Desert Festivals of Al Ula, Saudi Arabia

Overview

As I recenty came to discover, there is no shortage of beauty and stunning landscapes in Saudi Arabia and this could not be more true of Al Ula. This buzzing town made its way onto my ‘Best of Saudi Arabia in 5 days tour’ by personal recommendation and after experiencing its magic atmosphere, I feel compelled to forward this recommendation on to you!

Al Ula is a small desert town in north western Saudi Arabia that comes to life in the Arabian winter. It is ever changing and constantly surprising! Sitting adjacent the famous Mada’in Saleh Nabataean tombs, Al Ula has expanded significantly over the past 5 years, catapulting itself into the international spotlight.

The city plays host to 4 main annual festivals during the winter season (December to March) under the banner ‘Al Ula Moments’. These include:

Al Ula Wellness Festival
Al Ula Arts Festival
Al Ula Skies
Winter at Tantora

Important Note

Each festival runs at a certain time so various activities are on offer in different months. Please check the schedule ahead of your planned visit to avoid disappointment!

Popup art installations at Desert X, Al Ula Arts Festival

Hot Tip

Check the website for a confirmed list of activities ahead of your visit!

It is important to remember that while many of the activities and restaurants remain the same each year, there are also many pop-up ventures. This means there is no guarantee that some of these options will be available when you visit. What is guaranteed however, is a cracking good time with unusual modern desert art, theatrical performances, ancient Saudi heritage, world class cuisine and fascinating rock formations! It’s certainly the quirky geology and landscapes that set the stage for your unbelievable trip to Al Ula!

If you are visiting Al Ula outside of festival season, I’d highly recommend booking through GetYourGuide, which provides competitive rates on tours within Al Ula and local surrounds. On the website you’ll be able to book amazing experiences such as stargazine with dinner, a trip to Elephant Rock, a Hegra guided tour and more. Click here for more details!

Keep reading for my ‘must dos’ in Al Ula. I’ll review iconic staples within the region as well as my favourite pop-up features to give you an idea of what to expect!

The ancient Nabataean tombs at Hegra (Mada’in Saleh). These remain a permanent fixture in the area!

Hot air balloons run for a limited time during the Al Ula Festivals

Itinerary

A Few Quick Questions

Q: How do I get to Al Ula?

A: Al Ula has a regional airport with connections to Jeddah, Riyadh & Dammam International airports. If you are following my ‘best of Saudi Arabia in 5 days itinerary‘ then you’ll arrive by car from Tabuk/Wadi Al Disah, a 3 hour drive. I highly recommend Rentalcars.com for a smooth experience and a wide range of cars from reputable car hire companies. Click here to check out their great rates!

Q: Where is Al Ula?

A: Al Ula is a city within the Medina region of north-western Saudi Arabia. It was historically located on the incense route.

Q: What’s the best way to get around?

A: It’s possible to take public transport shuttle buses within Al Ula but these run on a fixed loop system, making travel time extremely inefficient. We hired a car from Yelo and were extremely happy we did so. They also provide a free shuttle to the airport for your departure flight on return of the hired vehicle.

Q: Where should I stay?

A: There are numerous accommodation styles: high-end resorts, homestays and airstreams. Resorts include: Banyan Tree, Habitas, Shaden and Sahary. We stayed in a rustic, charming and private homestay called Naseem Country House S, run by the accommodating Sadam. The Airstream-RVs by Habitas are a popular option.

Check out Booking.com for the biggest selection of hotels in Al Ula and best rates!

Q: Is alcohol available?

A: No. Alcohol is illegal in Saudi Arabia.

Q: What should I wear?

A: Saudi Arabia is a conservative Muslim country. For ladies, this means covering up. Now is your chance to invest in a colourful or ornate abaya to enhance your photographs!

Q: Can I travel with an unmarried partner?

A: Yes. Hotel accommodation will not check marriage certificates for non-Muslim couples.

