Mahe Magic in the Seychelles
Overview
It seemed a little too good to be true when we finally arrived at the glorious Kempinski Resort on Mahe Island, the main island of the archipelago that comprises the Seychelles. The lush green rainforest, swaying palms, white sands, rhythmic tides and lemongrass and ginger welcome drinks belied the reality of our mission to get to this picture perfect paradise, made infinitesmally more complex due to the Covid pandemic and additional safety precautions and PCR tests that were required.
That being said, once we arrived, we were transported into “para- para- para-DISE”!
Notable islands within the Seychelles
There are 3 main inhabited islands amongst the 115 that comprise Seychelles: Mahe, Praslin and La Digue (see these links for my write ups on Praslin Island, Praslin Restaurants and La Digue Island). However the other islands definitely demand attention (see more in my post Seychelles Island Hopping – Cousin, Curieuse & St Pierre)! Set in the Indian Ocean off of the east coast of Africa, the Seychelles has an approximate population of 98,000 and the capital is Victoria which lies on Mahe. Granted independence in 1976, the Seychelles are part of the Commonwealth.
In addition to all this of course, the Seychelles is a jaw dropping and heavenly tropical paradise which provides travellers a complete reprieve from the ordinary and fuels a desire to rest within nature with a cocktail at the ready and swimmers on for when the overwhelming need to cool off in a hotel pool or the warm Indian Ocean comes a calling. The islands are replete with nature hikes, water sports and incredible wildlife such as the centuries old Aldabra tortoises and the Green and Hawksbill Turtles which come in to nest between October and February.
Traveling in current Covid times…
On Arrival
For a more complete arrival guide to the Seychelles, see my post Seychelles Survival Kit.
- Money: local currency is the Seychellois Rupee and can be withdrawn from various cash point machines at the terminal. Most hotels accept credit card for payments but a small amount of cash is helpful for tips and smaller local store purchases.
- Transport: options are reasonably limited to taxi or hire car for transit to accommodation; or internal flight or ferry to other islands (or an organised day trip). On Mahe, it’s definitely worth hiring a car if you wish to see more of the island. We drove around the entire island at leisure one day, pulling in to beaches of our choice, only possible with a hire car.
- Phone data: SIM cards and data are available at the terminal. You’ll have wifi access at most hotels but it’s worthwhile having a point of connection whilst on rural trips and island hopping.
Unmissable Highlights
Drive around the island in a day
Sunset at Baie Lazare
Tour of Mahe’s Capital, Victoria – Clock Tower, Victoria Museum, Botanical Gardens, Market
Explore Eden Island
Beau Vallon Beach
Mirante la Misere Viewpoint
Venn Mountain Lodge Ruins
Hike Morne Blanc Summit (Morne Seychellois National Park)
Anse Major Trail Hike
Trois Frerez Hike
Port Glaud and Port Glaud Lagoon
Grand Anse
Anse Boileau
Cap Ternay
Sunset at Anse A La Mouche
Island Thyme Farm Shop
Turtle Bay
Petit Police Bay
Police Bay
Takamaka Distillery
Accommodation
Luxury resort escape – Kempinski Resort
Premium self catering option – Villas de Jardin
Luxury Resort Escape – Kempinski
There is nothing more decadent than checking in to a luxury 5 star resort in the middle of a remote collection of islands. There are a few top choices on Mahe Island in the Seychelles, which made selection extremely difficult! To be fair, we were required to ‘quarantine’ within the resort for 5 days and 6 nights per Seychelles Covid-19 stipulations. Complete access to facilities within the bounds of the hotel were allowed, thus we went with Kempinski as this was top of most lists on our Google searches, as well as being nestled at the base of a large climbable mountain and home to large grounds with a private beach.
What are the benefits in staying at Kempinski?
Kempinski allowed us plenty of space to roam, hike, enjoy kayak sessions, set up time-lapses on the beach, photograph the Aldabra tortoises, find a secluded sun bed with a cocktail, swim in the divine pool and capture enthralling picturesque views across the secluded bay of Baie Lazare.
