Zagreb: a bustling metropolis
Overview
Zagreb is the capital of Croatia and the largest city, with a population of approximately 800,000. Affectionately known as ‘the city of museums’, it has more museums per square metre than in any other city!
Sometimes it is overlooked in a Croatian itinerary but it has so much to offer and is a vibrant hub of culture, history, amazing sights, great food and wine! I’d definitely recommend and wish we had longer there!
The city is effectively divided into 3 areas:
- Lower Town
- Upper Town
- New Zagreb
Lower Town (Donji grad) is where most people enter the city and provides the first impression of a town full of wide boulevards, huge open squares, prestigious hotels and regal neo-classical government buildings. It is spacious, green and inviting with modern cafes and a rich exciting nightlife, whilst providing the stage for many theatre events, opera and musical concerts.
Upper Town (Gornji grad) is distinctly more intimate, cosy and medieval in architecture. A large city square (Jelačić Square) divides the upper from the lower town and can be reached either on foot or by the city funicular.
New Zagreb (Novi Zagreb) is full of high rise buildings and has little to offer visitors.
The majority of the below essential stops can be seen in a jam-packed day although it would leave little time to explore the museums. I would recommend spending 2-3 days to enjoy a more relaxed pace of exploration, especially if you have mobility issues as much of Zagreb is pedestrian traffic only.
Essentials
Upper Town (Gornji grad)
Tkalčićeva Street
Cathedral of Zagreb
Statue of Marija Jurić Zagorka
St George Statue
The Stone Gate & Virgin Mary Shrine
St Mark’s Church
Presidential Palace
Croatian Parliament
Palača Grlečić-Jelačić
Museum of Broken Relationships
City Museum
The Gallery of Naïve Art
Lotrščak Tower
Funicular
Licitar hearts
Lower Town
Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Jelačić)
It’s impossible to miss Jelačić Square, a large sprawling meeting point for thousands of tourists, surrounded by cafes, restaurants, tourist stores, stalls selling all kinds of novelty goods. As a pedestrian zone only (with tram access to one side), I was completely amazed at the sheer size and number of people it could accommodate.
The square is named after the 19th century ruler, Count Josip Jelačić, who was considered an expert military strategist.
Josip Jelačić statue
This large statue of ban Josip Jelačić on a horse was created by Austrian sculptor Anton Dominik Fernkorn and was installed in 1866 by Austrian authorities, despite outcry from those in Zagreb who viewed Jelačić as a traitor.
The statue was removed in 1947 at the hands of the new Communist government of Yugoslavia who were disenfranchised with his Croatian nationalist loyalties. He was labelled a ‘servant of foreign interests’.
However a curator of the Gliptoteka Gallery, Antun Bauer, kept the statue in the basement and with the end of Yugoslavia in 1990, the statue was returned to the square.
Dolac Market
Locals refer to this farmers market as the “Belly of Zagreb” and it’s worth a visit to this daily market which is open in the mornings if you’re self-catering. Here you will find regional farm goods: vegetables, cheese, meat, fresh seafood and Croatian artisanal items such as jams and preserves. Adjacent the Dolac Market via a stairway is Optovina, the city’s main flower market.
Lenuci ‘Green’ Horseshoe
The Green Horseshoe is a must-see and was a brain child of urban planner Lenuci, who set about remodelling the area after the 1880 Zagreb earthquake. Completed in 1889, the U-shaped area of seven landscaped town squares and botanical garden has won an award for its outstanding beauty.
The route is full of charming parks full of thousands of plants and flowers, towering trees with dense foliage, statues and park benches on which one can sit and drink in the surrounding serenity after meandering along the pathways.
Surrounding the park, one will find important buildings such as the Croatian National Theatre and Academy of Dramatic Arts.
(1) Marshal Tito Square (2) Mažuranić Square
(3) Marulić Square (4) King Tomislav Square
(5) Strossmayer Square (6) Zrinki Square
(A) Botanical Garden (B) Hotel Esplanade
(C) Starčević Square (D) Main Station
Art Pavilion
This art gallery is located on the Lenuci Horseshoe, near the Zagreb Central Station and houses continually changing artworks which reflect the culture and spirit of Zagreb. It’s grandiose facade is a proud icon of the city.
The Archaeological Museum
This museum holds over 450,000 artefacts and monuments from Croatia and particularly from Zagreb and surrounds. There are 5 main sections:
- Prehistory
- Egypt
- Antiquity
- Middle Ages
- Coins and Medals
Don’t miss the Egyptian mummy wrapped in linen!