Q: What if I have an Al Ula ticketing issue or need to follow up on a refund?

A: Contact +966 920 025 003

Q: Where do the public buses depart from for my ticketed events?

A: Public buses depart mostly from ‘Winter Park’, a dedicated tourist hub slightly out of the Old Town area. There are also some smaller shuttle buses that transport visitors from Old Town car parks to various points within the Old Town.

Pro Tip!
Make sure to collect a complementary copy of The Official Visitor Guide to Al Ula at the airport! It’s worth its weight in gold, providing tips on accommodation, food, local customs and the best displays and installations to see (as well as their operating times).

Day 1
Arrival Day, Al Ula

The airport is roughly 30 minutes from the town of Al Ula. Consider hiring a rental car for ease of transport during your Al Ula visit.

Check in and rest at accommodation

Many of the high end resorts have pools, lounge areas and even hiking pathways to explore. Spend some time recovering from your flight or drive and explore your local!

Top: Shaden Resort (L) and Sahary Resort (R)
Bottom: Naseem Country House S accommodation

Explore Al Ula with any free time – multiple popup events and shows

If you arrive early, you can begin exploring Al Ula. Below are some wonderful options to consider and you’ll find others on the official website. Note that many activities require pre-purchased tickets which can be done online. However the Old Town and Jadidah areas do not require tickets and can be visited any time. It’s a great place to start your adventures!

If you have a favourite activity then it’s imperative to pre-purchase tickets because they sell out fast!

Arrival Day Activity Suggestions

Perfect ideas to get your heart racing & camera snapping on your first day in Al Ula!

Brave the Al Ula Zipline!
Relax to a symphony orchestra at the impressive Arch Rock
Travel to Dancing Rock within the Sharaan Nature Reserve
Explore the Dadan Lion Tombs
View Al Ula and Hegra Nabatean tombs from above in a stunning helicopter ride
Stargaze at Gharameel
Drive to Harrat Uwayrid Lookout & enjoy dinner at the top at Okto Greek Restaurant

See a famous artist at Maraya Concert Hall

The Maraya Concert Hall in Ashar Valley will knock your socks off! This huge building sits in the middle of the desert, surrounded by large sandstone rocks that are reflected in Maraya’s mirrored walls. You’ll need to allow some time outside for photographs before entering. There are an astonishing 9,740 mirrored panels on its exterior!

Fun Fact!
Maraya Concert Hall is in the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest mirrored building ever constructed!

The incredible reflections of the rocks on the mirrored Maraya complex

Its interior is also visually stunning and the concert hall has played host to some big names in recent years. Think Lionel Richie, Nile Rodgers, Jamiroquai, Craig David, Andrea Bocelli and Alicia Keys! Take a moment after the show to meander through the halls and enjoy the high ceilings and artwork on display.

The limited seating Maraya Concert Hall which allows an intimate experience with the artists

Take a moment to enjoy the foyer after the show

Dinner at Michelin Chef Restaurant, Maraya Social

After the show, head to Jason Atherton’s newest restaurant: Maraya Social. As the owner of multiple Michelin-starred restaurants worldwide, Jason lives up to his culinary namesake in this fine dining concept atop the mirrored Maraya structure. Guests can feast inside or outside, with access to the rooftop for some spectacular pictures.

Michelin star chef awarded Maraya Social restaurant

Maraya Social serves a fusion of Mediterranean, Arabian and British food, with high-quality mocktails and even a sommelier-sourced alcohol-free temperanillo on offer during our visit!

After dinner, it’s imperative to venture outside to the terrace and climb the illuminated steps for some magical views of the Al Ula rocks lit up at night.

On top of the Maraya building, reflecting the Al Ula rocks at night

Overnight Al Ula

Time to head back to your accommodation for a well earned sleep!

