Exploring the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia

Overview

Welcome to the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia: home to the triplet cities of Al Khobar, Dammam and Dhahran, as well as striking geological formations and large expanses of desert and oil fields! This is Saudi Arabia’s largest province by land mass. The eastern region of Saudi Arabia showcases a vast landscape of predominantly sand and desert, quite unlike its western counterpart which is monopolised by rocky mountainous outcrops. It begins with the shallow Arabian gulf that stretches through the desert to the Al Ahsa Oasis and onwards to the forbidding plains of the Rub Al Khali (Empty Quarter). This post is designed to showcase the highlights of the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia in a weekend trip.

Historical relevance

For centuries, the Eastern Province has had an important position along the trade route due to its position at the crossroads of the great civilizations of the Levant, Mesopotamia and India. Merchants would use the inland route to transit expensive goods such as frankincense and incense.

Current day

Today, the region’s economic activity is largely dominated by Aramco’s oil and gas wells. Saudi Arabia is one of the top suppliers of oil in the world and as part of this itinerary, you’ll travel across the world’s largest oil field!

For my first impressions of Saudi Arabia, don’t miss these write ups!

The journey to the Eastern Province was my second visit to Saudi Arabia but I’ve also written extensively about my first trip, The Best of Saudi Arabia in 5 Fabulous Days. This post details some of the important cultural and religious sensitivities to consider pre-departure and whilst travelling. During this 5 day sojourn I visited Riyadh’s The Edge of the World, jeep toured through Wadi Al Disah and explored the UNESCO sites of Diriyah, Al Ula and Hegra. This was an epic adventure and I’d highly recommend it for stunning landscapes, thrill-seeker activities, friendly local people and an immersive cultural introduction to this oft misunderstood country.

A typical Saudi scene: men in discussion

Itinerary

Evening

Arrive Dammam
Overnight: Le Meridien Khobar Corniche

Day 1

Seaside breakfast at Cafe Bateel, Khobar Corniche
Cross the largest oil field in the world, Ghawar
Al Ahsa Oasis
Al Qarah Mountain Caves, Al Ahsa
Climb to the top of the Al Qarah Mountain formations
Al Uqair Port & Warehouse
Al Uqair Fort: Souq & Accommodation
Dinner at Entrecôte, Ithra, Dhahran
Outside garden and Ithra laser light show
Overnight: Le Meridien Khobar Corniche

Day 2

Explore Ithra (King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture), Dhahran
Visit the Khobar water tower
Walk along Khobar Corniche
Lunch at the Adjan Walk Precinct
Afternoon drink at Dugheiser Leisure Island, Khobar
Dinner: La Mer Lounge & Restaurant, Khobar

If Time Allows

Add these options to your itinerary if you can!

Alfan Sharqy Bayoniya Street Art Museum
Scitech museum
Taybeen Museum
Energy Exhibit, Ithra

Top: Al Uqair Warehouse, Middle: Al Khobar Water Tower & Corniche, Bottom: Ithra Centre, Dhahran

Day 1

Seaside breakfast at Cafe Bateel, Matal Complex, Khobar Corniche

Today is jam-packed with sightseeing and exploring and Cafe Bateel is the perfect place to kickstart your day! The extensive and intricately-crafted all day breakfast menu is enough to have you salivating before even stepping foot in the door. The entrance is a little confusing but you’ll find a small elevator where guests should alight at level one. An amazing interior awaits! Bright, open-air and with sweeping views across the Arabic gulf, patrons have the choice of sitting inside or outside although it feels contiguous due to the large open doors. Coffee connoisseurs will love the variety and foodies are in for a real treat.

Matal Restaurant Complex, with Cafe Bateel on the first floor

We went with two Cafe Bateel specialties:

Italian Faranita Pancakes – poached eggs with chickpea and parmesan pancakes with red pepper piperade and avocado, topped with cannellini beans, olives and tomato salsa.
Date French Toast – French toast infused with Bateel’s vanilla date dhibs, serve with date icecream, fresh berries and caramelised pecans.

