Istanbul in 2 days: there are better ways!

Overview

Istanbul, previously Byzantium or Constantinople, conjures up imagery of a city of lights, mosques with intricate turrets, hazy dusk skies, ancient buildings, famous churches, a waterway dividing two continents filled with massive tankers, kinetic market places, aromas of flame grilled food, blazing sunsets and a history near unsurpassed.

I had two days here. More correctly, two half days. I’ve previously discussed my above average energy levels and it was time to put this to the test. What exactly of the culture, history, food and uniqueness of Istanbul was going to be possible?

Turns out – a lot! However, I would definitely allow 5-6 days for a more comfortably paced itinerary whereby more of the city is able to be absorbed. If anything, I deeply wish I could have sampled more of the food and spent more time people watching whilst ambling around the old town.

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Essentials

Street food
Hagia Sophia
Blue Mosque
Bosphorus Cruise
Rooftop pre-dinner drink overlooking Old Sultanahmet
Dinner in the Fatih district
Cistern Basilica (The Sunken Palace)
Hippodrome
Grand Bazaar

Firstly, a few tips.

First tip: Cut queues if you’re tight on time

In Istanbul, there are self-employed ‘professional guides’ loitering around the entrances to most tourist sites. They will usually approach you or you’ll see them approaching others. You can pay them a set additional price for entry (there is not much bargaining room to be had) to skip the queue and enjoy a personalized tour with historical background information and interesting facts. Have a look at the line and make a judgement call if you want to pay the extra. At the Hagia Sophia, it’s a no-brainer.  

Second tip: Pearls for the single female traveler

It’s an unfortunate fact that it’s just easier to travel with a man in this region of the world. I’m fairly independent in many ways and have done a reasonable amount of travel so this is not a fun thing for me to touch upon. It’s not necessarily that it’s unsafe, it’s just that you will be harassed a lot more if you walk around alone as a single female. I noticed it immediately when I stepped away on my own to either purchase items or find my way to a bathroom or virtually any other activity. I heard people muttering under their breath or making overt comments to me 5 times in the 30 metres and back that I walked to place my roasted corn wrapper in the waste bin (ps. try the corn and also the roasted chestnuts – delicious). If you’re in this boat, just be cautious and stick to well populated areas and you’ll be absolutely fine. It’s certainly feasible to travel here as a single female, you just (as usual) need some strong travel savvy and to avoid the desire to slap certain people.

Third tip: Don’t make locals promises

Ok so it turns out that it’s not only females that can be harassed. Before entering the Cistern Basilica (below), I was approached by an extremely nice local man who was attempting to make conversation with myself. He next turned his attention to my male friend, inviting us to his carpet store. We mentioned our tight schedule but he was on a mission to have us view his prized woven threads. In an attempt to be polite but get him to move along, my friend said we’d visit after the Cistern Basilica. Well, there he was, waiting for us at the exit to take us to his carpet shop. When it became apparent that this was not part of our strict itinerary, he heavily laid on the blame with quite distinct attacks on our moral values.  

Fourth tip: Don’t stop eating

That’s all.

Fifth tip: Accommodation

Head along to Booking.com and find a mid-range multi level hotel in either Sultanahmet, Taksim Square or Karaköy, depending on your time/attraction preferences. This booking site has never let me down, and the website showcases upcoming trips in a sequential/date based outlook. It provides competitive rates, usually cheaper than the individual hotel websites. Sultanahmet is the old part of town and incredibly central to most tourist attractions, with incredible food options and a plethora of midrange hotels with room/rooftop bar views across to Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque (trust me, this is a desirable feature). If you’ve got limited time in Istanbul, this is the place to be. If you’ve been before, or are looking for a hipster night out, perhaps seek further afield in Taksim Square or Karaköy. If you’re feeling like a bigger splurge, go for a 5 star hotel along the Bosphorus. On our bosphorus cruise, we sailed past the Four Seasons: fairly certain I know where I’m headed next time. 

I knew time was limited, so I spent a significant amount of time researching hotels before the trip, possibly even to the extent of opening Google Earth so that I could track the distance of each from the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, and choose one with a viewpoint of both. I admit there are few geeks on this planet like this, however may I suggest the Blue House Hotel for a simple but comfortable and clean room, an incredible rooftop bar with dazzling night views of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, a helpful reception who booked us immediately onto a Bosphorus cruise and were able to provide suggestions for food and nightlife.

Next is what I managed to fit into two precious days.

