Noosa Heads Highlights
Overview
“How would you describe Noosa Heads ‘dahhhling’?”, I overheard the tanned middle aged lady with perfectly coiffured hair, painted shellac nails, cotton neck tie, white linen clothes and high heels ask an equally well put together lady sitting across from her, whilst sipping Aperol Spritz’s on a sunny Saturday afternoon.
This is the quintessential picture on Hastings Street, where you go to be seen, to play with your hard earned cash, eat well, drink even better and shop indefinitely. It has a reputation for hosting the elite of society in their weekend holiday mansions, where Sundays are reserved for dusting off the cobwebs on the family yacht.
The reality is a little different if you step away for a minute from Hastings Street, even though there is much fun to be had along this strip!
Set in a nook on the Sunshine Coast, with a stunning Main Beach and a divine Headland where multiple national park walks are on offer, you’ll also find nature at its finest, wildlife aplenty and visitors wanting a cheap meal before an energising surf. It’s a famous beach resort town in Australia with one of only two everglades in the world, as well as a staunch river where holidayers can swim, jetski, stand up paddle board, snorkel and go fishing. A mere 2 hour drive north of Brisbane, you’d be crazy to leave this beautiful gem off of your bucket list, even if some of the clientele you’ll come across require some patience.
Highlights
Friday Night
Laguna Lookout
Pre Dinner: Miss Moneypenny’s
Dinner: Locale
Saturday
Brunch on Hastings Street
Shopping on Hastings or Eumundi Market
Lunch: Sails
Noosa Beach/ Watersports/ Hire a jetski
Dinner: Wasabi / Esmay
Sunday
Noosa Markets
Noosa Heads Coastal Walk
Lunch: Spirit House
Drink at Hong Sa Bar
Mt Tinbeerwah
Dinner: Season
Accommodation
The glitz and glam of Noosa Heads translates to accommodation, with a price tag surpassing most other coastal Queensland towns. The top players in accommodation on the most popular and accessible strip (Hastings Street) are the Sofitel and the Sebel and closeby up the hill adjacent the national park, Peppers Resort. There are various other hotels and airBnBs in the area.
I stayed at Peppers and it was a true delight. The additional services make this retreat a clear winner: a great pool, buggy service up and down the hill delivering guests to Hastings Street with a single phone call and balcony views over the National Park. The temperature-regulated pool is also to die for.
Suites are more like mini apartments kitted out with full accessories including washing machine and drier. Don’t forget to take a relaxing bath in the bubble spa! The interior design of the rooms is endearing and modern and perfect to set the tone for a relaxed tropical holiday.
Friday Night
Laguna Lookout
Accessible from a little path near Peppers, this can be done as a 30 minute hike to the top or by simply driving there. With views across , it’s a lovely ‘orienting’ spot.
Pre Dinner: Miss Moneypenny’s
This bouncing lively bar is just the ticket to slide into a cracking weekend! It’s definitely worth booking a table if you don’t enjoy waiting in line for a seat for too long. There’s a somewhat intimate feel here even though the restaurant is quite large. I had driven from Coolangatta in the south of Queensland to Noosa Heads on a Friday afternoon and arrived straight to this Hastings Street institution by dusk. I can’t tell you how well the Limoncello Spritz and Sydney Rock Oysters slid down!
Dinner: Locale
Think innovative Italian food in a vibing upbeat space, with wait staff who provide detailed descriptions of dishes and an interior of glass walls, black decor and plush banquettes.
Did I sell it yet? If you’re still dubious (I am not sure how this would be the case) then read on. Not only are the staff friendly to boot, they were willing to cater to dietary preferences at last minute and converted my degustation to a pescatorian version thereof. This included:
- Tonno: Raw walkers MSC grade Mooloolaba yellow fin tuna, pickled Maravista farm sunchoke, stracciatella, pistachio, Pilu bottarga
- Cicala: Moreton Bay bug tail, smoked eggplant, artichoke caponata, Yarra Valley salmon roe, beach herbs
- Fiori di Zucchine: Buffalo milk ricotta filled zucchini blossom, Maravista Farm baby beets, charred leek, aged balsamic
- Risotto: Organic Acquerello Carnaroli rice, Fraser Isle spanner crab, saffron, shellfish and Pernod butter, sea succulents, Pilu bottarga
Little did I know there was one more dish: a decadent dessert with my name on it!!
- Dolce: Buttermilk and vanilla pannacotta, local raspberry, white chocolate, pashmak, pistachio
Don’t miss this one of a kind restaurant at the top of Hastings Street which offers a margarita list of five choices (I went with the coconut option and of course, the chilli version!) and allows a quick buggy ride back up to the ideal accommodation at Peppers Resort.
Saturday
Brunch on Hastings Street
Hastings Street is the primary shopping strip of Noosa Heads, where you’ll find those hoping to flaunt their latest pay check on a variety of elaborate cafes and restaurants. Don’t get me wrong, the offerings are delicious and many beachside with stunning views.
