Fraser Island Favourites
Overview
If you love the outdoors and love adventure, then Fraser Island is the pot of gold at the end of your rainbow! As the world’s largest sand island, it spans 123 km in length by 22 km at its widest. It’s heritage listed and located 360 km north of Brisbane, accessed by ferry from either Hervey Bay or Rainbow Beach.
The island is a rich cocoon of crystal clear lakes teeming with fish, bubbling streams, turquoise creeks, luscious nature walks, sand dunes, shipwrecks, spiny catfish and wild dingos… as well as the odd slithering snake! It’s truly a natural heaven that has been extremely well preserved.
After driving for a short time, there’s a very interesting question that presents itself:
How does the dense and lush rainforest grow out of the sand?
This phenomenon is incredulous and entirely fascinating. Not only does the rainforest grow, it thrives, and has done so for thousands of years despite sand being notoriously low on nutrients. In fact Fraser Island has the tallest rainforests growing on sand in the world. It all stems from the cyanobacteria, funghi and lichen which grow on the forest floor under the thick forest canopies. As it consumes the rotting plants, it returns the life-sustaining nutrients to the ground and these minerals re-concentrate in the sand. As each dune deepens, a deeper nutrient level is developed allowing more complex forests to grow. Amazing!
As mentioned, access is via ferry in either a private 4WD (regular cars simply can not negotiate the terrain) or on an organised tour. Accommodation comprises two resorts (Kingfisher on the west coast and Eurong on the east coast), private airBnBs, private homes or camp sites. I hear there are 4WD ‘taxi’s’ between the ferry stop and the resorts however there are too many discovery spots on Fraser Island to limit oneself to a resort pool! Tours generally range from day trips to a couple of days, however to truly do the island justice, consider spending a week.
On another note, beware the Fraser Island dingos which look like cute puppy dogs but in fact have very primal urges and instincts! It’s best to travel in groups into the bushland or on long hikes and wise not to leave pairs of shoes outside overnight or they’ll be missing come morning! Don’t be fooled into patting or feeding these wild animals which descended from wolves well before the domestic canine did.
According to the Butchulla people, Fraser Island was named K’gari after a beautiful spirit who helped decorate the land. The legend goes that after the land was created, the Aboriginal god Beeral sent two trusted messengers to the land to help make it astoundingly beautiful. They were Yindingie and K’gari. Once the transition was complete, it was so beautiful that K’gari did not want to leave. Yindingie pleaded with K’gari to change her mind but she was steadfast. So while she was sleeping, Beeral changed her body into an idyllic island with sand, trees and flowers. He fashioned some jewel-like lakes to be her eyes into heaven and then put birds, animals and people on the island to keep her company. Thus the word K’gari came to be the word for ‘paradise’.
Itinerary
Day 1
Depart Rainbow Beach or Hervey Bay on ferry
75 Mile Beach
Pile Valley
Lake McKenzie
Central Station / Subtropical Rainforest Walk
Lunch: Eurong Resort
Northern Island Tour
Indian Head
Champagne Pools
Dinner: Eurong Resort
Beach sunset
Day 2
Breakfast: Eurong Resort
Scenic Flight
Lake Wabby
The Pinnacles
Maheno Shipwreck
Eli Creek
Ferry back to mainland
Day 1
Depart Rainbow Beach or Hervey Bay on ferry
The convenient aspect to organised tours is that most will collect you from your mainland accommodation. You’ll then drive 15 minutes to the ferry departure at Inskip Point followed by 30 mins on the Manta Ray Barge (or 70 mins by ferry from Hervey Bay). The Manta Ray arrives at Hook Point, the beginning of the Eastern Beach scenic drive. Bookings are not required on the barge however private 4WDs require a vehicle permit for access to Fraser Island.
If you’re traveling from Brisbane or south Queensland as I was, Rainbow Beach is the closest departure point. If you’re traveling down from north Queensland, Hervey Bay is your ideal.
75 Mile Beach
Ok a few things first. 75 Mile Beach is stunning. However there are a few obstacles to avoid. Firstly: no swimming in the ocean. Unless of course you’ve always wanted to shake hands with a shark. If so, you’ll have a very high chance of this due to the large shark population. Secondly: take care on the sand. This is due to a multitude of reasons but predominantly the fact that 4WDs use it as a highway at high speed and light aircraft use it to land after their scenic flights. Just make sure you think twice about dilly dallying on the sand. Thirdly: don’t drive directly over the tides as the salt will rust the underside of your 4WD. Also don’t forget to let your tyre pressure down for those soft sand days!
Spoil sport disclaimers aside, this beautiful beach is home to some incredible attractions: the Maheno Shipwreck, Champagne Pools, Indian Head and the Pinnacles. Keep your eyes peeled in the scrub for dingos, up in the sky for eagles and in the water for sharks, stingrays and turtles.