Day 1

After arriving in Istanbul in the early afternoon, time was of the essence, so I knew it was important to move quickly! We booked an evening Bosphorus cruise through hotel reception, dumped our luggage, enjoyed a quick Turkish pastry in the lobby and then headed out the door with the Hagia Sophia in our sights.

Turns out, the aromas of the nearby Turkish restaurants were a real impedance to our plan. We had to stop. I don’t think you could have seen happier faces than those plastered upon ours after ordering the most mouth watering chicken and lamb kebab plates from the Mesale Café. We had literally made it around the corner from our hotel before succumbing.

Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia is one of my favourite buildings. For its history, for its unique beauty, for its sad conflicting interior. One of my senior mentors at work had told me one afternoon before my trip, “Whatever you do, take a moment from the hustle and bustle within the Hagia Sophia, find yourself a quiet corner, and just take it in”. I did this. And I urge anyone who visits to do the same. It’s truly transcending.

Back to reality, the Hagia Sophia is so busy it’s deafening. You can barely move outside and on the inside, there are people taking selfies, ramming each other for their preferred picture, lined up on every possible vantage point in and amongst all of the group tours. It’s hectic and messy and not your typically spiritual experience. In fact the building is now a museum. The picture below depicts the kinetic energy of the place in human form, whilst I’m standing in the largest door (7 metres high) within the Hagia Sophia, believed to be made of oak from Noah’s Ark, with a bronze frame.

Originally a Christian church, it was taken over by muslims to become a mosque and then when Mustafa Atatürk came into power, the revolutionary first president of the Republic of Turkey, the religious tussle was ‘solved’ by turning it into a museum. It’s actually quite a sad story. Our private tour guide (yes – we jumped the queue!) showed us some interesting facets, including various Christian paintings on the roof and walls that had been painted over during its time as a mosque, and recovered during recent years to display its true history.

The Blue Mosque is in the same vicinity and can easily be viewed in succession however it was closed for prayer time at the time we passed by.

Bosphorus cruise

There are a reasonable number of Bosphorus cruises in the armament, however the two we were presented with included:

1. The Party Cruise, departing earliest 9.30pm
2. The Sunset Cruise, departing 6pm

We opted for the sunset cruise for its photography appeal. I must say though, there’s a reason it’s a fraction of the cost. The boat itself is much smaller and there are limited drinks (non-alcoholic) and snacks on board. By the same token, the party cruise would have had better entertainment but at the expense of the sun having gone down, so the Bosphorus itself would have looked completely different. If another evening was on offer, I think the night cruise would be a definite win. I’m glad to have seen it at dusk however. Both European and Asian continents were showcased, and I was mesmerized by the size and number of tankers that passed through this waterway. As mentioned above, another jaw-dropping moment was passing the Four Seasons Bosphorus: not in a useful locale but I am adding this to the bucket list for its sheer grandeur.

Evening in Sultanahmet

Sultanhamet is an epicentre of multi-storey hotels and restaurants in this area portrayed as the ‘old town’. We enjoyed a couple of Efes beers at the top of the hotel we stayed at and I was treated to a few photography lessons by my friend who is an absolute gun. I left with a couple of ripper shots which I’ve shown in my ‘accommodation tips’. The rooftop bar had a very homely vibe to it; the owners were seated next to us and threw in a plate of snacks, probably amused to see us chatting whilst intermittently taking pictures awkwardly poised on various cement plant hedges to raise ourselves above the balcony fencing.

From here we had freshened up for dinner and wandered out into the streets to be allured by whomever could sell themselves to us. Granted, I had thought this would be by looks alone but Dubb Ethnic Restaurant had another initiative: the spruiker. We were assured 100% that Nicole Kidman had visited the night before (with that other Australian man) to enjoy the authentic Turkish, Ottoman and World cuisine on offer. We had already circled this street twice so decided to take a seat at one of their cute outdoor settings.

One other thing to mention about Istanbul: cats. Cats are everywhere. They will find you and know how to use their charm to extract food from you. It soon became apparent why there were water squirter bottles on each outdoor table and the owners certainly weren’t afraid to use them! To be honest, I’m really not sure how we managed to conquer so much food but we demolished the mixed kebab plate, a dish of tirit and a bottle of Turkish Angora wine. This might sound small but includes: charcoal grilled Adana kebab, shish kebab, meat balls, chicken kebab, lamb chops, wheat rice, sumac and onion garnish, grilled tomatoes and peppers and the thousand of years old recipe from Konya of grilled lamb skewers on baked breads soaked in bone sauce with onion and yoghurt poured on top, and dry paprika and cooked tomatoes added along with a sprinkling of tirit spices and butter sauce.