Brunch overlooking the Arabian Gulf at Cafe Bateel

Guests have the option of multiple breakfast eateries in the huge Matal complex. Have a look around to check out the other venues!

Various cafes at the Matal Complex, Khobar Corniche

Cross the largest oil field in the world, Saudi Aramco

After breakfast it’s time to hit the road as today is a big day of sightseeing. The first major stop is Al Ahsa Oasis but to get there, you’re going to cross the world’s largest oil field at Ghawar! This massive oil field owned by Saudi Aramco accounts for a third of the country’s oil production. The drive itself is mostly sand and low scrubland but you’ll encounter a few of the operational plants along the way and it’s quite amazing thinking that you’re driving over billions of barrels of oil reserves!

Landscapes in Saudi Arabia while crossing the largest oil field in the world

Al Ahsa Oasis

From here you’ll continue along the highway to the largest governorate in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia, Al Ahsa (pronounced Al Hasa locally). It’s major city is Hofuf. The translation of these names are beautifully poetic: Al Ahsa means ‘murmuring streams’ and Hofuf translates as ‘whistling wind’. You’ll be privy to both of these sounds as you wander around the oasis and surrounding mountains.

Fun Fact!
At around 85.4 km², Al Ahsa Oasis is the largest in the world! It contains over 2.5 million palm trees!

The palms are sustained by a huge underground aquifer that is irrigated by the flow of more than 280 artesian springs. The aquifer has an impermeable base layer, so that water is collected beneath the sand layer and remains trapped above the impermeable layer. The extraordinary Al Ahsa palm tree haven sits within miles of otherwise sandy desert.

Al Qarah Mountain Caves, Al Ahsa

Hold onto your hats folks! The day is about to get spectacularly interesting with the Al Qarah Mountain network of curves and caves! Al Qarah Mountain is located at the eastern edge of the Shadqam plateau, which links to Kuwait and Iraq in the north and the Rub Al Khali desert in the south. The limestone rock mountain takes on remarkable mushroom-like shapes, divided by narrow canyons and sky-high interior passages. All of this is due to a phenomenon called sub-aerial weathering, where the rock is crafted from rain and rivers rather than ground water.

Al Nashab Cave, ‘Land of Civilizations’

The most astounding caves (known as Al Nashab) have been converted into an Ahsa Tourism project called ‘Land of Civilizations’. These caves have been formed by earthquakes and the remarkable straight fissures have created numerous interconnecting corridors which tourists can meander through. There are landscaped paths and lighting within the caves to make for a more enjoyable experience.

Land of Civilizations, Al Qarah Caves, Al Ahsa

Visitors will first enter the ‘Land of Civilisations’ museum, which documents the area’s ancient history. The caves are a welcome relief from the harsh Arab sun, with the combination of cool limestone and gentle breeze providing a year-round temperature regulation, making it a fantastic place to visit at any time! (This can not be said of many places in the Middle East in summer!)

Al Nashab Cave, Al Qarah Mountain, Al Ahsa

Bird watchers are also in for a treat, with Eurasian hoopoe, bee-eaters, nightingales and bulbuls all in attendance during migration season.

Entry at the time of our visit was SAR50 and there is a cafe and gift shop on site for refreshments after your visit.

Entrance to Al Nashab Cave, Al Qarah Mountain

Fact or Fiction?!
Could the famous Al Nashab cave within Al Qarah Mountain have Biblical origins? The people of the Filipino community in Saudi Arabia call Al Nashab ‘the Judah cave’ because they believe it is where Judas Iscariot committed suicide. However the source of this belief is unknown and seems unlikely given the contextual geography written in the Bible of the events preceding and following. Nevertheless, it certainly adds a more eerie feeling to one’s visit there!

Exit to Al Nashab Caves, Al Qarah Mountain

Climb to the top of the Al Qarah mountain formations

After completing a visit to the curated Land of Civilisations, I’d highly recommend spending time exploring the caves on your own. There are a few small informal carparks dotted around the mountain where you can get out and walk on top of the caves! Don’t forget enclosed walking shoes and sunglasses to beat the sun’s reflective glare. I really enjoyed exploring the raw and untouched rock formations, following small dirt tracks around their large protuberances. Seeing the green 160km-long Al Ahsa Oasis nestled within miles of orange sand from atop the mountain was jaw-dropping. You’ll also come across ground level caves which locals use for various purposes.

