Plitvice Lakes National Park: a planned approach
Overview
Croatia’s most famed national park is on the UNESCO World Heritage list for a good reason! At one of the largest and oldest in the country, Plitvice Lakes’ cascading waterfalls, turquoise waters and breathtaking walking trails will have you spellbound.
However, it is huge! A plan of attack is required, especially if you don’t have a guide, as the park can easily become overwhelming to navigate for first-timers. The region is effectively divided into the upper and lower lakes, with a variety of transport options between them (walking trails, boat and bus). There are 16 interconnecting lakes, all varying in colour from deep dark blue to turquoise to emerald green, depending on mineral content and lighting.
See below for quick links to:
Plitvice Lakes National Park location
Park maps
Different routes (programmes) through the park
Which entrance to start from
Food purchase
Recommended itinerary for a day trip
When to visit
What to pack
Where to stay
Essentials
Upper Lakes
Milino jezero
Galovac
Galovački Buk
Veliki Prštavac
Lunch on the shores of Kozjac Lake
Lower Lakes
Milanovački Slap Waterfall
The Great Waterfall (Veliki Slap)
View from Entrance 1
Statistics
Area of the National Park: 29 685 ha
Highest point: Seliški vrh (1279 m)
Lowest point: Koranski most (367 m)
Deepest lake: Kozjak (47 m)
Largest Lake: Kozjak (81.5 ha)
Largest Waterfall: Veliki Slap (78 meters)
waterfalls at the Upper Lakes
Where is Plitvice Lakes National Park?
Plitvice Lakes NP is located between Zadar and Zagreb and fits nicely into my suggested 1-2 week itinerary of Croatia (see this link).
It is possible to visit Plitvice Lakes as a day trip from Zagreb or Zadar, and even from Split, however the driving time would significantly impact on your time spent at Plitvice and would certainly not allow enough time for my recommended visit below. This is not a place to be rushed! Another consideration is that the high volumes of tourists can slow down your transitions through various park locations, especially in summer.
My best advice would be to stay local as the whole region is stunning. We stayed in the nearby town of Otočac.
Park maps
It’s worth heading to the official web page for Plitvice Lakes National Park to ensure the most up to date information on the hiking trails and routes displayed below.
L: Upper Lakes
R: Lower Lakes
Red dots: Hiking trails
Pink dots: Boat connection between Upper and Lower lakes
Yellow line: Bus route connecting Entrance 1 and 2
Different routes through Plitvice
There are approximately 8 different walking trails through the park, ranging from 3km to 18km. Be sure to check the official website before setting out in order to choose the right track for you and to make sure there are no trail closures. For a suggested day trip itinerary that encompasses the highlights of both upper and lower lakes then please see my suggestion below.
Which entrance should I start from?
There’s varying opinions as to whether one should enter from entrance 1 or 2 but to be honest I don’t see there being a clear winner.
Entrance 1 will take you through the lower lakes first and proceed to the upper lakes. Entrance 2 allows the reverse, with transit through the upper lakes first and then to the lower lakes. It is stated that one encounters less traffic by commencing at entrance 2 however in my opinion, there was just as much foot traffic in either direction. Via entrance 1 you will walk towards the waterfalls (pro) and via entrance 2 you will work towards your encounter of the Plitvice piece de resistance, the Great Waterfall (see below photographs), at the end of the day (resounding pro).
Can I buy food at Plitvice Lakes NP?
Definitely!
There are a few options: Kozjačka Draga, Labudovac, Rapajinka, Flora and Hladovina. Food is simple and much like a canteen, with a number of set meal options such as chicken and chips, pizza and hot dogs. The largest bistro area is Kozjačka Draga and the boat stops here regularly. This picturesque meadow is situated on the slopes down to Lake Kozjak, the largest and deepest in the national park, as well as being on the edge of the forest. It is the perfect place for a quick stop to recover your energy.
Recommended itinerary for a day trip – our journey
Which entrance should I start at?
As mentioned above, it will not improve the pace of your transition through the park by commencing at one entrance over another. The throes of tourists are equally present in both directions.
I’d recommend starting at the upper lakes (entrance 2) and working your way down to the lower lakes where the penultimate vista of the park is on display: the Great Waterfall. It’s magic to end on this note and this is the way we came. It was an enthralling day of discovery.
What time should I get there?
To achieve all of this requires an early start and as we were on an organised tour, our transport collected us from our hotel in Otočac at 8am and had us returned at around 5pm. The earlier you start the better as tourists peak around 10am.
Upper Lakes waterfalls
Where should I go after I walk through entrance 2?
After walking through the entrance, you will walk down a wide stony path to the riverbank, where an electric boat will cross the river and dispatch you on the other side. From here is a non-strenuous circular loop of a variety of lengths (there are multiple options available as per the website) which will take you past the beautiful upper lakes and bring you back to where the boat disembarked.
A boat ride of approximately 30-40 minutes will then transport you to the edge of Lake Kozjak which is the perfect place to refuel with lunch.
After you’ve had some sustenance, get ready for the lower lakes! More visually stunning displays are coming your way, not least of which is The Great Waterfall! After leaving the waterfall, crossing the bridge and ascending the hill, it is worth steering off the path at the top of the hill. Here a magnificent panorama opens up, stretching from the translucent emerald lake on the left to the Great Waterfall on the right. This spot is actually very near entrance 1. For this route, entrance 1 will be your exit.
When to visit
The continental climate here is different to coastal Croatia which is mediterranean. Mid summer in Plitvice is hot and nonemoreso than the middle of the day. If you visit at this time, from June to mid September, try to avoid the middle of the day if possible. This will obviously mean shorter trips and may mean missing vital components of a jam-packed day trip. I’d suggest a visit in May/June or September to minimise crowds (note they are ever present) but also to capitalise on very pleasant weather.
We visited at the end of September on the last trip left of the summer season and even then the midday sun was toasty warm and we traipsed around in t shirt and shorts. Towards the end of the day however, we were grateful for our lightweight wind breaker jackets to ward off the late afternoon chill.
If you’re a fast walker (aka me) then you’ll find Plitvice Lakes NP a slightly frustrating experience but with a little patience for the excessive number of tourists, an attuned focus on the sheer beauty of the lakes, waterfalls and forests, and a camera in hand, you’ll have a wonderful time.
NB: Winter in Plitvice Lakes is notoriously cold and invariably snowing. The boardwalks are ice-covered and slippery and I’d recommend not visiting at this time.
What to pack
- Hiking or sturdy walking shoes
- Layered clothing – tshirt, overshirt, fleece, light windbreaker (heavy snow jacket for winter visits)
- Light snacks for the day of walking
- Enough water for the length of your intended trip
- Sunglasses
- Hat
- Sunscreen
- Camera
Where to stay
I’d recommend staying in the beautiful little town of Otočac, which is only a 20 minute drive to the Plitvice Lakes National Park.
