BAHRAIN

Bahrain for the Beginner (and Intermediate)

Modern Bahrain in the background, as seen from Qal’at al-Bahrain (Bahrain fort)

The Kingdom of Bahrain (aka ‘the two seas’), the site of the ancient Dilmun civilization, is not usually at the top of the standard traveller’s ‘must visit’ list. However, there’s a reason that the population consists of virtually 50% non-nationals which swells to even greater numbers on weekends when Saudi nationals and expats flock across the King Fahad Causeway to join in the action. It’s a tiny jam packed island in the Gulf with options for singles, couples and families who are either looking for some R&R, nightlife or some unique adventures.

On the King Fahad Causeway; the entrance to Bab Al-Bahrain (Gold Souq); an aerial of Old Bahrain; luxury at the Ritz Carlton Hotel; and experiencing the extreme weather outside Arad Fort in Muharraq

Affectionately known as the Vegas of the Middle East, Bahrain is slightly more au fait with Western norms. However despite their tolerance, a reciprocal respect  of their own traditional customs goes a long way. I have traveled to numerous other countries in the Middle East and I must say, when traveling as a single female, whether using ubers or just walking alone, I have felt the least conspicuous in this little country, second only to perhaps the city of Dubai.  Notably in the more traditional quarters of town and near/within any mosques, it is essential to be covered appropriately.

Traditional houses in Muharraq (Shaikh Isa bin Ali House); boats docked at Sitra Fisherman’s Port (the departure point to Al Dar Island); night lights over The Lagoon Park, Amwaj Islands; a friendly camel at The Royal Camel Farm; inside Arad Fort; and the entrance to Qal’at al-Bahrain (Bahrain Fort)

If you are visiting and wish to see places to the south of the island, you will definitely benefit from hiring a car or booking a driver as otherwise you must patiently wait for the public bus. This drive will take you away from the built up city of buildings, hotels and cafes and down through the desert past the ‘nodding donkeys’ (oil pumpjacks), with various locations of interest along the way and of course, more resorts along the coastline. The very southern tip of the island holds the Durrat Marina which provides access to Hawar Island via ferry.

Traditional arabic coffee on Hawar Island; the serene beach at Al Dar Island; shisha at The Sofitel Hotel for Halloween 2018; and views from The Gulf Hotel

I’ve been to Bahrain a few times now and each time have visited different sites, stayed in different places and had drinks in the highest end cocktail bars down to the most grungy pubs you dare imagine. It’s a feast for the senses. So here are my top suggestions for activities, accommodation and enjoyment! You can comfortably fit most of them into an enjoyable 6-7 day visit. Manama is the capital city and is home to many of these suggestions but the island is equipped with many areas, all with a distinct offer to make to the traveller.

Bahrain is a crazy place and if you stop to investigate even a little under the surface, you will be completely surprised…..

Shajarat al Hayat (The Tree of Life): a single tree growing in the middle of nowhere with an unknown water supply, attracting approximately 65,000 visitors per year