Mimara Museum
This somewhat dubious museum was named after the 20th century art collector, Ante Topić Mimara, who was nicknamed the “Master swindler of Yugoslavia’. The exhibitions are permanent and were donated by Miramar who was linked with art theft during WWII and subsequently with forgery! Critics claim that some of the works by Canaletto, Rubens, Holbein, Velazquez, Goya, Monet, Renoir and Degas are indeed fakes. In the very least, the building is quite impressive.
Upper Town
Tkalčićeva Street
A visit to Zagreb is incomplete without a stroll, sit down meal or live music at a bar on this delightful street in the heart of the old town, which is lined with restaurants and cafes. During the day it’s a gorgeous street of low-rise painted houses with balconies to amble down. In the evening, a romantic meal followed by an energetic night spot is in order.
Zagreb Cathedral
Initially built in the 11th century, this magnificent cathedral was ruined after the 1880 earthquake and was redesigned with two tall towers by the Austrian architect Hermann Bolle. These towers are visible from afar and have become a landmark of the city.
Statue of Marija Jurić Zagorka
Zagorka was the first female professional journalist in Croatia and a champion of equal rights.
St George Statue
With two statues in the city dedicated to St George, this one is different to the depiction you will most likely see anywhere else in the world: St George but moments after slaying the dragon. Saint George is cast in bronze and the dragon shown in the finest red breccia stone.
The Stone Gate & Virgin Mary Shrine
The most significant oath site in Zagreb, you will be greeted with flickering candlelight, silent prayer and hope. It seems out of place but this significant site dates back to 1266 and marks a commitment by the citizens of Gradec to build strong city walls around the city, after they were granted the ‘Golden Bulla’, a free royal city on the hill of Zagreb. Only a few of their strong walls and city gates have survived, this being one of them.
Over many decades, citizens of Zagreb came here to find comfort and prayed for health, happiness, good luck and love. Many had their prayers answered and were commemorated by the many engravings of gratitude. Even when praying publicly was forbidden, citizens of Zagreb continued to visit the Stone Gate.
St Mark’s Church
Get that camera ready! The roof of this church is a tiled masterpiece! More than that, the interior holds several Meštrović sculpture masterpieces. It is one of the oldest buildings in Zagreb, built in the 13th century. However only one window in the south wall and the bell tower are preserved from this Romanesque period. It commands attention on St Mark’s Square.
Presidential Palace
Since 1991, this has been the official workplace for the President of Croatia but not his formal residence and is used for state functions and welcoming ceremonies for visiting dignitaries.
Croatian Parliament
The Croatian Parliament (the Sabor) is the representative body for the citizens of the Republic of Croatia. It is Croatia’s legislature. Parliament has been located on St Mark’s Square since 1737, in various buildings.
Grlečić-Jelačić Palace
Situated on St Mark’s Square, this is a historically important remodeling of the residential house of Josip de Fona, built after the Zagreb fire of 1731. The floors were completely rebuilt and preserved around 1776 and pay tribute to times past in upper Zagreb.
Museum of Broken Relationships
Recommended by a friend, this is probably the most fascinating museum I have ever visited! It documents the tragedy and heartbreak at the end of relationships, evoking a strange understanding and unitedness that these feelings have been dealt with by many. Objects have been donated by thwarted lovers from around the world and will demand your presence and attention much longer than you had anticipated!
City Museum
For an overview of Zagreb’s history, be sure to stop here and take a step back in time!
Gallery of Naïve Art
This fine arts museum hosts over 1900 works of art such as paintings, sculptures, drawings and prints. Initially a description of the works of peasants, the term naïve now describes a collective of works from self-taught artists who have achieved a high end level without formal training.
Lotrščak Tower
Built in the mid-13th century, this tower guarded the southern gate of the Gradec town wall. Listen for the traditional cannon shot that has marked noon every day since 1877.
Funicular
At 66 metres in length, this funicular connecting the upper and lower towns of Zagreb is one of the shortest in the world. Operational since 1890, the funicular has two cars for 28 passengers each (16 seated and 12 standing places) and runs at a speed of 1.5 m/s requiring 64 seconds to cross the distance. It leaves every 10 minutes from 6:30 to 24:00.
R: Funicular access at the top, from Upper Town
Cultural delights: Licitar hearts
You won’t help but notice these gorgeous red heart symbols of Zagreb: licitars. They appear on leaflets, shop signs, quiltworks and in bakeries. A warm honey dough cookie that takes weeks to prepare, they are baked and painted with a glossy edible red coating with messages in piped icing. Even UNESCO has recognised them with high significance for northern Croatian culture! Ensure you take them home to your loved ones as a memorable souvenir.