Pile Valley
This beautiful ancient rainforest is the historic heart of Fraser Island and is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Once a busy logging camp, it is known for its diverse plant life, including soaring turpentine trees, giant king ferns, kauri pines and brushbox trees. Some of these trees are over 1000 years old and create a canopy that is over 50 metres high. We drove through this wooded region along the sand tracks admiring the density of flora and helping out a bogged 4WD or two …
Lake McKenzie
On the drive to Lake McKenzie, our tour guide proclaimed that this was one lake we would never want to leave. I became immediately suspicious by such a hefty declaration, yet he was well within his bounds. It was divine! And he was also right. I did not want to leave and neither did my new found friends. We were set for the day in our tropical oasis where the sand was white and as fine as bone china, the water was warm and as aqua as a tropical island and the sun was on our backs, warming our core (and also necessitating a few layers of suncream).
The edge of the lake is a dream to swim in and the sand can be rubbed over your hands and feet (and arms and legs!) for the ultimate free exfoliant. Ladies don’t forget to polish your jewellery for a brand new shine! Beware that after a few metres the lake does plunge southward and quickly becomes quite deep. If you have the luxury of time, this is a place you could easily spend the day.
Central Station / Subtropical Rainforest Walk
The best way to experience Pile Valley is to walk in it! Bushwalks along the Pile Valley Circuit are a popular way of seeking some much needed shade and bearing witness to the magnificence of some of these age old trees.
The quick 100m circuit runs from Central Station along the Wanggoolba Creek Boardwalk but allow 2 hours return for the longer 4km journey through the sun-dappled rainforest of satinays and hoop pine. You’ll wander along a shallow creek that meanders through the middle of the island which is so clear it’s easy to miss!
Central Station was once the epicentre of the forestry industry on Fraser Island, where logging took place from 1863 to 1991. Sadly over that 130 years, much damage was done, with scars still evident today. Some current day bushrangers have been so impacted by this that they have been known to ask tourists to return tree branches and twigs to the exact same spot they were removed from, if tourists are seen to be carrying them around. The general rule of thumb is that no item of nature can be relocated or removed. If a tree falls down, it stays there. One is allowed to move it if it is obstructing the sand road, albeit only to the side of the road.
Central Station as it stands today within its resplendent rainforest backdrop is home to a display explaining the development of Fraser Island, its flora and fauna, an information centre and picnic area. It also makes an ideal camping site during the holiday season.
Lunch: Eurong Resort
What’s not to love?! A resort tucked in off of 75 Mile Beach, a pool, a bakery, a restaurant and bar and a shop! It is a bit dated but it has a great vibe and there are a range of accommodation options such as apartments and hotel rooms. Equipped with a dingo-proof gate, your belongings are safe here.
We stayed here overnight but our first encounter with Eurong was for lunch in their large open dining hall. Being part of a tour, we had a limited menu of standard options (burgers, fries, pizzas) however hotel guests have a larger range of options. After a chicken burger and some fries later, it was time to hit the northern region of Fraser Island!
Northern Island Tour
The northern island tour took us along 75 Mile Beach past Cathedral Beach, Dundabara beach and up to Indian Head. It was then onwards to the magic Champagne Pools and then back in time for sunset on the beach.
Indian Head
When Captain James Cook sailed past this most easterly point of Fraser Island in 1770 he saw aboriginals standing on the point and gave it the name Indian Head. The name given by the traditional owners is Tuckee.
During our visit Indian Head was closed for regenerative purposes but I am told that the lookout at the top of the beautiful red rhyolite rock provides 240 degree panoramic views across the peninsula. If you’re lucky you may spot schools of fish, sharks, osprey, sea turtles, manta rays, and even whales during migration season!
Champagne Pools
These unique natural masterpieces are located 2.2 km north of Indian Head, on the eastern side of the island and is one of the most sought after locations on the island. A short boardwalk connects the car park to the pools, with impressive views along the coast and downwards towards the naturally formed rock pools with shallow, sandy bottoms. With each wave that enters the pools comes a new layer of seafoam that fizzes about the swimmers, creating a jacuzzi-like feeling. Beware the large waves however! They can be dangerous if not paid a healthy respect. At low tide, the pools are much calmer and allow for a more peaceful experience whilst sunbathing in the salt water amongst the fish swept in by the waves.
It is worth noting that some tours do not visit the Champagne Pools due to their remote location so be sure to enquire before booking.
Dinner: Eurong Resort
Everyone knows that a day of outdoor activities breeds a hungry tummy! Back at Eurong, we were treated to some more similarly delicious treats, with my choice being the vegetarian lasagne. I’m not vego but boy was it a cracker. Teamed with a glass of rose, it was time to head down to the sand for a well renowned sunset.
