Seychelles Survival Kit

A video of our Seychelles holiday by Matthew Starling Photography

Overview

Mention the Seychelles to most people and it will conjure imagery of an island holiday off of East Africa where poolside cocktails accompanied by crispy banana chips are the norm. This is definitely accurate! You’ll find historical information and information specific to each island on my upcoming individual posts for Mahé, Praslin and La Digue, with special posts dedicated to the best restaurants on Praslin Island and the perfect island hopping tour in the Seychelles! However, keep reading for some up-to-date and practical general information on visiting the Seychelles for a holiday.

Views after climbing the mountain at Kempinski Resort, Mahé

Under the palms at Kempinski Resort, Mahé

Transport Options

Between Islands

Air

Internal flights operate between Mahé and Praslin but not to La Digue (although there is private helicopter access). Flights are much quicker than ferry although by the time you have gone through check in they do equate much the same as ferry. The international airport is on Mahé, however Praslin has an air strip for local flights. Note that luggage is restricted to 20kg on internal flights thus ferry may be necessitated for those with heavy items.

Ferry

There are various ferry providers although one of the most popular is the Cat Cocos. The vessels are clean, quick and modern however the 60+ minute boat rides can induce symptoms of nausea if prone.

Route	Time
Mahé to Praslin	60 mins
Praslin to La Digue	15 mins
La Digue to Mahé	90 mins

On the Islands

Hire Car

I would highly recommend a hire car for Mahé and Praslin if you intend on staying for more than 2 – 3 days on your Seychelles holiday. The roads are extremely narrow with sharp drop offs and few kerbs so small cars are a plenty. We hired a Hyundai Creta, one of the larger car options, which was great for luggage transportation and still reasonably manoeuvrable on the roads. It is best to arrange car hire before arriving on the island of choice to ensure the car hire is there to greet you. La Digue is easily explored by bicycle (available for hire) and there is no need for car hire.

Alternatively, taxis can take you virtually anywhere you would like to go. The Seychelles is a quiet place in the evenings off-peak, so it pays to have the phone number / WhatsApp number of your taxi driver to avoid getting stuck at the end of the night.

Organised day trips (chartered speed boats / yachts) are also an option for island hopping to smaller more remote islands in the Seychelles.

Chartered yachts available for island hopping

Accommodation Options

Resort

The luxury resorts of Seychelles are second to none. We stayed at two, Kempinski on Mahé and Constance Lemuria on Praslin. It’s true that they are a picture perfect paradise: palms swaying, freshly cut coconuts at the ready, private beaches lapping at the shore of your suite and delicious breakfasts at the ready, with a choice of multiple restaurants and bars for later on. Everything is at the ready and you’ll feel spoiled (and safe). The downside to resorts are the expense, as well as the insular feeling that you are not truly exploring local culture and life. Since the resorts are all inclusive with multiple options for activities and eating, there is a tendency to remain within your resort (with good reason!).

I’d definitely recommend the resort experience but would also encourage visitors to stay in one of the below choices in order to truly gain an appreciation of the Seychelles during your holiday, or if your budget necessitates. It’s also worth noting that ‘billing to the room’ for your lunch/drinks/etc will quickly rack up, so be mindful of the impending costs awaiting you at check out!

Grand entrance at Kempinski Resort, Mahé

Boutique Hotel

This was probably my favourite option of all. A stay at Le Nautique whilst on La Digue Island provided us with:

Seclusion from the throes of tourists at resorts
A modern seafront suite with fully functional facilities
Personalised experiences
Pick up and drop off from the ferry terminal
A pool bar with the largest range of gins I’ve seen in a long time
A pool with daybeds overlooking the ocean
Direct beach access
Bicycle hire allowing us to depart with flexibility at any moment
Organised taxi pick up and returns if required
Deluxe morning breakfasts served to your seat
Seamless room cleaning which occurred each morning whenever we attended breakfast

Luxury villas and pool at Le Nautique, La Digue

We also stayed at a delightful hotel called Chalets Cote Mer in Praslin. Again, this had stunning views, a beautiful pool, daily delicious breakfasts and direct beach access via stone steps.

Poolside at Chalets Cote Mer, overlooking Baie St Anne, Praslin

Honestly, I don’t have many criticisms of the boutique hotel experience. If you’re clutching at straws though, then in general, smaller hotels only have one restaurant and bar, whereas resorts will have multiple. The facilities will be slightly less luxurious.

Self Catering Apartment

We spent 5 nights on Mahé self catering in the illustrious Villas de Jardin. The views from the bedroom and living areas were straight from a picture book, watching the rolling waves come in at Port Glaud. Whilst the accommodation is mid range in price, there are other more cost effective options also available. After 2.5 weeks of being waited on hand and foot in resorts and hotels, self catering did require an adjustment but also provided us with much independence and some well needed sleep-ins without a breakfast wake up call!