I’m out of breath. But no, there was katmer to come: pistachio flat bread with vanilla icecream. *Tourist passes out*

Day 2

Cistern Basilica (The Sunken Palace)
Hippodrome
Grand Bazaar
Turkish tea in Fatih district
Dinner in Sultanahmet – Gusta Pub, Sultan Hotel
Galata at night – Nest Bar, Social Bar
Drinks in Sultanhamet – Siva Café, Gusta Pub

After waking at our hotel and enjoying a hearty Turkish breakfast of eggs, cheese, salads, croissants and other small baked delights including freshly baked chocolate muffins on our outdoor rooftop location at Sebnem Hotel, we high tailed to the other ‘must sees’ before our early afternoon curfew came to head back to the airport.

First on the list was the Cistern Basilica. Again, on busy days, this is a prime location whereby you can enlist the help of a trusty guide to show you past the line and into the cavern at a higher price. At an off-peak time however, the line is quick and the private tour guide option is not necessary. The guides do know this and typically only loiter during peak times of the day. The Basilica Cistern can easily be seen whilst visiting The Hagia Sofia, only 150m southwest.

The Basilica Cistern (“The Sunken Palace”)

After descending the 52 steps to the underground chamber featured in the iconic James Bond movie From Russia With Love, our eyes immediately began adjusting to the dimly lit cavern that is visible by the addition of tiny lights. The Basilica Cistern is the largest of 60 ancient cisterns built under the city of Istanbul in the year 532 during the reign of the Byzantine emperor Justinian in order to avoid vulnerability in the event of a siege resulting in destruction of the Aquaduct of Valente. In the current day, it is often used for spectacular music concerts with impeccable acoustics.

The cistern is 138 x 65 metres (9800 m 2 ) and is capable of holding 80,000 cubic metres of water. The ceiling of this cistern is held up by 336 magnificent marble and granite columns, all 9 metres high and 5 metres from the next. The intricate carvings and engravings are in a variety of styles: Corinthian, Ionic, Doric. It is thought that most of the columns are recycled from the ruins of old buildings, the remnants of which were also used in the construction of the Hagia Sofia. All one needs to do is spend a little time looking around to notice some truly speechless designs! Of notable mention were these:

1. Medusa column bases

These are truly spectacular and located down a few steps in the northwest corner of the cistern – definitely don’t miss! One head is placed upside down and the other is sideways. I had no idea these were here and almost completely walked by them! According to mythology, Medusa had a deadly gaze and turned to stone anyone who looked her in the eyes. Legend has it that builders purposefully placed the stone heads as such to counter this, however modern architects will argue that they offer more stability and support in this direction.

2. The Hen’s Eye column (The weeping column)

This column is covered in algae and depicts swirling eye-like designs, with legend having it that if you place your thumb in the hole and rotate to the right whilst praying for healing or a miracle and your thumb comes out damp, then your prayer has been heard. Ancient text suggests that the tears on the column represent a tribute to the hundreds of slaves who died during the construction of the Basilica Cistern. Of note there is a similar column in the Hagia Sofia which was taken from the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus.

Hippodrome (Sultan Ahmet Square)

This now big open public square and popular meeting place was once the sporting and social hub of Constantinople, home to many famous chariot and horse races.

It is estimated that the Hippodrome (‘horse path’) of Constantinople was 450m x 130m, with stands capable of holding 100,000 spectators. The Hippodrome was lavishly decorated with many structures, the remnants of which are still present today. During the Byzantine era, there were initially 4 teams (2 chariots each) that were backed by different political parties, however they eventually merged into two teams: the Greens and the Blues. The nature of these political and religious financial support at times resulted in riots and civil wars within the city, most notably the Nika revolt of 532 in which 30,000 people were killed and the second Hagia Sofia was destroyed, prior to the third (current) building being rebuilt by Justinian. During the Fourth Crusade and Sack of Constantinople, the Hippodrome fell to near ruins and was ransacked by the Venetians who took the four horses gilded in copper atop the Hippodrome Boxes and which now reside on the San Marco Cathedral in Venice. It’s worth spending some time exploring the beautiful open landscape, a luxury we didn’t have.

