Coolangatta & Tweed Heads: Gold Coast’s relaxed southern tip

Overview

Coolangatta is the surfer’s dream: high waves, killer breaks, footloose vibes, dry stringy blonde hair aplenty, combie vans, great food, good beer and sunshine.

I don’t surf.

But I love it here.

I’m Australian and I’m so proud of my visually stunning, free, safe, relaxed but dutiful country. This is the first post I commenced writing on the divine beauty of my favourite country on all the earth. Whenever I travel, I feel so blessed to call this country home. We have our downfalls but I am blessed beyond measure to say that “I still call Australia home”.

I lived in both Coolangatta and Tweed Heads (the former and latter are Qld/ NSW sister cities) for 15 months and I have dreamed of sharing the beauty of this place for some time now. I’m writing this in winter and it’s sunny, I’m in a t-shirt, the water is crystal blue and it’s as ‘Australia’ as you’d imagine from the post cards. When I first drove into ‘the Tweed’, I was compelled to pull over on the side of the road on so many occasions to photodocument the stunning skies.

Even though this post can never do it justice, I’ve created my best 3 day weekend in this region. You can eliminate what you like to make it a 2 day weekend but I didn’t know what to keep out so here we go…

But first… where is Coolangatta and why should I go there??

To Australians and an international tourism crowd, the Gold Coast evokes an image of blue seas, perfect weather all year round, surf competitions, the ‘glamorous’ life, bikini living, gym junkies at the beach with their dogs, hipster cafes, high rise buildings and lively bars and clubs. It’s also the place where thousands of school-leavers congregate at the end of their high schooling to let their hair down over a week of crazy activities. See my post The Best of the Gold Coast Glitterstrip for some exciting ideas in this region.

Coolangatta is far from that (on the most part). Located at the very southern tip of the Gold Coast, it is seen as the quiet brother of the Broadbeach/ Surfers Paradise counterpart. It reminds me more of Byron Bay: relaxed, barefoot, combie van aplenty, juice bars, sushi and poke bowls abounding, young mums pushing their strollers along the promenade, the dads with their dogs and simple (albeit slightly hipster) living. People who live here do so for a reason. It’s God’s country: the best beaches with access to a great nearby social life whilst retaining a degree of normalcy at the end of the working day where one can go and relax on the quiet sand and hear the waves lapping on the shore.

If you’re after that relaxed, enjoyable beach holiday with access to great coffee and food, then this is your destination of choice.

Essentials

Friday:
Little Mali for coffee + breakfast
Currumbin Wildlife Park
Currumbin Night Markets

Saturday:
Greenmount Beach
Snapper Rocks
Frog Rock
Point Danger
Brunch at Cafe Dbar
Lovers Rock Park
Duranbah Beach
Chris Cunningham Park
Lunch at Bread Social
Razorback Outlook
Tweed River Walk
Baked at Ancora & The Ivory
Kirra Beach
Sunset at Eagle Hill
Dinner at Bin 72
Night out / cocktails

Sunday:
Breakfast at Bellakai
Greenmount Beach/ Rainbow Bay
Lunch at Rainbow Bay Hotel
Greenmount Beach
Live music & drinks at Coolangatta Hotel
Francie’s Pizza & sunset at Greenmount Beach
Dessert at Gelato Messina

Suggested Accommodation

Additional Day / Overnight Trips:
Tamborine Mountain
Springbrook National Park
Husk Distillery / Murwillumbah Town Centre
Kingscliff
Newrybar
Byron Bay

Friday

Little Mali

You’ve awoken on the Gold Coast and can’t believe your luck! But the primal instincts still say: where’s my coffee?! Well you’re in luck, you’re near the best coffee shop in the district: Little Mali. It’s busy but that’s for a reason. They’re local, loud and lush. From most places in Coolangatta (or ‘Coolie’) it’s a walkable distance. They specialise in smoothies, breakfast bowls, freshly made salads and home made pastries and energy bars. You can dine in or eat on the run!

Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary

This wildlife park is a complete gem. Often overshadowed by Steve Irwin’s Australia Zoo north of Brisbane, it is definitely worth a visit and in my opinion is one of the most logically designed and easy to navigate zoos I’ve been to.

The website allows you to plan your day according to what you would like to see. Allow the full day. It’s not a huge park but there are so many great features and enclosures and this will allow you to maximise your time.

My first stop: walking a dingo!! This required an additional ticket at an extra price but was such a neat activity to be supporting Australian wildlife. It’s incredibly easy to think you are merely taking a sprightly active dog for a walk but the keepers continually riterated to me that dingos are wild animals with primal instincts and if those instincts prevailed, then I must follow along with them. It’s not the same as having a dog on a leash and controlling its exciteable tendencies by using the leash. I was told that if a bush turkey suddenly jumped in our path and the dingo leapt after it, that I was not to pull sharply on the leash but to only gently attempt to curtail its enthusiasm. I was a little nervous about this but fortunately the bush turkeys were well behaved, as were the dingos. Two professional dingo keepers walked me around a circuit with two of the three dingo brothers: Seff and Cailean. The third brother Marrick had established himself as the head of the pack and had to be kept separate.

There are various live interactive shows which are so much fun:

• The Lost Valley
• Pelican & Eel Feeding
• WildSkies
• Cotton Top Tamarin Feeding
• Croc Feeding
• Kangaroo Enclosure

There is also an incredible on site Animal Hospital which offer tours to the public, as well as a famous tree top challenge allows adventure seekers to navigate their way through a series of exciting canopy bridges and climbs, both at an additional fee.

The Sanctuary has multiple points along its path to find a quick snack or a more substantial bite to eat.

Currumbin Night Markets

Every Friday night, the Currimbin Night markets run from 4 – 9pm, offering a myriad of dinner options. Think Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese, Brazilian, Turkish, Venezuelan, South African, Chilean, Asian greens and Australian Seafood: it’s all there! Whilst dedicated to local and international food and crafts, the market is also fully licenced and sells local Burleigh Brewery’s boutique beers as well as Sirromet wines. Local musicians showcase their talents and families will find this a wonderful way to finish their day at the Sanctuary. Proceeds go towards future operations at Currumbin.

Saturday

Morning walk

This morning is another incredibly sun-filled and wave-ridden itinerary. You’ll want to come back to this place I can assure you.

If you’re a multiple-coffee-per-morning person (all of my hands are raised), then you can easily swing by Little Mali again for your first. No surprises how I spent every morning while living here!

Greenmount Beach & Rainbow Bay

However if you’re keen to get the show on the road, then first port of call is to traverse the gorgeous palm-tree lined footpath along Greenmount Beach along to Rainbow Bay. You’ll walk past the Rainbow Bay Surf Life Saving Club (SLSC) with its iconic “From Where You’d Rather Be” roof sign. Walk past this another few hundred metres and you’ll find yourself at Snapper Rocks. (Don’t worry – there is more on Greenmount and Rainbow Bay below!).

Snapper Rocks

It’s worth getting the video/camera out now. Stay for at least 20 minutes on the small concrete ledge that separates the path from the rocks and sea. If the surfers and bodyboarders are feeling brave, you’ll be able to watch them jump from the rocks into the oncoming swell. It is the start of a famous surf break known as the ‘Superbank’ and home to multiple annual international surf competitions. Even without the surfers, you’ll see the gigantic waves reach incredible heights as they lurch onto the granite rocks beneath them. The little inlet captures some great spray and foam and makes for a wonderful ‘been there’ photograph.

Frog Rock

From here, continue around to ‘Frog Rock’, a small bay which is overlooked by a rock painted green with a face, in the shape of a rock.

