Highlights of Southern Montenegro
Overview
Montenegro is a stunning country in the Balkans with rugged mountains, medieval villages, fortified towns, gigantic fjords and beautiful beaches along the Adriatic Coast. It became part of Yugoslavia after the First World War and following the break up of Yugoslavia, the republics of Serbia and Montenegro together proclaimed a federation. Montenegro declared its independence in May 2006, with a peaceful dissolution of the confederation.
This write up is concentrated on the south however northern Montenegro is home to additional scenic displays worth visiting: limestone peaks, glacial lakes, the 1300 metre deep Tara River Canyon and Durmitor National Park.
Although Montenegro is small, it would be ideal to spend 5-7 days for a comfortable journey, allowing a meandering trip around the country.
Day Trip from Dubrovnik
It is possible to visit Montenegro from Dubrovnik (which I did), as the border is a mere hour away. The day trip from Dubrovnik allowed me to visit all places listed in the Highlights section below. Additionally, it had the benefit of passing through Općina Župa Dubrovačka: a municipality and valley located in Dubrovnik-Neretva County in south-eastern Croatia. This took us past many small (and incredibly beautiful!) Croatian towns dotted along the cliff face overlooking the Adriatic Sea; including Kupari, Mlini, Soline, Plat, Obod and Cavtat. After a 20 minute coffee break at a Konoba (Croatian: tavern) we drove through the Croatia-Montenegro border and past the small coastal towns of Igalo and Herceg Novi, next past the Kanli Kula fortress high up on the mountain and onwards to the entrance of the Bay of Kotor.
Below: Scenes en route from Dubrovnik to Montenegro
Highlights
Bay of Kotor
Kamenari
Our Lady of the Rocks
Sveti Djordje / ‘The Isle of the Dead’
Perast
Kotor
Lady of Remedy Church on the Hill
Budva
Tivat ferry
Bay of Kotor
This magnificent bay has been inhabited since antiquity and is the southernmost part of Dalmatia. With its well preserved medieval towns dotted along the coastline boasting unmatched history and culture, it has been designated a UNESCO protected site. There is no wonder this is the crown jewel of Montenegro! It’s impossible to bypass the beautiful vistas on a trip to this country. The closest place I could liken it to on my travels was Milford Sound in New Zealand: high mountains cascading downwards towards the ravines filled with glistening water below, with bays opening up through narrow channels of water.
The ‘Bay of Kotor’ is composed of several smaller bays, united by small inlets of water. The outermost part at its oceanic entrance is the Bay of Herceg Novi, which flows into the Bay of Tivat. After passing through the small channel of water flanked by Kamenari and Lepatani (the Verge Strait, near where the ferry crosses), a grandiose display unfolds, with the two innermost bays free to explore: the Bay of Risan in the northwest and the Bay of Kotor in the southeast. (Note that the bay as a whole is called the Bay of Kotor and is traditionally what people refer to when using this term, however there is also a smaller subsection of the bay also called the Bay of Kotor, by the town of Kotor).
The next sections in this post highlight three of the most beautiful regions within the Bay of Kotor: Our Lady of the Rocks, Perast and Kotor.
Kamenari
Kamenari is a quaint town at the base of the mountain which lies within the Bay of Kotor. It’s also home to the Kamenari – Lepetani ferry (see above Google Maps image), which transports passengers and cars directly across the narrow neck before reaching the last open section of the mesmerising Bay. It is a fair question to ask why one may wish to use this instead of driving around the scenic bay, however it does provide much quicker access to Kotor Old Town if time is limited.
Our Lady of the Rocks
One of the most beautiful islands I have ever seen is Our Lady of the Rocks, which in actual fact is man made! It was artificially created with a bulwark of rocks and by sinking old and seized ships loaded with rocks, however legend of course has a different story…
The Legend of Our Lady of the Rocks
According to legend, local fishermen found an icon of Madonna & Child on a rock on Sveti Djordje (St George), the natural island adjacent Our Lady of the Rocks, on 22 July 1452 after returning from a dangerous voyage.
One of the sailors had injured his leg and the next morning, it was miraculously healed.
After this, they vowed to build a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary on a rock near where they found the figure. Other sailors heard of the miracle and it became tradition to lay a rock in the bay after returning from each successful voyage. Over centuries, these rocks created the islet until eventually, the church had a platform to be built.
Set off the coast of Perast, the island has a Roman Catholic church and a museum attached. The church houses numerous paintings, silver products and a famous tapestry. Access is via a small speedboat from the mainland to the island. When I visited, entrance to the island was €9 (including the boat trip) and an additional €1.50 to enter the church. Most boat drivers will come back for you 30 – 45 minutes later.
Sveti Djordje / ‘The Isle of the Dead’
Adjacent Our Lady of the Rocks is the natural island called Sveti Djordje. It is inaccessible to the public but you’ll be able to see a traditional style church and tall cypress trees. On this island is a 7th century Benedictine monastery and a cemetery, where many prominent people from Perast have been buried. You’ll have some wonderful views of this island on the boat trip to Our Lady of the Rocks.
Sveti Djordje is most famous for its story of Ante and Katica…
The Story of Ante & Katica
During the Napoleonic invasion in October 1813, the French lay in wait on Sveti Djordje while the men of Perast found protection in the Tower of Sveti Kriz above Perast.
One of the French soldiers, Ante Slovic, was from northern Croatia, and betrothed to a girl from Perast called Katica.
The French opened fire on Sveti Kriz but one of the cannonballs fell short and hit Katica’s house. She was killed in the impact.