Our room at Kempinski Resort in Mahe Island in the Seychelles fronted onto the lagoon which was lined with large characteristic Seychellois boulders and palm trees which held ripening coconuts in their branches whilst sheltering those that had fallen to the ground.
Seated on the comfortable cane chairs on our wood deck balcony had us feeling as if we were the only two visitors on the island. Capped off with a cocktail made from the local Takamaka rum and some fresh local fruit, we were revelling in the warm (and humid!) tropical atmosphere.
Kempinski Villa Room Facilities
Facilities in the rooms were decadent; including Salvatore Ferragamo shampoo and conditioner, Nescafe machines and coffee pods, a stocked minibar (which only incurs a charge if you wish to replenish the items), fresh tropical fruit, a smart TV with many channels, large king poster beds with mosquito netting, designer artwork, solid wooden furniture settings and two glass feature doors that lead onto a generous balcony. Lockable deposit boxes allow valuables to be stored safely.
Kempinski Resort Facilities
Kempinski resort offers various activities such as ‘yoga on the hill’, tennis courts, table tennis, an exercise gym and a dive centre. In the evenings, there is live music in the Planters Bar to accompany happy hour between 6 and 7pm with 2 for 1 drinks! We were fortunate to visit during December and were treated to Christmas carols by a complete choir as well as a jazz band on other evenings.
For relaxed drinks and delicious fare during the day, take a trip to Windsong Beach Restaurant or L’Indochine. Buffet dinners in the evening are presented at Cafe Lazare or you can spoil a special someone with a romantic dinner for 2 on the sand.
There’s also an Aldabra tortoise enclosure. Much to our surprise we saw one of them roll onto its back in the water tank and then witnessed the keepers helping him back to safety! There was truly so much for us to absorb in 6 days and it was a difficult departure indeed. Fortunately there was still so much more for us to discover on the amazing Seychelles Island of Mahe!
Below: Making friends with the Aldabra tortoises
Below: The view at sunset over Baie Lazare from Kempinski mountain
Premium self catering option – Villas de Jardin
Located on the north-west coast of Mahe, these self contained villas come with stunning views across Port Glaud and at the base of Morne Blanc, the most iconic mountain on the island.
Villas are perched up on the hill and boast expansive back decking that creates the ultimate feeling of seclusion and intimacy. They boast large open living rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the lush tropics and azure waters.
Middle: relaxed living at Villas de Jardin
Bottom: the striking image of Morne Blanc from the infinity pool at Villas de Jardin
Villas De Jardin facilities
Facilities include: a mini bar fridge, microwave, small stove cook top and cooking utensils and cutlery. The air-conditioning is largely confined to the bedroom thus living areas can be quite stifling. A private infinity pool is a welcome addition and allows a lovely cool down.
The hosts are extremely helpful and welcoming and this location in the Seychelles is ideal for those wishing to hike some of Mahe Island’s most well known tracks.
Drive around the island in a day
Whilst arranging a taxi or private driver is possible, it really does not allow the impromptu stops and pauses and feeling of seclusion on Mahe as compared to hiring a car and enjoying the island at your own pace and leisure. It’s possible to drive the entire island in a day which we did and this provided a sense of the size, layout and culture of Mahe Island, whilst inspiring us with ideas in the Seychelles for the days to come. Below are the highlights from these drives and my best recommendations for your time on this beautiful island!
Sunset at Baie Lazare
Largely monopolised by Kempinski Resort, this phenomenally beautiful beach has possibly the best sunset view of all beaches we saw on Mahe. It’s worth finding your way to a sun bed for the afternoon, with intermittent dips in the ocean between small kips beneath the sun. When the sun starts to descend, you’re in for a real treat.
Tour of Victoria – Clock Tower, Victoria Museum, Botanical Gardens, Market
The town centre of Victoria, the capital of Mahe, is quite small but the hub of cultural buildings. This includes the glistening silver clock tower (aka ‘Mini Big Ben’) in the city centre and the informative Victoria Museum. The Botanical Gardens and local markets are also nearby. I wouldn’t plan to spend more than about half a day here. There’s just so much more to see!