However we did manage to see the main structures and monuments below, extremely interesting and ornate:

1. Obelisk of Thutmose III – from the Temple of Karnak in Luxor, Egypt
2. The Walled Obelisk
3. Serpent column – from the Temple of Apollo in Delphi
4. Kaiser Wilhelm’s (‘German’) Fountain
5. Statues of Porphyrios – no longer in the Hippodrome but can be seen in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum

But next, on to the Grand Bazaar!

Grand Bazaar

I can’t say how much I love traveling with someone else now. The thrill I used to have of negotiating the world when I was younger has been replaced by the comfort and complacency of relying on another to get you somewhere safely and with shared mental energy or processing. I think it was still imperative and necessary for me to do the former trips alone, however I have truly loved sharing the experience. All this to say, yes, it was largely my friend who directed me to the next sentinel location – The Grand Bazaar!

From memory it was probably a 15-20 minute walk from the Hippodrome. I will always advocate for walking short distances (or indeed boarding a train for long distances!) as it allows the privilege of experiencing otherwise unseen day to day life of the locals and culture beyond parallel. This particular walk took us past decadent sweets and pastry stores, markets, cobblestone streets and revealed a unique view of the Blue Mosque.

The Grand Bazaar is named as such for a reason. Bright. Bold. Flashy. Mesmerising. Kinetic. Abuzz. Tangential. Dynamic. It’s never dull and every corner presents a new opportunity. It is the New York streets on steroids and half a metre from your face. It is captivating, transcending and completely attention seeking. For someone who is bored easily and has the attention span of a fruit fly, this place had me arching my neck to take in the wonders and circling 360 degrees on repeat taking photographs of the beautiful colours, flags, archway beams, narrow aisles, people and products. Don’t miss it and don’t let the drab understated entrance sign down a small alleyway fool you. (We accidentally found the back entrance). I’ve been to my fair share of Middle Eastern markets in Oman, Jordan, Israel, Dubai and Bahrain: this one is special.

A night out in Istanbul

When you are traveling with someone who can make any situation fun or turn the ordinary into well, at the very least amusing, it has become part of my armament of research prior to experiencing a city to determine the great night spots. I’m not going to attempt to do that here as night life in Istanbul is spread out and thus not concentrated in one regions and many have tried to review this in one article and failed. Its limits know no end! From a street full of beer houses to upscale rooftop bars to grungy backpackers to huge pulsing neon nightclubs, my best advice would be to have a look in the area you are staying and then Uber somewhere close. Taksim, Karaköy, the Asian side, you name it – you will find something!

Tip for new players: Karaköy is listed as a nightspot hub however, we must have we caught it on a bad day. We ventured over the gorgeous Galata Bridge which is a sight to behold at night, lit up in an array of colours and with its sprawling market place and shops beneath the road level, across to the precinct of Karaköy. We had some very sedate Aperol spritzes at Social Bar whilst the well renowned Nest Bar was closed. 

Not to be defeated, we hopped in an Uber back over to the Old Town of Sultanahmet where our hotel was located… only to find this was absolutely where the party was to be found….

Noone will tell you that Sultanahmet is the place for nightlife, yet so many people stay in this area of cultural icons especially if on limited time in Istanbul and I’m here to attest that yes, you can have an amazing, slightly less glamorous, if not marginally unusual, time here! The main strip of bars and restaurants near our hotel in the district of Fatih in Sultanahmet lie along a road called Akbıyık Caddesi. It is right behind the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet. I’m definitely one who prefers the fun and thrill of spontaneity on a night out and this night was undeniably that.

In actual fact we had eaten a dinner of Islim & Döner kebabs at Sultan Pub & Restaurant along this strip only a few hours earlier after walking up and down the street. This meant the local shop and bar owners recognized us and this led to a long line of cordial greetings and requests to come and join their entertainment. We landed in one bar called Gusta Pub which had a scattering of tourists smoking shisha seated at tables outside and some loud music coming from within.

I’m not really sure what happened next but after seating ourselves near the bar, we suddenly realised that the front doors were closing and the inside had become full of only locals. Someone we were speaking to earlier who must have been on the management team came up and told us that the venue had just closed to the public for a private party but we were welcome to stay. The next few hours seem an incredible blur of dance offs, people on tables, more shisha and all to an Arabic dance music fusion. I certainly wasn’t expecting that in Istanbul! Thanks Gusta Pub!

After a few hours of class entertainment and before hitting the sack we headed over the road for a nightcap to a lively bar called Siva café. Again, this looked like a relaxed but inviting venue and in what seemed like only two black Russians later, there were people linking arms in a big circle on the street performing some kind of local dance.

It was one of those nights I’ll never forget!