrow indicating the drive from the Sheikh Zayed Mosque in Umm Al Quwain, through the sand to the Wrecked Ship of Umm Al Quwain

From here you’ll need to walk around an uneven piece of ground to make your way down to the beach. The shipwreck is accessible from shore and I’ve seen photos of people having climbed up onto it although we decided to stay safe on terra firma.

Shipwreck at Umm Al Quwain

Visit the abandoned Russian cargo plane 

A most most intriguing questions plagues the minds of most who visit Umm Al Quwain:

How on earth did a Russian cargo plane end up stranded in the desert?

The abandoned Iluysin IL76 has been collecting dust on the outskirts of the closed Umm Al Quwain airfield near the Barracude Beach Resort for over 20 years. Reports say it landed there in late 1999. An archived YouTube video recently resurfacing online which shows the Soviet-era aircraft appearing out of the clouds and then landing in a puff of desert dust clouds. It’s reported the sandstorm it created was so enormous that it completely covered the neighbouring E11 highway.

The abandoned Russian cargo plane on the left and E11 highway on the right

Where in Umm Al Quwain is the Ilyushin IL-76 located?

What was the original function of the Ilyushin IL-76?

The four engine turbofan aircraft, which also went by the Nato operating name ‘Candid’, first flew for the Soviets in the 1970s as a replacement for the equally legendary Antonov 12. It was particularly useful for remote areas where it could operate on unpaved runways. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, it became a charter operating in the 1990s until last being registered to Centrafrican Airlines from 1998 to 2000.

Centrafrican was connected to the notorious Tajik arms dealer, Viktor Bout, an arms dealer whose planes carried cargo and arms from Eastern Europe via the Middle East, to Africa. It is believed the plane operated between Sharjah and Ras Al Khaimah. He was subsequently banned from the UAE in the early 2000s, arrested in Thailand in 2008 and is currently serving a 25 year jail sentence in the USA. Speculation is that the pilot who flew the Ilyushin IL-76 into the Umm Al Quwain desert initially refused because only 3 of 4 engines were working. He was then offered $20,000 which sold the deal.

Why is it laying abandoned in Umm Al Quwain?

Theories abound to this multi million dollar question but the most widely held belief is that Bout sold the plane to a UAE advertising company when it became suitable for the scrap heap. The purpose? Either to convert it into a restaurant or be used as a mega billboard along the highway. Signs for the local Palma Beach Hotel can be seen painted on it to this day. More boring suggestions include: it was landed by accident, it was purchased for scrap metal or that it was landed in an emergency setting due to low fuel.

The Ilyushin IL-76

Kayak the beautiful mangroves

The emirate of Umm Al Quwain has rich coastal mangroves on the Arabian Gulf, perfect for kayaking or stand up paddle boarding. The clear, calm waters of the mangrove reserve are shallow and suit both beginners and the advanced. It’s possible to spot rays, turtles and other marine life.

Boats gliding on the crystal clear shallow waters of Umm Al Quwain with mangroves in the distance

See the Socotra cormorants, Arabian gazelles, falcons & turtles on Sinniyah Island

A plethora of islands lie to the east of the mainland which can be accessed by day trips. One of the most popular is Sinniyah Island, home to Arabian gazelles, falcons and turtles.

A boat at the edge of Sinniyah Island

Partake in a Dhow Building Yard Tour

Dhow boats were used for pearl diving, fishing and trade, which were the main drivers of the UAE economy before the discovery of oil and gas. The dhow is considered one of the iconic emblems of the UAE and visitors can gain a glimpse into the early art of dhow making in the Umm Al Quwain Dhow Yard. The incredible manual skills and traditional tools that were used have been handed down through the generations.


Relax at Vida Hotel private beach

Vida Beach Resort is a delightfully modern hotel within central Umm Al Quwain, amidst a host of other slightly dated hotels. Its uber chic decor, pastel interior tones and rooftop bar have all the trappings for a lush stay. Not to mention its stunning outdoor infinity pool and direct private beach access.

I found the hotel pool to be inundated with children and families and for some peaceful relaxation found my way to the beach to recline on a sun lounge and read a book. There are a few sunbeds at the end of the beach which is a ‘dog friendly zone’, for those wanting to spoil their pets on a weekend away. The breakfast and buffet dinner options at Vida Beach Resort were impeccable.


See the flamingos, barracudas and schools of fish at Flamingo Beach Resort

This unassuming 3-star resort on the outskirts of Umm Al Quwain has some surprising wildlife options to offer! The outdoor landscaping is stunning, with a pool surrounded by bright flower beds and sunbeds facing towards the ocean.

Additionally, Flamingo Beach Resort offers boat tours to see wild flamingos in the mangroves, best seen in the early morning and evening. We missed this tour unfortunately but did manage to see huge schools of fish in the water which were incredibly jumping into the air, as well as some long snouted barracudas.


Explore the backstreet simple village life

Take some time out to explore the backstreets of Umm Al Quwain. You’ll discover some fascinating architecture that is distinct to the region, complete with traditional home design and intricately decorated front gates. It’s simple, rustic and dusty but charming in its own right. You’ll encounter authentic Emirati life much more accurately here than in the larger cities of Dubai and Abu Dhabi which largely run rampant with expatriate workers.

Umm Al Quwain village life and traditional homes

Take the family to Dreamland Aqua Park, UAE’s largest water park

For families and children, this is the place to be! Dreamland Aqua Park features an oasis of palm trees and green turf, with more than 30 thrilling slides, rides and attractions.