Unique rock formations as seen from the top of Al Qarah Mountain, with the Al Ahsa Oasis in the background

Al Uqair Complex

Historical importance

The complex of Al-Uqair is located approximately 70km from the Al Ahsa Oasis and is organised in three main ensembles: the port, the fort and the accommodation.

Al Uqair can’t be missed from this itinerary due to its remarkable historical importance: it was the first seaport in the Arabian Gulf!

When the Kingdom was established, Uqair was its economic gateway, serving as the main port through which to access the east and middle of Saudi Arabia. It was also the site of numerous historic meetings between the founding king (King Abdul Aziz) and foreign diplomats and where he conducted negotiations with international political forces in the region.

The importance of Al Uqair diminished with the discovery of oil in Abqaiq and Dhahran and development of commercial markets in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia. This was particularly notable from 1957, when construction of the port in Dammam and the railway began. These new transportation options and modern paved roads close to the oil fields provided an easier option for workers and trade routes.

The Al Uqair complex may be appear closed, however…

Note that the Al Uqayr Complex is currently closed to tourists with a locked fence around its buildings. This is largely due to safety reasons because the site is in a state of disrepair. To be fair, these buildings are about 300 years old!

However, the guardians of the complex are usually dotted around the vicinity with their families and they approached us to allow us in for photographs and a tour of the entire complex. I’ve also heard of this happening to other tourists so I’d recommend putting on a friendly face and trying your luck! They are extremely proud of this site and only too happy to show visitors around the complex. If you don’t make it inside, you’ll still have wonderful views of the building from the gate.

Fences around the Al Uqair Port & Warehouse on the left and around the Al Uqair Souq on the right

The Saudi people are extraordinarily generous and truly want to interact and engage with people from other backgrounds and cultures. In fact at the end of our visit we were invited back for coffee and biscuits and then invited to stay for a freshly caught fish dinner with music and dancing! (Sadly we couldn’t stay for dinner).

Old structure where locals invited us to share coffee and biscuits

1. Port & Warehouse

As mentioned, the Al Uqair Port was the first seaport in the Arabian Gulf. These buildings comprised the administration offices and warehouse where goods were stored before being shipped out or sold to the nearby souq. The main building is intricately decorated and stands as an architectural combination of typical Saudi and Ottoman features. It’s also completely run-down so don’t attempt to climb the stairs without maximum travel insurance!

2. Al Uqair Fort: Souq & Accommodation

Adjacent the Al Uqair Warehouse is the Al Uqair Fort & Souq. This large fortification encases offices, accommodation and a large courtyard accessible via a locked gate and entrance. The enormous 120 x 55m courtyard is surrounded by dozens of columns, once home to the shops of the old souq. You’ll almost be able to smell the scenes and spices of the orient as they were being traded by merchants all those years ago!

At the other end of the fort is a series of rooms and a mosque, beautifully decorated in Arabic and Ottoman styles. You’ll even find a few rooms crowned with colourful stained glass which is rare in the Arabian Peninsula. This was where the inhabitants of the fort would live and pray and there are still people living here to this day. We were kindly shown up some stairs onto the roof of the accommodation! This gave us unparalleled views of the souq from above and of the neighbouring Al Uqair warehouse and bay at sunset.

Al Uqair lodging, souq and mosque, with views from on top of the complex

Dinner at Entrecôte, Ithra, Dhahran

After a day of exploring dazzling historical sites, it’s time to return to Dhahran where I had my first introduction to the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture, aka Ithra. This uniquely shaped building is visible from many of the surrounding highways and is lit up by a light show at night. Make sure to confirm its opening hours on the website before arrival. We come back to Ithra on this itinerary tomorrow so keep reading for further details.

Entrance to the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture (Ithra)

Suspended near the top of Ithra however, is Entrecôte Café de Paris.