Ante was devastated and did not leave the Bay of Kotor with his fellow soldiers but rather stayed on Sveti Djordje, becoming a monk in the monastery where he rang the church bells, and was eventually buried next to Katica after he died.
Perast
Whilst Perast is most frequently visited for its direct access to Our Lady of the Rocks island, it is a truly beautiful and charming town in its own right. Nestled at the base of the river canyon with the luscious green Hill of St Ilija towering above it, Perast is a small village of ancient homes with red terracotta rooves. It sits on a cape that separates the Bay of Risan from the Bay of Kotor and overlooks the Verge strait, the narrowest part of the Bay of Kotor.
Kotor Old Town
The Mediterranean port of Kotor is surrounded by fortifications built during the Venetian period. It’s got a great vibe and it’s the administrative centre of the Kotor municipality, with a population of 13,510 including the surrounding region. Given its location, it’s a popular stop for cruise ships and the early 2000s saw a tremendous rise in tourists. It has one of the best preserved medieval old towns in the Adriatic and after traveling to many of them, it was one of my favourites.
Side note: spare a thought for the cats of Kotor. They’re so abundant in number that the city has a cat museum, cat stores, a Cats’ Square (Trg od mačaka) and even a charity called Kotor Kitties which attempts to help with spaying and neutering.
Kotor Old Town has many options for walking tours with guides, most of them around 90 minutes. I did join one of these but I must say that at the time, it was peak tourist season and hearing above the murmur of the crowd was a little difficult. This aside, it’s a great way to be acquainted with some of the historical and culturally important sites within the walls:
- The Main Gate
- The Baroque style palaces around Flour Square, of the Bizanti and Beskuća families
- Cathedral of Saint Tryphon, consecrated in 1166
It wasn’t long though before I was itching to escape the group and explore on my own. I just can’t explain the thrill of discovering an ‘Old Town’ all on your own! It’s truly one of my favourite activities and this definitely reminded me of the thrill of discovering Old Town Dubrovnik. After stopping in to various locally made craft, leather and gifts shops, I found myself in Bokun Bar with a lush stein of Lav Pivo beer in hand. This Serbian lager was being enjoyed by countless other patrons who had crammed into this traditional pub and it was a hands down winner. The loud chit chat and background music had me every bit relaxed and hyped, all in one! Venturing in to these hidden vibrant waterholes is surely what life highlights are all about. I could hardly leave without enjoying the local Nikšićko lager however, and from here it was on to the next stop on our itinerary! The ease of a day trip is such that our coach was waiting at the bus stop mid afternoon on a busy road, ready for immediate pick up: no competing for parks with other drivers or worrying about the traffic.
Below: Kotor Old Town in the foreground and the Bay of Kotor in the background
Lady of Remedy Church on the Hill
If you have the time on your day trip (which fortunately I did but I also have a reasonable amount of energy so I made it happen to some extent) then make sure to climb up to the Lady of Remedy Church on the Hill for one of the best views across Kotor. This is the famous panorama over the Adriatic Sea that you’ll see advertised in travel magazines for the entire region and it’s simply breathtaking. The climb itself costs 8 euros and there’s a tiny ticket booth in Kotor Old Town where you must purchase your entrance prior. I started the trek upwards before realising this and was turned back around. It’s a descent ascent so don’t waste unnecessary breath: make sure you ask your guide to show you where the ticket booth is as it will save you considerable time wandering around the similarly looking streets.
The climb itself is absolutely beautiful, with a far reaching view across the Bay of Kotor. The footpath is a little rocky and it’s slippery in the rain, so I’d suggest wearing covered non-slip shoes.
Beyond this church is Fortress San Giovanni which I hear is also fabulous however I was rained out shortly after arriving at the Lady of Remedy, where I found myself crouching inside until the pelleting rain had diminished somewhat. Fortunately I had seen the view in the sunshine and taken most of my photographs but it was a little disappointing to miss the very top.
Below: Fortress San Giovanni
Budva
Riviera
The town of Budva and its associated riviera along the Adriatic Sea is known for its tourism, beautiful beaches and nightlife. It also has a famous well-preserved medieval wall around its Old Town and a row of seafront restaurants serving fresh seafood. There are 17 beaches spread out over more than 20 kilometres.
Restaurants
Another top recommendation whilst in Budva is to spend an afternoon stroll along the waterfront restaurants, select one and then just whittle the day away by tasting a variety of fresh seafood, fresh beer and sweet cakes. I stepped inside Jadran Restaurant and was swept off my feet with Krnje white fish, octopus, calamari, mussels and oysters. The waiters were extremely charming and had me devouring the pages of the menu whilst simultaneously taking in the nautical themed backdrop. Proceedings began with a fresh stein of Montenegrin Nikšićko lager and I couldn’t leave without sampling the Vranac, a black-skinned varietal native to mountainous Montenegro.
Old Town
Without a doubt, the Stari Grad (Old Town) is one of the star attractions of Budva. You’ll feel as if you’ve stepped within a mini Dubrovnik once passing the fortified walls and traversing the narrow cobblestoned streets. Take a few hours to meander around the streets and forget about life! If you’ve followed this itinerary and have already stopped in at one of the famous Riviera restaurants, then be sure to satisfy your sweet tooth with a sweet cake at Cafe Mozart in Old Town!
Tivat ferry
The end of our day trip had us meet the bus at Budva (which I sprinted to hail down as I was 10 minutes late after getting lost on the Riviera promenade!) and drive to Tivat, where we caught the ferry (mentioned above) from Lepetani back to Kemenari. From here we drove back to Dubrovnik. What an amazing day. One I’d recommend to all staying in Dubrovnik! If you have the time, be sure to visit Montenegro and stay a while. It is magnificent.