The impressive rock guarding the entry at Shaden Resort

Day 2
Al Ula Old Town Tour

Discover Al Ula’s not so distant past on an Old Town Tour! Tickets sell fast so be sure to secure yours ahead of time. Al Ula has a fascinating history, being an essential settlement along the pilgrimate route from Damascus to Makkah in the 12th century. The mud houses were attached to one another in order to provide fortification and the original city was accessed by 14 gates, allowing refuge to travellers, pilgrims and other visitors. These gates were opened in the morning and closed in the evening. Remarkably, the town was inhabited up until the early 1980s.

Today, visitors can explore the maze of nearly 900 houses, 400 shops and 5 town squares. The Old Town of Al Ula contains remnants of the original stone and mud brick buildings, as well as views of a castle dating back to the 10th century.

Al Ula Old Town mud brick structures and the public shuttle buses available to transport guests

Desert X hike and art exhibition

The Desert X installation was also another of my favourites! In its second year running, this extraordinary open air art exhibition showcases contemporary artworks by 15 Saudi and international artists. With free entry and shuttle buses that take visitors from the car park, through a cavern in the mountain and emerging at the welcome centre, it’s not to be missed! Guests are greeted with free water bottles and a map of the desert landscape with the location of each art piece.

With a theme of ‘mirage and oasis’ paving the way for the commissioned works this year, the curations were a sight to behold. A special mention must go to Jim Denevan’s variable sized pyramids that he single-handedly crafted in concentric circles! Comfortable walking shoes and lots of water are a must.

The arrival circle at Desert X Art Installation

L: Artist Ayman Zedani, R: Artist Serge Attukwei Clottey

L: Artist Zeinab Alhashemi, R: Artist Claudia Comte

Lunch at Circolo Restaurant, Al Ula

On the edge of the Al Ula Oasis within the Al Jadidah district lies this charming Italian eatery. Serving up artisanal wood-fired oven pizzas, carefully crafted small plates and delicious gelato, the casual rustic setting of Circolo certainly is charming. A quick glance through the menu below will have your tastebuds pining!

Guests have the option of sitting outdoors on the terrace overlooking the oasis and mountains or inside with views through the floor to ceiling windows.

We opted for a fresh light lunch, with Circolo’s beetroot and asparagus salad, marinated seafood salad and bresaola. This was completed with two scoops of the daily icecream selection of course!

Small plates on offer at Circolo Restaurant, Al Jadidah District, Al Ula

Hot Tip!
The Al Ula Oasis Trail is easily accessible from Circolo Restaurant. A little jaunt through the towering date palms and fragrant citrus trees will help to curb the caloric damage from lunch!

Sunset at Elephant Rock, Al Ula

One of the most iconic sights in Al Ula is Jabal AlFil, or Elephant Rock in English. Over time, the trunk and body of this red sandstone monolith have been shaped by years of wind and water erosion. This huge ‘animal’ stands alone from the other gigantic structures and is the driving force of much tourism within Al Ula.

In years past, Elephant Rock has been open to the public at all hours but due to the huge numbers of tourists now inhabiting its space, there is now a dedicated car park and opening hours. To the credit of the tourism team, there is now some popup food trucks, sunken booths and live music at the site. Sunsets are notoriously spectacular at Elephant Rock, so its worth settling in for some fun pictures and icecream!

Enjoying icecream in the cafe ‘booths’ at Elephant Rock

Jar Rock

Just across the horizon from Elephant Rock is Jar Rock, a natural erosion in the shape of a vase, almost perfectly symmetrical. Some think it looks more like a bottle or a bowling pin. You’ll have to see it to decide! There is no parking at the rock so access is via a hike along some slippery rocks and a steep drop, so it’s not recommended for children. We didn’t have time for this hike but with a good camera zoom, you’ll get the shot you need!

Finger Rock

Located on the Winter Park roundabout, there’s no guessing why this rock is named as such!