Explore Eden Island
Eden Island is an island accessible from the mainland showcasing an elite mix of upmarket apartments and residential housing. The public can access entities such as shopping centres and restaurants, however only residents can access suburbia. There’s a large parking area if you have a hire car and you can spend some time gaining an appreciation for this extraordinary reclaimed coral reef.
Beau Vallon Beach
The heart and hub of nightlife and great cuisine, Beau Vallon has an energy that is inescapable. Set on the beachfront, there are some wonderful restaurants to try in this region, such as La Plage, The Boat House and Gecko Bar. The tree lined walkway along the beach front is also one for the romantics amongst us.
Mirante la Misere Viewpoint
This viewpoint provides lovely views across Victoria and the eastern coast of Mahe and is easily accessible by car, with no hiking required. There are much more incredible views on Mahe Island in the Seychelles though… keep reading
Venn Mountain Lodge Ruins
The Venn Lodge Ruins is one of only a few significant cultural sites to visit in the Seychelles. Initially set up as an industrious school by the Church Missionary society between 1876 – 1889, it housed children of liberated slaves. It was used for vanilla and cocoa cultivation and ruins of the houses, washrooms, kitchens, labourer huts and storerooms can be seen today.
The last liberated African people landed in Seychelles in 1875 and the Institution eventually took in children born of African parents who worked as labourers on various plantations. The viewing lodge was inaugurated on March 20, 1972 by Queen Elizabeth II and her husband the Duke of Edinburgh, on which day they sat and enjoyed some tea overlooking the sights from on high.
Top R: the viewing lodge where QEII enjoyed a cuppa tea with the Duke of Edinburgh at its inauguration
Below: Even the Seychelles has introduced the panoramic picture frame!
Hike Morne Blanc Summit, within the Morne Seychellois National Park
From our accommodation at Villas De Jardin, we had seen the ominous and looming peak of Morne Blanc every morning from our balcony. Standing at an impressive 667metres high, the entrance to this (mostly uphill!) trail is from Sans Soucis Road, about 300metres from the old tea plantation entrance. The hike requires at least a moderate level of fitness, with the majority of it being steep and uphill. One saving grace is that it is largely covered and the trail will take you through a beautiful misty forest. The beginning of the track is very well demarcated however the top is a little unclear and we were required to backtrack on occasion due to the lack of signage. Once at the top of this amazing peak in the Seychelles, the views across the western coast of Mahe Island are simply unparalleled.
Anse Major Trail Hike
The internet is replete with varying descriptions of this trail, some positive and some negative. I’d say that if you have a decent level of fitness, you’ll absolutely love it and find it quite straightforward. Anse Major Trail winds its way from just beyond Beau Vallon beach, along the rocky northwestern coastline of Mahe, to the secluded and small beach of Anse Major.
Along the way, you’ll clamber over rocky outcrops, follow old water pipes and negotiate your way through dense vegetation, all the while overlooking the deep blue ocean and Silhouette Island.
Main issues with this trail:
- The lack of parking. With no designated parking spaces, there were possibly 4 or 5 little nooks that one could park a small car. We were fortunate to be hiking during the height of the Covid pandemic which meant that tourist numbers were low. Otherwise it would be a challenge to park here on a busy day.
- The exposed nature of the trail. Aside from a 10 minute foray through a forest near the end of the track, most of this hike is done in the full force of the harsh sun. It’s definitely a must to take a hat, suncream and plenty of water.
All will agree however, that it’s a truly scenic walk and the reward at the end is worth it: the intimate beach of Anse Major.
Trois Frerez Hike
This hike was one of the lesser well publicised trails, however probably one of my favourite, particularly for the unobstructed views across the eastern coast of Mahe. There are pristine and sweeping views of Saint-Anne Marine National Park island, Ile au Cerf, Eden Island, the capital Victoria and the Marina. It’s possible to see all the way from Beau Vallon down to the southern tip of Mahe. In addition to this, is the feeling of immersion within the mountain, which rises up behind the viewing platform and overshadows hikers with its impressive form.
We had some difficulty finding the entrance to this track and after finding ourselves in what appeared to be someone’s backyard, we backtracked and eventually found it. This is a common theme in the Seychelles: there are many beautiful tracks to walk but minimal signage and very unclear parking areas. We parked in a gravel cul de sac near the Sans Souci Forestry Station.
