Top things to do in Thessaloniki – old and new!
Overview of Thessaloniki
Thessaloniki is a captivating city, enthralling visitors with its history of beauty and chaos, culture, lively streets and neighbourhoods, and vast sea views. It is a bustling port city on the Thermaic Gulf of the Aegean Sea in northern Greece.
Thessaloniki is a city of wild contrasts. In the downtown neighbourhood you’ll experience the most lively and modern cafes and bars. Conversely, the upper town will transport you back to Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman times. Sadly in the Great Fire of 1917 much of the city centre was destroyed. Since that time, rebuilding efforts have resulted in a modern European layout. The upper town provides incredible views across the sprawling city and is a great location for sunset. Fortunately, the Great Fire did not reach Ladadika, an area near the port which is today a thriving region of cafes, bars and restaurants hosted in the buildings of old!
What is most striking about Thessaloniki is the life and vibrancy amongst its streets. We spent our days exploring ancient ruins such as the old Byzantine Walls and the White Tower and our evenings revelling in music and nightlife at the waterfront and downtown areas.
For more on Greece…
Thessaloniki was the last stop on our epic road trip around mainland Greece, which we commenced in Athens. From here we flew to the Greek Islands, from Thessaloniki International Airport. Greece mainland and the islands comprised the basis for my post, ‘The Best of Greece in 3 Weeks‘!
Where is Thessaloniki?
Thessaloniki is a port city in northern Greece.
Top Things To Do
Take a walk along the Thessaloniki Promenade
Be dwarfed by the mansions in Aristotelous Square
Climb the White Tower
Enjoy a drink at Whope Bar
Experience dinner on the lively Emporiou Square
Bar hop along Egiptou Street in the famous Ladadika District
Explore the ruins of the Old City Walls
Admire the Triumphal Arch of Galerius
Visit the oldest Church in Thessaloniki – The Rotunda of St George
Explore Galerius Palace & the Roman Forum of Thessaloniki
Take in the street art in Downtown Thessaloniki
Enjoy a traditional Greek meal on Katouni Street in Ladadika
Refresh with a drink at Katouni Plaza
Tour the Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki
Have lunch at Little Big House
Walk through Pasha’s Garden
Photograph the Church of Saint Pavlos
Watch a show at the Ancient Theatre of Thessaloniki, Kratiko Theatre Dasous
Take in hilltop views overlooking the city of Thessaloniki
Have dinner at Kitchen Bar on the wharf
Enjoy a drink on Morichovou Square, Ladadika
Accommodation & Transport
What are my options?
Needless to say, in such an urban and cosmopolitan city, options are aplenty! You’ll find accommodation to suit all budgets. The best place to base yourself for a few days is near the wharf and promenade. Take note that if you are driving, parking options are extremely limited. For this reason, we returned our Mazda 2 that we had collected in Athens to the SixT Car Hire centre in Thessaloniki. This particular car company is situated right by the promenade and is an easy walk back to most hotels. However if you require a car park, you’ll likely need to stay further out of the town centre.
Where did we stay?
We chose an affordable but comfortable and very vogue hotel called Colors Urban Hotel. Besides the hilarious sayings written in large ink across each room (we had the ‘pep talk’ theme room), it is EXTREMELY close to both the waterfront promenade and the downtown nightlife. I’d highly recommend it for location alone. The breakfast was delicious and had a great variety of options.
Any other advice?
Yes! Pack flat shoes! The cobblestone streets and city hills are not very high heel friendly!
Take a walk along the Thessaloniki Promenade
Undoubtedly one of the best things to do in Thessaloniki is to take a stroll along the bustling promenade. The street is wide and on one side is a footpath along the water’s edge, whilst the other is lined by seafood restaurants and cafes.
Discover mansions and cafes in Aristotelous Square
Along the waterfront promenade is Aristotelous Square, the most famous, central and historical square in Thessaloniki. It is the beating heart of the city: culturally, historically and politically.
The design of the square has changed significantly over the years. Initially the architecture boasted an oriental influence, however after the Great Fire of 1912, much of the city was destroyed and the square was redesigned. Today the U-shaped streets lining the square are home to some magnificent buildings and mansions. These include the 5-star Elektra Palace Hotel on the left and the city’s most famous movie theatre, the Olympion Theatre cinema.
Above all else, Aristotelous Square is a great place to enjoy a coffee and people watch!
Climb the White Tower
Built in the 15th century after the fall of Thessaloniki to the Ottomans, the White Tower is undeniably the most popular monument in Thessaloniki. Today it plays host to a unique museum, connecting the city’s rich past with its present. However, the White Tower has served multiple functions in the past. For example, it has been used as a fort to strengthen the port and coastline defence, as a garrison, prison, a communication centre for the Allied forces in WW1, air defence housing and even as the university’s meterological laboratory!
The museum within the White Tower is insightful and comprehensive, focusing on the transformations within the city over the centuries. It’s a brilliant way for interested individuals to understand the different cultures and historical events that have helped shape its identity. Note that all information boards in the museum are written in Greek, so English-speakers will need to purchase an audio set.