My advice would be to plan breakfast based on your day’s activities. If you’ve not much planned, then spend a long lazy morning at one of the restaurants. If you plan on a hearty lunch and dinner interspersed with some shopping at the luxury label stores, then grab a coffee to go and a breakfast pastry from Tanglewood like I did!
Shopping on Hastings or Eumundi Market
Spend a luxe morning perusing all of the fashion boutique stores, intricately woven linens and jewellery with a vengeance. You’ll find labels such as Bridge, Hansel & Gretal, Kookai, Stella McCartney, Alex Monroe and Tommy Bahama and Seed Heritage.
If you’re feeling adventurous, I would definitely recommend driving the 20 minutes to Eumundi Markets (for further details see my post on the Sunshine Coast Hinterland) on a Saturday or Wednesday morning, probably my favourite market of all time.
Lunch: Sails
My afternoon at Sails was possibly one of the most epic meals I have ever encountered. It was a fleeting moment of complete impulsivity which, I rarely succumb to.
Have you ever been to a restaurant and obnoxiously declared,
“Let’s order EVERYTHING!” ?
Well it wasn’t quite as ludicrous as that. However it was the first time in a long while that I had such fun with the staff and company that suddenly a second dish of the sandcrab lasagne (heaven on the lips!!) was being ordered.
The afternoon started with espresso martinis overlooking the sand and sea and some fun banter with the wait staff and finished with Aperol spritz’s and some highly satisfied patrons. Don’t hurry too quickly to order a cocktail however: Sails wine cellar is 3-storeys high! Personal recommendation: the 2016 Rocca di Castagnoli Chianti!
The modern Australian menu has a sublime seafood focus and can I personally recommend to you, the:
- Fresh shucked oysters, shallot vinegar, caraway grissini
- Three cheese arancini, Noosa Reds tomato ketchup
- Moreton Bay Bug, Gladstone Qld
- Sashimi plate: Hiramasa kingfish, Petuna ocean trout, Mooloolaba tuna
- Miso glazed Hervey Bay scallops, BBQ spring onion, radishes, bonito, puffed rice
- Sandcrab lasagne, raw tomato sauce, herb salad, pecorino
Noosa Beach/ Watersports/ Hire a jetski
Noosa Main Beach is the closest to Hastings Street (literally behind it) and is patrolled 365 days per year by lifesavers, with gentle waves virtually never exceeding one metre and a flat sandy bottom. This makes it the perfect and safest place to take a family and also the prime spot to learn to how to surf! It’s protected by the headland and a great option for those who aren’t the strongest swimmers.
However you can also access other coves and beaches along the Noosa Heads National Park walking trail (covered below). For a secluded afternoon, head over to Tea Tree Bay, named after the trees that grow there. The rock pools and shady trees are a wonderful escape from the bustle of the main street. Alternatively the rugged and less busy Sunshine Beach has 15km of stunning coastline to enjoy or Castaways Beach is popular with surfers, although unpatrolled so not recommended for swimming.
For another exhilirating option, head to the river inlets and hire a jetski! I was lucky enough to meet a friend there who was kind enough to take me out on his! The aim was to scoot out into the Coral Sea and go whale and dolphin watching. Unfortunately we did not see any ocean animals but in a fun twist of events, I ended up holding onto my hat as we jumped over the waves, revved the engine and blasted the accelerator, and did some tricks and turns in the deep water! Truly a blast and highly recommend!!
For a less adrenaline packed option, there are multiple places to hire kayaks, snorkels and stand up paddle boards! Noosa River has a charm of its own.
Dinner: Wasabi / Esmay
Wasabi has been a stalwart of the Noosa Heads culinary scene, with guests served Japanese degustation menus Omakase style: where the chef selects dishes that highlight the changing seasons in the Noosa region. At the time of visiting in 2020, the space was taken over by a 3 month pop up restaurant called Esmay, headlined by awarded chef Alanna Sapwell. The menu was oozing in Queensland produce with a nostalgic twist. Seasonal produce is sourced from Wasabi’s own Honeysuckle Hill Farm, just 30 minutes away, as well as from other regional producers.
We had a rollicking great time while tucking into the set menu (which changes seasonally):
- Cucumber, Gribiche, White Anchovy
- BBQ Turnip, Green Almond, Lardo
- Sweetbread Donut, Seri
- Salt Bush & Vinegar Pig’s Ears
- Ray’s Bream, Radish, Muntries, Sour Onion
- Swordfish, Red Peppers, Fish Floss
Sunday
Noosa Markets
The hustle and bustle of Noosa on a Sunday morning is no more evident than at the markets! With a variety to choose from, you’ll find lively atmospheres with music and the chit chat of people leisurely ambling from one stall to the next! Check out the options at Noosa Marina Market, Noosaville Farmers Market, Slow Women Flea Market and Noosa Junction Twilight Market.