Live Theatre Show in Al Ula Oasis – “Path of Poets”

One of the less-well advertised events at Al Ula are the live theatre performances that occur during the Al Ula Arts Festival in the Al Ula Oasis. I was equal parts stunned and captivated by the creative storytelling in the live immersion show called “Path of Poets”. This was a recreation of the life of the celebrated poet Jamil bin Muammar, sharing the story of Buthaina.

The Cast of “Path of Poets”, live theatre in the Al Ula Oasis

Guests receive a headset on arrival with English translation, which is timed perfectly to the Arabic script on set. The music is extremely loud however, so it can be a challenge to follow the headset. With camels, caravans, Arabic props and a talented cast, this live theatre was enticing, juicy and entirely enthralling!

Each year a different play is on show so I’d highly recommend buying tickets to this experience!

And for a little teaser of the fight scene…

Dinner and live music at Alfa’s Boho Restaurant & Retreat

Alfa’s was a major surprise packet! Upon arriving to the carpark and visualising their long palm-tree lined walkway lit in fairylights, with the tease of house beats emanating from within; you’ll hardly believe you’re in the conservative country of Saudi Arabia!

The interior decor was on par with any Western world outdoor bar and restaurant, with a modern restaurant serving international cuisine. The menu selection was not extensive and came with a cover charge for the evening but it was worth it for the atmosphere and relaxing environment. (Note that there was also a cover charge the next day when we returned for lunch sans DJ, which was not worth it in my opinion).

The magical setting of Alfa’s Boho House

Live music and show in Al Ula Old Town & Jadidah District

After Alfa’s we continued on to Old Town and it became twice in one night that we were flabbergasted by the music on offer in Al Ula, Saudi Arabia! Whilst casually strolling through the market place of the Old Town, we came upon a live concert where a couple of hundred local people had congregated. There was laughter, singing, clapping and raucous dancing! It was delightful to see so many Saudi people relaxing and enjoying themselves!

Despite looking like complete foreigners amongst them, we were very much welcomed and encouraged to participate in the revelry.

A live band playing to a captive audience in Old Town Al Ula, Saudi Arabia

Jadidah District

Al Jadidah is a vibrant hub of restaurants, shops and beautiful murals. It’s a pedestrian-only area and is quickly making a name for itself as the atmospheric place to be in Al Ula! Guests are greeted by the world’s largest hand painted carpet and there are 5 unique squares for visitors to explore. There’s even an outdoor cinema with movies projected onto a wall in an unassuming backstreet! The buzz and energy at night must be seen to be believed!

The 5 Unique Squares of Jadidah District

Art Square: Come and see the local art and design galleries!
Gathering Square: A place to relax with shaded seating.
Muayada Square: Time to refuel from one of the many food trucks!
Oasis Square: Enjoy live music and twinkling lights at night.
Qanat Square: A beautiful open space between Al Jadidah and Al Ula Old Town.

Jadidah District and Old Town Al Ula night market

Overnight Al Ula

It’s worth an early night ahead of your early rise for the famed balloon flight tomorrow!

A long bumpy drive way leads to Sahary Resort

Day 3
Hot Air Balloon

Get ready to have your wildest dreams lived out! Hot air ballooning over the unique structures of Al Ula and the Nabatean tombs of Mada’in Saleh is not to be missed. The thrill of being airborne and soaring across the magical desert landscapes will stay with you for life!

Hot air balloons in Al Ula across the majestic desert landscape

BUT! Keep in mind the following tips:

Check the Al Ula website regularly for the release of tickets during Winter at Tantura festival. They sell extremely quickly.
Be prepared to have the weather ruin your day. Our first flight was cancelled due to a sandstorm and high winds. Fortunately we scored a ticket the next day.
It’s not enough to have a ticket. We had arrived early, pre-paid, were checked in, had our wrist bands on and in the long line ready to be assigned a balloon. A group of 3 guys stepped in front of us and we were then told there were no more balloons left. Fortunately they found us the very last balloon to keep our dream alive. Sadly though, there was a 50-fold queue behind us, all who had pre-purchased tickets yet were told they had missed out due to a misjudgement of ticket sales. Trust me, get there at 6am and beeline for the front of the queue!
Hot air balloons follow a different flight path on each launch. They’ll follow the air currents, so you may not be promised a certain view.
Don’t let the balloon make or break your Al Ula experience. There are so many amazing things to do and see. It’s not the be all and end all!

