Trogir: Be sure to stop here!
Overview
Voted best city-island by National Geographic in 2015, Trogir is not a city to be missed! It comprises two interlinking islands and the Old Town was listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997 due to its remarkable Venetian architecture. It is 27km west of Split, midway along Croatia’s coastline and great for a day trip. To reach the Old Town, one must cross a narrow waterway and onto the small islet that is only 500 metres long by 250 metres wide!
Its medieval core is surrounded by walls and is the best preserved Romesque-Gothic complex in all of central Europe. Inside this you will find a castle, tower, dwellings and palaces from the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods.
Trogir’s stunning seaside location makes it an ideal getaway without the freneticism of the larger towns of Dubrovnik and Split. With Dalmatian cuisine overlooking the sparkling Adriatic Sea, two yacht marinas and nightlife on Čiovo island, it’s a hard one to bypass.
Essentials
Historical medieval city core
Cathedral of St Lawrence – 13th century
West portal masterpiece by Radovan
The City Gate – 17th century
The City Walls – 15th century
The City Hall (Duke’s Palace) – 13th century
Palace Ćipiko – 15th century
The City Loggia – 15th century
Fortress Kamerlengo – 15th century
Historical Medieval City Core
Pro tip: take a wander through the medieval complex, buy an icecream and lose yourself in the maze of unique shops and galleries. You’ll find more detail about all of the historical sites of significance below but simply ambling about was a real adventure. If you’re a fan of the HBO Series, Game of Thrones, it’s worth mentioning that scenes from the city of Qarth were filmed here!
Cathedral of St Lawrence
This 13th century basilica has a bell tower which I would list as a must climb, due to it’s phenomenal views across the city and Adriatic. At 47 metres high, it is the highest part of the island and took more than 4 centuries to build with construction commencing in 1213. Be sure not to miss the Radovan portal or the Chapel of St John.
Fun fact: Legend says that whilst being tortured, St Lawrence voiced to his perpetrators “I’m well done, turn me over” and as such became titled the patron saint of chefs and comedians.
Radovan Masterpiece
The entrance to the Cathedral of Lawrence, the Portal of Radovan is the most well known and valuable monument in Trogir. Completed in part by Radovan and in part by his students, one can view scenes from life, from different seasons of the year and from the Bible. Two lions flank the portal and symbolise power and strength.
The City Gate & The City Walls
Locals frequently meet at ‘the gate’, the northern part of the city where the holes for the chains that would lift the bridge can still be seen. An extension of the main street, these gates have the statue of St John and previously had a Venetian lion.
The Southern gate is also impressive real estate, with a grandiose entrance through 16th century bolstered wooden doors and unparalleled views across to Čiovo Island.
We entered via the Northern gate and somehow after wandering through the Old Town, fortuitously found ourselves at the Southern gate! As the crow flies, the two are not far apart but successfully navigating your way through the maze of narrow laneways is another matter!
The City Hall (Duke’s Palace)
A large municipal clock tower and stunning Gothic architecture makes the City Hall a focal point from when viewing from atop the bell tower of St Lawrence or when standing in the main square of Old Town. Initially a residence for the duke symbolising political and economic strength, the palace has also functioned as a theatre and today serves as an administrative centre.
The Trogir Tourist Board (denoted by a Croatian flag and a white flag of Trogir with a blue castle) is adjacent this and also a masterpiece in its own right.
Palace Ćipiko
Several noble families connected to Venetian rulers built their palaces in the Old Town. Large Palace Ćipiko is one of these and is located across from the Cathedral of St Lawrence. It is a series of buildings connected in one with a gorgeous gothic facade and monumental courtyard, dating back to the early Medieval age. Small Palace Ćipiko is opposite the city loggia.
The City Loggia
The porch (loggia) in main Trogir square is built in Renaissance era style and has been used as a public property, a hideaway, a courtroom, negotiations and sales and finally as the place where the duke would address his people. Women were forbidden from entering. It is located next to the St Sebastian Church and Town Clock.
We were fortunate enough to witness a choir singing in the City Loggia from our outside table at Corte Bar: what an unforgettable travel moment!
Old Town Wells
Up to 50 old wells existed in Trogir supplying its locals with fresh water from tributes of the Pantan river. Current day preserved wells are decorated with emblems of different noble families and one such well is seen in front of the city hall.
Fortress Kamerlengo
Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit but this smaller scale castle but it is accessible to the public and allows views over the city and marina if one climbs the walls. The large open space within the castle is home to various events and concerts throughout the year, including the Moondance festival which was rated as one of Forbes top 7 European festivals.