Two major downfall were the lack of oven and fridge space. We had a small stove cook top and mini bar fridge. This did limit our meal options and storage space significantly. On our first night we bought some pizzas en route to checking in at the accommodation, intending to heat them up in an oven for a quick dinner. To her credit, the manager kindly heated these up in her own oven and delivered them to our door! We had one of our best and most relaxing nights: staying in the apartment, watching 80s music clips on line (utilising the free wifi) and enjoying my favourite pink G&Ts! We were greeted warmly by the host and with detailed instruction on the facilities.

Large bay window and views of Port Glaud at Villas de Jardin, Mahé

As a side note, when we arrived on Mahé for the second time, the country had effectively gone back into a lockdown due to a recent Covid-19 cluster. Supermarkets were still open but all restaurants were closed. We felt very secure being away from tourists in our self catering apartment and were able to cook at our leisure. Subsequently this allowed us to continue enjoying our amazing Seychelles holiday!

AirBnB

We did not stay in AirBnB but I did explore this option, which is much like a self catered apartment. These options are particularly aplenty in the Côte d’Or region of Praslin, which I would highly recommend.

Meals and Half Board

Hotels and resorts will usually offer breakfast, either included or at an extra charge. I am a big fan of Booking.com and used their filter to select only places which included breakfast.

Half board includes both breakfast and dinner which is largely limited to resorts. These are usually buffet style and the generous number of food options available means you will likely be satisfied with 2 meals per day. Personally I am not the biggest fan of half board as I like to explore local restaurants independently in the evening, usually with some cocktails at a bar prior! However if you are traveling with a family, this is a very convenient option.

Awaiting our omelettes and crepes for breakfast at Le Nautique

Currency and Money

Local currency is the Seychellois Rupee and can be withdrawn from various cash point machines at the terminal and throughout Mahé, Praslin and La Digue. Most places also accept Euro for payment and most hotels accept credit card but a small amount of cash is helpful for tips and smaller local store purchases.

Cellular phone data and reception

SIM cards and data are available at the terminal. You’ll have wifi access at most hotels but it’s worthwhile having a point of connection whilst on rural trips and island hopping. You can also recharge your data at local deli / corner stores or at designated recharge booths dotted along the road.

The Truth About ‘Rainy Season’ & how it will affect your Seychelles holiday

Our Seychelles holiday spanned December 2020 & January 2021 during the height of Covid-19 and also during the height of ‘rainy season’. The Seychelles were one of the only (safe) destinations possible to holiday to, in quite a formidable time. However, we had read that it was also the height of the rainy season and to be prepared for this.

We spent 3 weeks amongst Mahé, Praslin and La Digue and probably had 4-5 days where rain was restrictive in our activities. For the most part, a rain shower will come to completion within a few minutes and may occur every day or two. It will not impact on your activities. However on those few days of storms, we had unrelenting rain for much of the day. To be honest we still had a wonderful time, popping in to local bars for a cold Seybrew whenever the rain came down. For me it was not as much of a hindrance as I had expected however I think luck does play a strong part. If it rained non stop for 3 weeks we would not have had the same wonderful experience.

Views from Chez Jules Restaurant, La Digue, during a rainstorm

Unmissable Holiday Highlights

Kayak and swim at Baie Lazare, Kempinski Resort, Mahé
Climb Morne Seychellois, the highest peak on Mahé
See turtles nesting at Lemuria Beach, Praslin
Spend a day at Anse Georgette, Praslin
Dinner on ‘The Rocks’ at The Nest, Constance Lemuria
Views from the top of Tee 15, Constance Lemuria Golf Course
Hold a Coco de Mer coconut at Vallei de Mai National Park, Praslin
Watch Aldabra tortoises (you’ll find them everywhere!)
Enjoy a Seybrew at a swim up pool bar
Cousin island wildlife
Try the local Takamaka rum
Feed the bat fish on a private yacht charter
Dinner at Les Rocher, Praslin
Côte d’Or beach day, Praslin
Drinks and seafood at Cafe des Artes, Praslin
Cycle around La Digue
Photograph the unique rock formations at Source d’Argent, La Digue
Hike from Grand Anse to Petite Anse to Anse Cocos, La Digue
Enjoy a cocktail at Cocos Beach Bar, La Digue
Sunset banquet dinner from the top of the mountain at Belle Vue Snack Restaurant, La Digue
Try the coconut milkshake at Bikini Bottoms Bar, La Digue
Take in a poolside sunset and swim at La Nautique Hotel, La Digue

Feeding Batfish near Cousin Island on a day of island hopping

Other noteworthy points

Do not underestimate the importance of insect repellant!
Take Sudocream or topical anaesthetic ointments for those mosquitos who are successful
For those who religiously moisturise their skin, don’t bother! The air is so humid you won’t need it
Pack suncream and sunglasses
Lightweight layered clothes are best
Keep in mind that internal flights have a check in baggage capacity of 20kg so don’t utilise all of your international flight baggage allowance if you wish to fly between islands
Pack some rainy day activities if traveling in the rain season
Take note of ‘no swimming’ signs as these beaches have strong currents
Don’t park your vehicle under a coconut tree!

Sunset dinner setting at The Rocks, The Nest Restaurant, Constance Lemuria, Praslin

Ultimately, a Seychelles holiday is variable according to the tourist and can include luxury and pampering or outdoor hiking and adventure activities… or both!