Views across the Thermaic Gulf are possible through the various arched fortress windows along the climb to the top. Additionally, magnificent open air vistas across Thessaloniki Port are the notable reward at the top of the White Tower.
R: Views of tourist boats on the Thessaloniki Port Harbour
Enjoy a drink at Whope Bar
By far one of the most fun experiences in Thessaloniki is Whope Bar! This trendy tropical-island themed bar is a refuge from the bustling city streets and it was the first place we visited after arriving in Thessaloniki!
Experience dinner on the lively Emporiou Square in the famous Ladadika District
One of the best things about Thessaloniki is the discoveries that lie waiting around every corner. This could not be more true than in the Ladadika area, a popular entertainment and nightspot near the waterfront!
Staying at the conveniently located Colors Urban Hotel, we had only to turn down one or two roads to be greeted with a completely new experience. Discovering Emporiou Square was a real treat! I must admit I had never heard of this square in my pre-trip research but the hive of noise and activity that was increasing in volume as we approached, had us excited to see what it had to offer! Emporiou Square is neatly nestled in a small paved clearing amongst some multi-level city restaurants and bars, at the convergence of Katouni, Edessis & Mina Streets.
Both young and old had congregated at any table they could find, with hurried wait staff from Takadum Restaurant crossing the street to eagerly seat new customers and serve up some delicious meals.
What did we choose from the Takadum Restaurant menu?
We enjoyed a delicious meal of Greek salad, whole fish, fried zucchini balls and grilled mushrooms. Of course there was also a complementary dessert cake to polish off at the end! Notable mention to the rustic tin carafe in which my rosé wine was served!
Bar hop along Egiptou Street
For the eclectic and busy bar scene of Thessaloniki, you can not bypass Egiptou Street in the Ladadika District. It’s loud, brash, non-conformative and a meet-up hub for all ages who want to let their hair down. It’s a place with no apparent dress code and you’ll see multiple wardrobes on display. Note that some of the nearby bars and restaurants will require more strict dress codes.
With names the likes of Stones Rock Bar, Wonderwall Fun Bar and ‘The Pub’, there’s something for everyone.
A precarious story with a happy ending…
By far the most eventful time I had on Egiptou Street was dropping my mobile phone off the balcony from the 3 storeys high Wonderwall Fun Bar onto the hard paved street below. In a completely miraculous set of events, it survived the fall and was collected for me by a patron below who held on to it for me as I fled down the steps to retrieve it! Travel win!
R: A lamp advertising a popular local beer in Greece, Alfa
Explore the ruins of the Old City Walls
Ancient Thessaloniki was protected by a fortress that also served as a boundary between the town and surrounding agricultural area. To this day, parts of these walls that were constructed in the 3rd and 4th centuries BC remain.
As visitors ascend the hill to the Heptapyrgion, they will encounter these magnificent remains that date back to the Middle Ages.
Admire the Triumphal Arch of Galerius
The 4th century Roman emperor Galerius commissioned both the Triumphal Arch and the Rotunda of St George as elements of an imperial precinct linked to his Thessaloniki palace. They were connected by a road that ran through the arch. The Triumphal Arch (or ‘Kamara’) was built in 305 AD to celebrate a victory over the Persians. Today only 2 original pillars and an arch remain, which are intricately decorated with battle scenes.
The Rotunda Church of St George
The Rotunda of St George is the oldest church in Thessaloniki and its ruins form part of Roman Emperor Galerius’ 4th century palace. Construction of the arch spanned the years 298 and 299 AD and it was dedicated in 303 AD. Some Greek publications claim it is the oldest Christian church in the world however, other competitors have also vied for that title. It is certainly the most important surviving example of a church from the early Christian period of the Greek-speaking part of the Roman Empire.
The various functions of the Rotunda Church since its construction
Its purpose has changed significantly through the years after its initial function as Emperor Galerius’ Mausoleum after his death in 311 AD. For 1200 years it was used as a Christian church until the city fell to the Ottomans who converted it into a mosque in 1512. Later in 1912, when the Greeks recaptured the city during the Balkan War, it was reconsecrated as a church. In current days, The Rotunda is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and still functions as a church on some days of the year.
Explore Galerius Palace & the Roman Forum of Thessaloniki
The Galerian Complex includes multiple important monuments and buildings, remnants of which can be seen to this day.
The Roman Forum of Thessaloniki is located at the upper side of Aristotelous Square. It is a large two-terraced forum and features two-storey stoas, two Roman baths (one has been excavated and one remains buried under the city) and a small theatre used for gladiator games. I found the layout extremely fascinating as the forum lies in stark contrast to the current day high rise apartment blocks surrounding it.
Take in the street art in Downtown Thessaloniki
It’s impossible to miss the incredible graffiti and street art in Downtown Thessaloniki. Just by wandering around the narrow alleyways you’ll come across the works of some talented artists that tell a story of the city’s grunge theme.