Entrecôte Café de Paris, Ithra, Dhahran, Saudi Arabia

What makes Entrecôte Café de Paris unique?

This famous Parisian-style restaurant chain began in 1930 in Geneva, Switzerland, when Chef Boubier perfected his famous ‘Café de Paris’ butter which adorns his dishes. The concept behind the menu is simple. It comprises just an entrecote of beef with homemade French fries and a salad, topped with this subtle and exquisite butter. When I was told that there was ‘only steak’ on the menu, this was true to form. Visitors can choose from 3 styles of steak, which are kept warm on a temperature regulated stove in the centre of the table. The Ithra branch offers unlimited fries and begins with an entire plate of green salad!

NB: Vegetarians seek an alternative restaurant.

Traditional recipe at Entrecôte Café de Paris

Fun Fact!
Mr. François Vouillamoz, the current owner of the original Entrecôte Café de Paris Chez Boubier 1930 restaurant in Geneva is the only person in the world who holds the secret of the original “Café de Paris” sauce. He blends it discretely at his kitchen laboratory underneath his restaurant! This special sauce is flown in from Geneva exclusively to the franchised restaurants in the Middle East, including at Ithra.

Ironically, the desert menu is much longer than that for mains and we completed the evening with some decadent Profiteroles au Chocolat.

Profiteroles au Chocolat, Entrecôte Café de Paris, Ithra

Outside garden and Ithra laser light show

Allow some time after dinner and before the Ithra complex closes, to sit outside and watch the various light shows on the dancing water fountains as well as the magnificent Ithra building. There is also a massive national flag lit up for guests to view, a tradition maintained in most Gulf states, signifying their immense pride in their country.

Water fountains and external features at Ithra

Overnight: Le Meridien Khobar Corniche

One of the best hotels to base yourself in Khobar is Le Meridien. Granted, options aren’t in excess but this hotel is on par with the quality of others you’d find in the greater middle east. It’s wide open lobby with shining marble floors and plush decor are welcoming and inviting and the rooms are sizeable with beautiful views across the Khobar Corniche, water tower and hotel pool. It’s also perfect for those who want to be based near the ocean and walk freely along the picturesque Corniche pathways. Fill up on breakfast this morning ahead of a long Corniche walk!

Room views from Le Meridien, Al Khobar, Saudi Arabia

Day 2

Explore Ithra: Spend some time in the library or museums of interest

The King Abdulaziz Centre for World Culture was built by Saudi Aramco and inaugurated by King Salman bin Abdulaziz on 1 December 2016. The Arabic word ‘Ithra’ is used as shorthand for the centre, which means ‘enrichment’. Within its walls, visitors will find museums, a library, cinema, theatre, restaurants and exhibition halls. It stands as Saudi Aramco’s main corporate social responsibility initiative, with a focus on inspiring a passion for knowledge, creativity, and cross-cultural engagement. These are held as important aims envisaged to propel the Kingdom into an economically-diverse future. The installations have something for all ages.

Fun Facts!
1. Ithra is located on the first commercial Saudi oilfield, found in 1938.
2. It was listed in Time magazine as one of the world’s top 100 places to visit
3. Ithra attracted one million visitors in 2019!

Ithra Library

It’s worth spending a day to explore the huge complex of Ithra. My absolute FAVOURITE part was the aesthetically mind-blowing library. Book lovers will be overwhelmed as they ascend the ground floor elevator to the sight of five floors of impeccably ordered books, interspersed with serene reading areas, multimedia stations and a mesmerising panelled roof. The Ithra library is home to a collection of over 270,000 titles in Arabic and English. Books cover an extraordinary range of themes, topics and genres. My only regret in visiting the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia was that I did not allow enough time to truly appreciate this special place.

Visit the Khobar water tower

The most iconic feature of Khobar in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia is its unique water tower. This 8-storey building is located on an island connected to the north of the Khobar corniche. It has an international revolving restaurant located at the top overlooking the city, 5 permanent scientific exhibits and an IMAX cinema showcasing non-fiction movies and documentaries. It also hosts fireworks shows on special occasions such as the important Muslim occasions of Ramadan and Eid.