Sunset on the beach
Island dwellers congregate outside Eurong on the sand of 75 Mile Beach as the sun makes its final valediction for the day. Our little circle of four was also stunned to turn around and learn that a dingo had made our group a party of five! It was curious to see what was in our handbags but after that, meandered off into the shrub, again unfortunately compounding the inaccurate perception that these pups are placid friendly animals!
We watched the tones of the sky change before us with another group of beach revellers and then it was time to turn in.
Day 2
Breakfast: Eurong Resort
Eurong turned on the goods here with a breakfast fry up complete with yoghurt and fruit salad! A hearty way to start the day.
Scenic Flight over Fraser Island
Travelling on tours can be a riot. I met a vivacious girl from Townsville who shared my enthusiasm to GET ON TOP! This was not a confirmed or included part of our package but we were keen, keen, keen.
Don’t miss the opportunity to see Fraser Island from the air!
So when the vehicle came to a halt and a man dressed as a pilot walked on in, we knew luck was on our side! Two hands shot straight up in the air (no guesses who they belonged to). Bingo. We had secured our spot.
A few instructions and $100 later, we were climbing aboard, me in the ‘co-pilot’ seat. From a soaring height we were able to grasp the sheer size of Fraser Island, passing from the east coast to the west and back over 20 minutes. We saw Lake Mackenzie, Lake Wabby and the long stretch of 75 Mile Beach, as well as the dense rainforest from above, just to name a few!
The ride was quick but helpful as an orienting exercise for the places we had been and were yet to visit!
Lake Wabby
It is estimated that this shrinking lake will completely disappear in about 30 years. Lake Wabby is a small freshwater, green coloured lake located in the Great Sandy National Park and directly adjacent the Hammerstone Sandblow, which is slowly moving into the lake and threatens to swallow it whole.
Accessed via a walk inland from 75 Mile Beach (that is approximately 4.1 km north of Eurong), it will take approximately 30-40 minutes through open forest to reach the edge of the Hammerstone Sandblow and down the steep slopes to Lake Wabby.
Beware the spined catfish in the lake! They will swim away from humans but don’t try to catch these marine dwellers or you may find an unwanted spike to the hand. Take plenty of water for this walk, particularly in the midday sun.
The Pinnacles
A few kilometres north of the Maheno Shipwreck are these fascinating multicoloured sand cliffs abounding in tones of white, yellow, brown, orange, and pink at dusk. They are thought to be formed by a conglomeration of sand with clay, eroded by wind and rain which have exposed the soft older core.
The Pinnacles are sacred grounds for the Butchulla women and their story of creation reveals a different beginning to that of scientific theory. Wuru was a young woman who was promised to marry Winyer, an older man. However she fell in love with Wiberigan, the rainbow serpent. Wuru visited Wiberigan on the beach every day but was one day followed by Winyer who descended into a jealous rage. He threw a boomerang at Wuru but Wiberigan protected her and she escaped unharmed. The rainbow serpent took the blow and fractured into thousands of colourful pieces which sprinkled over the cliffs, leaving the coloured sands of The Pinnacles a place of good luck for the Butchulla women.
Maheno Shipwreck
The SS Maheno (Maori for ‘island’) was built in Scotland in 1904 and first used as a hospital ship in World War I before being bought by a Sydney company for transport between Australia and New Zealand. The ship was then bought by a Japanese company who wished to buy it and melt it into scrap metal to resell. In a dud move, the Japanese removed the huge propellors from the back of the ship and on the journey home they hit a cyclone, eventually resulting in the ship washing ashore on Fraser Island and being abandoned.
Below: The full length of the SS Maheno on 75 Mile Beach
Today the Maheno is a magnificent structure residing on 75 Mile Beach, where visitors are requested not to enter the ship due to its dangerous condition as it slowly erodes away. However you can get mighty close and peer inside for unparalleled views which provoke all kinds of imaginative thoughts as to the interior of yesteryear!
Eli Creek – lunch and water activities
From afar, Eli Creek looks like a shallow trail of water full of kids in tubes and a line of 4WDs packed so tightly next to one another it gives one a headache.
Do not be misled by the initial view!
Eli Creek is much more fun than this. Make sure you have a floatation device of some description. At the entrance to the creek is a boardwalk of about 50 metres which takes you to the top of the water channel. From here, there is BUCKETLOADS OF FUN to be had.
Water enthusiasts can travel downstream in the lake at a steady pace, pushed along by the current, until ejected at the end into the larger creek mentioned above.
I must admit I did this journey up the boardwalk and down the stream so many times I almost forgot about lunch!
Ferry back to mainland
After an incredible journey of exciting discoveries, it was sadly then time to head back to Eurong for a quick stock up at the shop and then back to the ferry home.
