Eating out in Old Town Dubrovnik
Overview
There’s few other places in the world where one can saunter down narrow cobblestoned pathways, under wrought-iron lamp posts in a city as old as time, past all manner of intimate dinner locations, perusing the most decadent Mediterranean menus of food, with wine from nearby islands such as Korčula, whilst steadfastly making future lists of places to return to because there are too many to possibly indulge in over a week. For the best highlights of Dubrovnik in a few days, click here.
Welcome to Dubrovnik. You’ll wonder why you ever booked just a few nights here or agreed to step off a cruise liner for a day. In the evenings, this thought is only reiterated.
This post aims to divulge all of the hotspots and decadence I encountered during my time in the Old City. The restaurants are romantic and the bars are brazen. Keep reading for my review of the best restaurants and click here for my review of the best bars in Old Town Dubrovnik. Here we go!
Restaurants
Whether it’s brunch, lunch or dinner, restaurants in Dubrovnik know how to satiate. Most are open for all meals but some are reserved for dinner only. Make sure to call in advance for an evening, as many are booked out well in advance, particularly those with water views.
It’s possible to wander the streets however and happen across all manner of quaint, romantic, candle-lit places that greet walk ins with a smile, great cuisine and a fabulous wine list. In some respects, these are the most authentic and memorable evenings.
Pro tip: if you are coming from accommodation outside of the city walls, have the driver drop you off at the third and less well known northern entrance to the city, Buža Gate (aka Vrata od Buže). You can also drive and park at Iza Grada nearby however this is quite risky because a) there are limited parking spots in a very popular city and b) you may wish to have a glass of wine (or three) with your meal. When you are dropped off, you’ll find a long row of steps to descend. Passing all manner of little bars and clubs, the first clearing you will come to is a narrow intersecting street called Prijeko, a lively street filled with restaurants in the ‘newer’ part of town. This then leads down to Stradun, the main street of Dubrovnik. Granted, after the evening is complete, you may wish to exit the city via either Pile or Ploče Gates if your knees are not willing to climb back up!
The more you wander around the city, the more you will stumble across gorgeous little restaurant precincts, often hidden by a corner church or historical building. I’d definitely encourage you to put on some flat shoes, spend 1-2 hours having some relaxed drinks in the local waterholes, whilst staking out your preferred dinner spot.
In general, I’d say there are 5 main regions to dine within and nearby Old Town:
- Near Ploče Gate & Old Port
- The area immediately outside Ploče Gate
- Prijeko Street (north of Stradun; entry down from Buža Gate or up from Stradun)
- Precinct south of Stradun
- The area outside of Pile Gate
We spent most of our nights within the city walls and so my recommendations mostly stem from there. As a rule of thumb, the more words I spend describing a place, the more I loved it.
Recommendations:
Restaurant 360
Bistro Revelin
Banje Beach Club
Pupo
Prijeko Street – Konoba Moby Dick
Poklisar Restaurant
Pub Dubrovnik
Gradska Kavana Arsenal Restaurant – “Blue & White Breakfast”
Lokanda Peskarija
L to R: Lokanda Peskarija, Gradska Kavana Arsenal, Poklisar, Bistro Revelin & Banje Beach Club
Restaurant 360
This Michelin star restaurant happened to be right by our accommodation: it’s on the expensive end, plays the instrumental version of the Game of Thrones theme song on repeat, and I actually think the views are surpassed at Bistro Revelin, with a much more appealing price point. However for the thrill and seduction of a Michelin star, it’s allure is evident.
Top left: Mt Srđ restaurant and memorial.
Bistro Revelin
I came to this place twice, something I rarely do on a trip to an undiscovered city. In my opinion, it’s the best all–rounded option for an evening meal in Dubrovnik, tied possibly only with Banje Beach Club.
Just outside Ploče Gate, the crew were friendly and accommodating and both times seated me with little notice at an almost unparalleled table. The first time I was alone and had a fun evening after striking up a lively conversation with some nearby Americans sisters who had taken their elderly mother out to dinner at the only accessible restaurant they could find (Dubrovnik is a harsh mistress to those with knee problems); the second I had company and it was even better.
Set above Old Port, the city dances in yellow and then drowns in the deepest oranges, pinks and purples as night sets in. Bistro Revelin is set upon a terrace overlooking the water and the Old City Walls of Dubrovnik. Beautiful with no pretence, I ordered the same thing both times: grilled octopus and squid tubes. Fresh seafood, local white wine, the city walls and all set beneath one of the city’s largest pine trees, you really can’t bypass this magical place.
Banje Beach Club
Perched alongside the Old Town Port, this visually stunning venue offers various delights at different times of the day or night.
Well known for its beach club during the day where you’ll find the elite of society on their sunbathing beds and sipping on cocktails, during the evening it converts into a truly magnificent waterside restaurant and at night it again changes into a nightclub.
We went at dusk for what turned out to be an enchanting candle-lit seafood dinner on the terrace overlooking the Adriatic Sea.
As soon as we descended the stairs from the main street (not far from Ploče Gate), we were greeted at the main entrance and shown to the terrace, a platform raised above the sunbeds below. The gentle lapping of the waves and the lilting house music was enough to transcend us beyond the walking and activity of the day.
After perusing the menu of Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on traditional Dalmatian flavour, it didn’t take long to decide on the fresh fish of the day, which turned out to be both red snapper and sea bream. They were served to us whole by the waiter onto plates in front of us. Combined with a bottle of Pošip from Korčula on the Dalmatian Coast, I was in heaven.