Enjoy a traditional Greek meal on Katouni Street
The ambience at dusk on Katouni Street has a real vibe. Excited diners wander down the street deciding on which restaurant to sit at, ready for a delicious meal and an exciting evening ahead. Spruikers stand proudly by their menus ready to explain their entire selection with even the faintest of eye contact.
Be sure to heed the above warning re: flat footwear. There were a few awkward gazelles in their high heels perilously close to acute ankle injury during our visits.
We enjoyed a fresh seafood meal at Akratos Oinos, including grilled octopus, seabass, potato and sausage salad and some appetisers. I highly recommend it! As dusk gives way to evening, the change in colours along the street is something to behold.
Refresh with a drink at Katouni Plaza
At the end of Katouni Street is Katouni Plaza, a bustling square lined by cafes and a few restaurants and centred around an ornate fountain. We stopped in at a little tavern one afternoon to relax and watched children chase pigeons and adults engaged in hearty conversation and laughter whilst seated in the many deck chairs in the square.
Tour the Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki
The remarkable Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki is situated on the north eastern corner of the Acropolis of Thessaloniki. It is also known as Eptapyrgio or by the Ottomon Turkish name, Yedi Kule, the latter thought to be named after the Yedikule Fortress in Istanbul, Turkey. It spans both Byzantine and Ottoman eras and was converted into a prison in the late 19th century, which remained open until 1989.
To access the Heptapyrgion from downtown accommodation requires a 45 minute (mostly uphill) trek. Visitors can enter the structure through a narrow corridor with the guardhouse at its end. Inside you’ll feel blocked off from the world, particularly in the dark, cold solitary confinement wing.
Views across the city are stunning from the Heptapyrgion!
Have lunch at Little Big House
On the way down from the Heptapyrgion is a hospitable, soulful and inviting cafe/hostel called Little Big House. Set on a rooftop terrace, you’ll be served local flavours with a smile. The gentle house beats and cold drinks are soothing after a day of walking in the sun. Don’t forget to check out their merch shop!
Set in the centre of the Old City, the vision of Little Big House says it all!
Little Big House hostel and cafe is a place where people from all over the world come together, meet, have a good time, share their thoughts, create special memories, bridging all their beautiful diversities that make our world unique and colorful.
Vision of Little Big House, from their website.
Walk through Pasha’s Garden
If time is short, then this park can be missed. It’s a rather unusual little-known park in the Old Town which is designed to carry with it an air of mystery. The park is dotted with strange half-ruined stones created into various structures. For example, one of these is a strange tunnel around an ornate fountain which leads nowhere. We walked through the tunnel but to be honest it screamed more of a sheltered abode for a homeless person than the mysticism it is advertised for. We saw later that these ‘ruins’ have been recently created and are not part of the centuries old heritage of Thessaloniki. Nevertheless, if you are walking from the Heptapyrgion to the Church of Saint Pavlos, you will likely wander through this peculiar park.
Photograph the Church of Saint Pavlos
This ornate church cuts an imposing figure on the slopes of the hill behind Thessaloniki.
There are actually 3 sites of interest here, dedicated to the actions of the Apostle Paul, who passed through the northern capital of Greece in 49 AD, preaching the word of Christ. In addition to the large Church of Saint Pavlos, there is a smaller chapel built on a site where Apostle Paul was thought to have sought refuge and drank from a nearby spring. It was here that he and Silas were though to have passed through in order to escape the riots that Paul’s preaching had caused in Thessaloniki town.
Watch a show at the Ancient Theatre of Thessaloniki, Kratiko Theatre Dasous
As one of the remaining functioning ancient theatres in Greece, Kratiko Theatre Dasous is set on the outskirts of Thessaloniki. We walked through the forest in the sweltering heat to reach its entrance, only to discover that entry is only available by event ticket purchase. Sadly there were no events during our time but if you have the opportunity to experience modern art in an ancient theatre, I’d say definitely do it!
Take in hilltop views overlooking the city of Thessaloniki
Despite a long unnecessary trek to Kratiko Theatre above, the cleansing smell of pine needles as we traversed the forest overlooking the city of Thessaloniki was a pleasurable activity in itself. (Granted I would have opted for it to be a few degrees cooler). The amazing views of the port and Old City are breathtaking.
Have dinner by the waters edge at Kitchen Bar on the wharf
One of my favourite things to do in Thessaloniki was visit the wharf at night. It’s a small precinct but the Kitchen Bar sets a cracking scene, with visitors enjoying late night drinks and tapas. Music fills the air whilst the tourist pirate ships pass by regularly in front of the bar, with its passengers all waving at the wharf patrons!
Enjoy a drink on Morichovou Square in Ladadika
Morichovou Square is a thriving and energetic square in Ladadika District, with a variety of bars available. The most popular appear to be U Fleku Garden, Rooftop Margarita Bar or Paláti. We enjoyed a few tipples of mastiha (local Greek spirit) one evening at U Fleku, a relaxed ground level bar amongst the street action. From here we saw countless people being turned away from the Rooftop Margarita Bar. I’d suggest that if you’re keen to check it out, then make a booking and dress smartly!