R: visibility to the east coast of Mahe, with Beau Vallon beach in view
Much of this hike is under the cover of dense rainforest which provides some relief from the heat. The final 20 minutes is a clamber up small rocky pathways, with chains to assist hikers on their ascent. Eventually, you’ll come to a small hut with the prize of the stunning view. Take a moment here to relax, have a snack and take in one of Mother Nature’s best.
Port Glaud Beach & Port Glaud Lagoon
Port Glaud is a beautiful beach, popular with the locals and was less densely populated with tourists compared with other beaches in our time on Mahe. It’s close to the main road and nearby the local shops, making it the perfect location to venture over for a delicious ice cream on a hot day!
This sheltered lagoon is just beyond the beach and can be accessed via its southern end. It’s perfect for an afternoon picnic and swim as the water is shallow and calm, with an interesting view of the old abandoned Mahe Beach Hotel.
Grand Anse
You’ll likely drive past this beach countless times, from its central position on the west coast of Mahe. It’s one of the longest white sand beaches and perfect for an afternoon stroll, although not ideal for swimming due to the strong undertow.
Anse Boileau
This long stretch of beach is yet another glorious place to spend a day. It was a little overcast when we drove by. We didn’t stay long here but could easily have!
Cap Ternay
Following the eastern coast to the northern tip, along Cap Ternay Road, is an exquisite drive, past many beautiful bays and coves, until finally reaching Cap Ternay.
This is as far as one can drive up the east coast. A small walk will take you across the neck to Baie Ternay Beach. You’ll walk past some abandoned buildings, remnants of an old school for children with special needs. This section of Mahé truly feels like you’ve found yourself in an episode of Lost.
The shore stretches a reasonable length and the water is shallow and warm. The protected bay inlet also means that the ocean is quite calm, perfect for a quick dip.
Sunset at Anse A La Mouche
Amidst kite surfers, seasoned swimmers, moored boats bobbing gently in the tides and swaying palm trees, find your spot on the sand and relax.
The view is quite similar to Baie Lazare but there’s more of a local vibe with direct public access to the beach. Stay for a sunset, stop for a minute and breathe in the fresh air.
Island Thyme Farm Shop
This little food mecca was a real treat to stumble across, selling healthy, local, grass-fed and farm-fresh produce. It was particularly wonderful to stumble across during our time spent self-catering. With a large array of South African products such as boerewors, biltong and droëwors; as well as my favourite Vergelegen chardonnay, this was a wonderful find.
Turtle Bay
Turtle Bay is an expansive sweeping section of coast line along the east of Mahe that is shallow and protected from the open ocean by a coral reef. This makes the beach incredibly popular with locals and tourists alike, perfect for swimming, snorkelling, kitesurfing and windsurfing. It is close to the main road and has an associated car park.
It’s a great place to spend the day with a picnic and a relaxing stroll along the sand. You’ll find plenty of crabs but sadly not many turtles, despite the name!
Petit Police Bay
For the adventurous ones, you’ll want to head along Chemin Grande Police road to the southern tip of Mahe, where your first port of call is Petit Police Bay. The topography of this beach is incredibly interesting, however one glance at the sharp scaly rocks on the shoreline and you’ll be heavily cautioned away from swimming. The sunset views from this beach are not short of remarkable.
Police Bay
Continue along the path past Petit Police Bay and you’ll find yourself along a track towards Police Bay. This is one of the most beautiful and secluded white sand beaches on Mahe Island in the Seychelles. It’s clean and lends to a perfect place to spend the day with some fresh juice and a picnic lunch. Beware of swimming here as the tides are strong and waves can be rough.
Enjoy a glass of rum at Takamaka Distillery
Sadly, this had closed on our return to Mahé due to Covid restrictions but it is truly a must do and was recommended by locals and tourists alike. Despite the distillery being closed, we certainly still enjoyed our fair share of Takamaka! Aged in French and American oak barrels, Takamaka’s rums are then blended with other aged rums, local spices, fruit extracts and Mahé’s amazing spring water, to create a truly special tipple.