For some reason I have an intricate memory for unique or wonderful meals when traveling overseas and this is definitely one that stands out to me. After some sunset photography, great conversation and delicious food, it was time for a night cap in the city before off to bed, all within walking distance of our little ‘sobe‘ accommodation.
Pupo
Pupo was a true delight. It was one of those little authentic restaurants in a laneway off of Stradun, that one just happen across because you’re walking further away from the commotion of the main street and further into the blissful evening dinner scene.
After being seated next to a stone potted plant and its overgrowing vine in the windowsill, at a table with fresh white linens and an all-in-one balsamic and virgin olive oil glass pourer, I knew I was gearing up for a special meal. When the warm, freshly baked bread appeared in its wicker basket, the anticipation was confirmed. The night was but young but walkers by were enquiring at the ready. Pupo is a family business spanning 3 generations, all within the Old Town city walls.
I chose the traditional Croatian ‘Gregada’ from a menu resplendent with fresh seafood options. The dish was served as the most extraordinary appearing medley of prawns, fish and an assortment of cockles within a white wine and water based broth. Combined with fresh bread and a glass of rose, this was a divine way to start our evening. It’s quiet enough to enjoy company whilst maintaining the buzz of people passing by.
Prijeko Street – Konoba Moby Dick
Prijeko Street is a laneway running parallel to Stradun and up a flight of steps. Dubrovnik can be hard on the knees! It’s well worth clambering up here though as along this street you will find a multitude of quaint and modern restaurants.
R: Looking down Prijeko Street at other laneway restaurants
Moby Dick’s is a delightful little restaurant with a nautical interior theme and a long row of tables and comfy seats out on the laneway path. With a menu of oysters, prawns, fish, mussels and lobster, you can’t possibly go wrong!
I sat and enjoyed 2 glasses of Pošip whilst watching the world go by at the corner of Prijeko and the intersecting steps going up and down. This was on my first day in Dubrovnik and it was absolutely enthralling.
Poklisar Restaurant
Poklisar is a special place for me as our accommodation was located almost directly above it! We would walk past it frequently as it is located on the Old Port, right by the town bell and directly opposite a very popular icecreamery!
In traditional Dubrovnik dialect, Poklisar means ‘ambassador’ and the team at this delightful restaurant claim to be ambassadors of good taste and remarkable moments. They are succeeding in my opinion!
With its incredibly charming and alluring backdrop by the water, it’s one of those restaurants that just always looks full.
Given that most nights we would venture further out and explore, we decided on one of our more lazy starts to the day, to have a relaxing seafood lunch at Poklisar. I could probably eat seafood all day given the choice! I distinctly remember the delicious grilled Adriatic squids marinated in olive oil and aromatic herbs. Their menu also boasts braised octopus (I almost needed to order this too), seared tuna steak, cuttlefish black risotto and a Croatian charcuterie amongst many others. Paired with what became my favourite local white wine varietal, Pošip, I was a very satisfied lady.
Pub Dubrovnik
As it sounds, this a good choice for a simple but robust dinner with quick service and minimal frills. It is located within the city walls in the centre of Old Town and within a large courtyard opening where many other restaurants abound. With live music and a unique ambience, Pub Dubrovnik markets itself as a conceptual pub, aiming to embody the feel of Dubrovnik in its aesthetics, from the interiors to the Croatian flag outside, right down to its logo.
Gradska Kavana Arsenal Restaurant
Ahhh. This was our favourite place for breakfast in Dubrovnik, which we affectionately dubbed ‘The Blue and White Breakfast’ after its so coloured table linens and interiors, as well as in jest by my friend who actually supports Tottenham Hotspurs. Unsurprisingly, the restaurant was not named after the English Premier League team but in memory of the historic shipyard nearby, where galijuni and karake ships were made from the 13th century onwards.
This grand building sits on the waters edge of Old Port, with 3 large open arches that provide a stunning visual of the port during your sitting from the patio. To the right is St John’s Fortress and to the left is the Lazareti complex, the oldest quarantine structure in Europe, built in 1377. From here one can see the many passenger boats roll in from mid morning onwards. (In actual fact, the cruise liners dock at Gruž, about 3.5 km from the Old Town, and smaller boats bring the passengers in to the Old Port from there). The small potted plants and open atmostphere will surely have you feeling the Mediterranean vibe!
Gradska Kavana Arsenal have a few ‘all inclusive’ breakfasts to choose from. My favourite was the vegetarian option which included fresh bread, grilled mushrooms, avocado, orange juice and coffee. My friend had the ‘meat option’ which was largely a typical English breakfast including sausages, tomatoes, mushies, OJ and piping hot tea. It was really a beautiful and filling way to start the day; the worst part was being disciplined enough to leave!
The dinner menu looked phenomenal and would be a stunning setting for an evening.
Lokanda Peskarija
Located next to Gradska Kavana Arsenal, this beautiful eatery is also located on the Old Port however the challenge is to find a table with a direct view onto the water and not behind another table! Fortunately I nabbed one on my first morning there. Their menu is simple and mostly seafood options, much like many of the Dubrovnik based restaurants.
The outdoor terrace is spacious and well frequented and alive with the hum of people enjoying a break during their day. However, the magical part of this restaurant, in my opinion, is the intimate and old style interior, which is created to imbibe the ambience of the old local taverns and as their website states, ‘take you back to some lost, simpler times’.
After a grilled octopus salad and a few snapshots, I was off to continue exploring…
Enjoy your time exploring the best culinary experiences that Dubrovnik has to offer! Bon appetit!