Vintage Landrover tour of Mada’in Saleh, Hegra

For Saudi Arabia’s answer to Jordan’s Petra, you can’t miss Hegra!

In fact, the ancient city was inhabited by the same Nabataean civilisation and you’ll find over 110 remarkably well preserved tombs at the site of Mada’in Saleh. In these tombs the Nabataean elite were laid to rest.

Hegra was also Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors will find other ancient structures such as wells and stone-lined water channels.

The Nabataean tombs at Hegra and photographing ancient Arabic rock inscriptions

Hegra Vintage Land Rover Tour

Visitors have multiple options for touring (available on the Al Ula website) but we went with the private 2 hour vintage Land Rover tour. An open air jeep took us around countless tombs and at each we were met by a Rawi (experienced guide and storyteller) who beguiled us with stories and information about each tomb.

The vintage Land Rover tour will show you around countless Nabataean tombs at Hegra (seen in background)

Tomb of Lihyan son of Kuza

The most famous Nabataean tomb at Hegra is within Qasr Al Farid (“The Lonely Castle”). This carved tomb that stands alone away from the rest is said to be the Tomb of Lihyan son of Kuza. It was chiseled out of the rock from the top down which is an old Nabataean architectural technique and a major part of the Nabataean roots.

Jabal Ithlib

Jabal Ithlib was a sacred and special place for the Nabataean people, with The Siq being a naturally-formed passage within the rocky outcrop. Within this area are inscriptions, shrines, altars and sanctuaries. To the right of this passage is the Diwan, a rock-cut hall where the Nabataean people gathered. Here they came for rituals, feasting or political discussion. Inside the hall you will see carved benches where people could relax and recline.

Face Rock

This towering rock can be seen on the Mada’in Saleh jeep tour. I dare you to dispute the name!

Al Ula Oasis

The oasis is a relaxing and revitalising place to come. Take a seat under a tree or wander amongst the date palms of the beautiful Al Ula valley. It also plays host to various food trucks and impromptu live theatre shows.

Explore Jadidah District & Old Town

If you’ve followed this itinerary then you will have discovered Jadidah & Old Town last night, enjoyed a show or two and discovered the plethora of boutique shops and souvenir carts. However, it’s also worth coming to these adjacent districts during the day. You’ll have the opportunity to watch local people go about their business, explore the market stalls more thoroughly and enjoy a relaxed pace. Much of the Al Ula Art Festival pieces are best viewed during the day.

The streets and shops of Jadidah and Al Ula Old Town

Lunch at Merkaz Restaurant, Al Ula Old Town

Merkaz Restaurant is conveniently situated in the heart of Old Town. Serving up authentic Saudi dishes and inspired by the timeless flavours of the Arabian Peninsula, this casual cafe offers visitors a chance to connect with tradition. There’s something for everyone, with a superb and extensive menu.

We enjoyed sinking back into the plush outdoor seating after a long day of walking and being waited on by the friendly staff. The glass-top tables are unique, showcasing elements of sand and wood within them, another touch which connects visitors with the desert.

Follow Old Town Al Ula’s main street to Merkaz Restaurant

Our delicious lunch at Merkaz Restaurant

Depart Al Ula evening

Sadly after an incredible few days in Al Ula, it’s time to depart. Don’t despair, you’ll be brimming with ideas for your next trip there!

To link this with another nearby iconic trip in Saudi Arabia, see my post on Asir and Jizan Provinces. You’ll get up close and personal with the heritage sites of Rijal Almaa, Soudah & Faifa Mountains, the Habala Hanging Village and Wadi Lajab!