Walk along Khobar Corniche

There’s nothing more rejuvenating than a walk by the seaside and Khobar has 16km of curated parks, lawns and benches that run along the eastern coast of the city. Pedestrians will have stunning vistas of the Persian Gulf and of the Bahrain city skyline on a clear day.

The King Fahd Causeway connects the eastern province of Saudi Arabia from Khobar to Bahrain. The magnificent 25km bridge can be seen from the corniche. This development has changed the lives of Aramco workers and Saudi nationals alike, with access to the less conservative country of Bahrain (and yes, a sneaky beer or two on a weekend). The bridge has a maximum capacity of 28,000 cars and 1000 trucks and I’d say that is exhausted on most weekends to satiate the expatriate workers liquid requirements!

Locals enjoying the seaside vistas with the King Fahd Causeway to Bahrain in the background

Lunch at the Adjan Walk precinct

Adjacent Cafe Bateel and the Matal complex is Adjan Walk, another sprawling precinct of restaurants, a cinema and coffee shops. With angulated building designs and a sculpted water feature in the centre, it’s the perfect place to pause for lunch.

Restaurant options and interesting architecture at Adjan Walk precinct, Al Khobar Corniche

You’ll find the popular Cheesecake Factory, P.F. Chang’s, Texas Roadhouse, Babel, Nando’s, Burger Boutique, Operation Falafel and more. I couldn’t go past Cheesecake Factory where I ordered the tamale corn cakes.

Tamale corn cakes, The Cheesecake Factory, Adjan Walk, Al Khobar Corniche

Afternoon drink at Dugheiser Leisure Island, Khobar

The stretch between Adjan Walk and Dugheiser Leisure Island is not the most glamorous of strolls. I found out the hard way and made a brief stop at Sofitel Hotel for some refreshments. (As a side note, I found them very extremely welcoming to a parched pedestrian. However, the building itself was lacking in views and ambience, except for their mesmerising first floor glass-walled lobby). I’d highly recommend a taxi beween Adjan Walk to Dugheiser Leisure Island.

On arrival at Dugheiser, you’ll find a small island packed with various restaurants. It’s worth a drink at Sunroom Cafe before finishing at La Mer Lounge & Restaurant for impeccable sea views and vibes.

Entrance to Aioli Cafe and La Mer Lounge & Restaurant

The Dugheiser Leisure Island, home to multiple cafes and restaurants

Dinner: La Mer Lounge & Restaurant, Khobar

Despite a slightly stressful Covid-swab related afternoon, La Mer Lounge came through with the goods to soothe all salty wounds. (Despite leaps and bounds in recent years, most Saudi Arabian cities still remain ill-equipped for routine tourism requirements. Unfortunately the Covid swab process took much longer than needed at the local hospital with a Philippino nurse who could not interpret my Hajj-calendar stamped passport. Nevertheless, with a little patience, I finally received the email with my negative swab result.)

La Mer Lounge is as close as you could possibly find to a western-style seaside lounge and restaurant. The gentle house beats providing a relaxing backdrop to the waves lapping at the shore. Tables are set facing the gulf and guests are privvy to an exquisite seafood menu.

Seaside scenes at La Mer Lounge & Restaurant, Khobar Corniche

A day of walking and exploring gets my appetite going like nothing else and I couldn’t believe my luck when I saw lobster on the menu. We also ordered the chateaubriand with fries and special La Mer salad (because meals are always best shared)! This followed our generous (and very blue!) welcome drink of saffron, lime and sparkling water.

A word on dessert

It appeared our gluttony had no bounds however and soon after we were tucking into a delightful fruit icecream dessert, debating the differences between the British ‘knickerbocker glory’ and American icecream sundae. Finally we sunk down into our comfortable seats and focused on the horizon, slumped in a coma of delicious food and the satisfaction of a full day.

Icecream sundae perfection at La Mer Lounge & Restaurant, Khobar Corniche

Soon after, it was time to head back to the Dammam Airport (chaos central!) so make sure to maximise every minute at La Mer. My day along Khobar and the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia was relaxing and simplistic, everything you could desire for a weekend away.