Noosa Heads Coastal Walk
This stunning track sets out from the day use area at the Noosa Heads National Park at the top of Hastings Street and continues around the headland, with various tracks bringing you back in a loop through the headland forest or you can follow the traditional track, which takes you to Sunshine Beach and then traverses back along the same path. The distance to Sunshine Beach is 5.4km and you’ll need to double this if coming back the same way! I’d allow 3-4 hours for a hike in this park.
You’ll pass sweeping ocean vistas, rocky bays, enclosed beaches, unusual Australian natives and fauna and spot incredible marine life, such as humpback whales during the migration season (June – November), turtles and dolphins. Also keep an eye in the trees where you might find some cute koalas or echidnas on the ground!
Be careful if you pass one of these suckers: the blue bottle jellyfish or Portugese man o’ war. This beautiful bright blue marine hydrozoan has one of the most painful stings you’ll ever encounter. Consider yourself warned: touch at your own peril!
Setting out, you’ll first pass around Laguna Bay and find yourself walking along an intriguingly designed walkway. It’s this section where you’ll oft see koalas snoozing or munching on eucalyptus leaves. The next major sight is Boiling Pot, where the thunderous sound of waves echo as they crash ferociously on the jagged rocks.
Pass through Tea Tree Bay where you’ll find some pleasant shade amongst the strange paperbark trees.
Next is Dolphin Point! Depending on the time of year, you may spot some of these playful animals.
After traversing around some more beautiful scenery such as Winch Cove, Noosa Fairy Pools and Picnic Cove, you’ll encounter the wind and rugged bluff that is Hells Gates, where the waves crash into the cliff edge in grand style.
Tracking around from Hells Gates is Alexandria Bay. Yes, the rumours are true. This is a nudist beach! However don’t be bashful if you are feeling more conservative and wish to wear clothes. There are many surfers and swimmers here who do so!
The last section involves a climb up a steep hill with a striking panorama over Sunshine Beach, followed by a descent down a long staircase of stone steps. Sunshine Beach, as mentioned, is 15km long and is a great place to finish with a dip in the ocean. From here you can walk to the SLSC and catch a bus back to Hastings Street or take a ‘short cut’ through the headland forest. Make sure you have a good GPS if you choose this latter approach!
Don’t miss this incredible nature walk. In my opinion, it is one of the best in Australia.
Lunch: Spirit House
This restaurant come cooking school is a hidden gem in the Sunshine Coast Hinterland. Recommended by a friend, there’s absolutely no way you can walk out of this restaurant which circles a lake, in an anxious state. From the impressive oriental entry to the towering bamboo stems that guide you down the path by the tropical gardens, you’ll come across many treasures along the way that imbibe calm and peace before even commencing the culinary sensation that is to follow. With the sound of water bubbling gently before you and the softly spoken but informative wait staff, the afternoon is set to be tranquil.
Most people keep to a quiet atmosphere so anyone overly loud or raucous is immediately obvious. There was a long table across the lagoon from me who seemed to be enjoying themselves a little too much on occasion and even they recognised that it was out of keeping with the ambience and self-enforced some hush!
Spirit House offers a degustation menu or the option to pick and choose 3 or 4 courses at set prices. Ordinarily I would go with the set menu however I was in a particularly pescatorian mood having arrived in the heart of the seafood blessed Sunshine Coast.
Thus my selections included:
- Trio of Miangs – Beef, Moreton Bay Bug, Vegetarian
- Kingfish Gohu with rainbow of fire, coconut, lime & plantain crisps
- Hervey Bay Scallops, nam phrik phao, crispy rice, tumeric & lime kosho
- Mooloolaba Leader Prawns with tom yum spices, prawn butter & fresh coconut
The food was intricately plated and unique. For example, the fillings of the traditional miangs, which are placed upon a green leaf designed as a wrap, all of it entirely edible. Arguably the most visually impressive dish of the day was the leader prawns, the largest variety of prawn, served butterflied and spanning the width of the entire plate.
Drink at Hong Sa Bar
After your time either dwelling in the calm outdoor setting of the Spirit House Restaurant or more actively participating in the cooking school, be sure to step away into the Hong Sa Bar, an even quieter, more secluded section of the Spirit House grounds.
Mt Tinbeerwah
This is not an onerous climb by any stretch of the imagination. In fact you can park more than half way up the hill and then climb the last section in 10-15 minutes. The views at the top are stunning. For some reason it was the most overcast of my time in Noosa Heads whilst arriving at the top, yet felt strangely beautifully eery and captivating being up there in that moment. I also happened across a complete rainbow overlooking the hinterland which was a wonderful and promising sight.
Dinner: Season
This casual laidback restaurant offers great views across the beach, with entry from the Hastings Street side. Make sure to get there early to catch a glimpse of the setting sun. Food is classic modern Aussie: beer battered fish and chips, char grilled eye fillet, pan fried snapper, lamb pizza and prawn tacos to name a few. Teamed with a great cocktail menu, it’s an easy way to wind down at the end of a day. Don’t forget to check out their insanely beautiful and luminescent pool at night….