Point Danger

Ascend the hill behind this and you’ll suddenly come across one of the most incredible sweeping views across the entire Gold Coast region. This park is home to many tables and park benches where you can enjoy a picnic overlooking the Tasman Sea. Between May to November you will also have a very high chance of spotting the magnificent Humpback Whales during their migration season through the warm waters. This is a well renowned place to see the whales, as well as in Byron Bay in NSW.

The Point Danger monument (Captain Cook Memorial) is an incredible sight up on the hill and signifies the junction between two Australian states. It is an active lighthouse on the headland connecting Coolangatta in Queensland with its sister city of Tweed Heads in New South Wales.

Breakfast/Brunch: Cafe Dbar

Across the road from the Point Danger memorial is the cute weatherboard Cafe Dbar where options include eating at the stand up bar outside, seated outdoor tables or upstairs overlooking the water where glass windows slide open to allow in the refreshing ocean breeze. With a menu devoted to ‘paddock to plate’ they offer a selection of items made from fresh ingredients sourced locally from the Gold Coast Hinterland down to the Northern Rivers of New South Wales and Byron Shire. They offer some fabulous juices, shakes, social brews and iced drinks: the perfect place to enjoy a bite to eat and rehydrate.

Next door to the Cafe is a magnificent art and jewellery shop which is perfect for a self-treat or present for a special someone.

For a more relaxed and extremely well-priced ‘on-the-go’ breakfast, stop in at Fresh & Fried on Rainbow, a popular local haunt with an all day breakfast to take away, featuring items such as raisin/cinnamon toast, bacon & egg breaky rolls, scrambled breakfast, English-style breakfasts, as well as burgers, fried fish, potato scallops, chicko rolls and hot chips… all the classic Australian takeaway options.

Lovers Rock Park & Duranbah Beach

Cross back over the road from Cafe Dbar, past the Captain Cook Memorial and down the stepped concrete path that leads to the beach. You’ll pop out at Duranbah Beach, one of the most popular surfing beaches in the country. It’s fun to watch the young kick it with the seniors.

To the left is Lovers Rock Park, signified by a large black rock (amongst many other rocks!) which juts out off of the ground and is perfect for Lovers to sit beneath and overlook the water. If you’re walking alone, then bypass the rock and onwards to the edge where you’ll find some impressive spray and crashing waves which will have you feel like you’re on the edge of the earth ….

Chris Cunningham Park & Tweed River Outlet

From here it’s time to head back up the same concrete path near Captain Cook Memorial but instead head down Boundary Street, past the NSW/Queensland border, Twin Towns Public Park, Jack Evans Boat Harbour and onwards to Chris Cunningham Park. This is where the vibe changes from hipster Coolangatta to relaxed retiree Tweed Heads.

At the bay and in Chris Cunningham Park is the ANZAC memorial fountain where the annual dawn service is held on 25 April, remembering those who lost their lives in WWII is held. Australians around the country congregate at various locations to commemorate the freedom afforded to them by these courageous souls.

Take a seat on one of the many benches surrounding the water, watch happy little kids play in the water, dogs fetch sticks and run around in bliss and older members of society in their swimming caps take a refreshing morning dip in the still water of the wide bay. Stand up paddle boards are also available for rent.

Lunch: The Bread Social

It’s likely that it’s nearing midday or early afternoon by this point, so it’s definitely worthwhile stopping in to Tweed Heads most popular artisan bakery: The Bread Social. Stop for a quick bite to eat and fantastic coffee or take it away for some ‘grub on the run’. My suggestion is to pack it for the road so that you can have a picnic at the next stop on this itinerary!

“The View”: Tom Beatson Outlook Razorback

It took a good 6 months of living in this region before a kind colleague pointed out this little gem. It’s not on the general tourist map and most people living in town won’t even know it exists. It can be accessed by walking almost to the end of Bay Street, turning left on to Thomson Street, continuing along Charles Street and then turning right on to Razorback Road. At the top of Razorback, one can view the extraordinary sparkling ocean and high rises of the Gold Coast sweeping around to the Tweed River inlet and associated river tributaries. It’s quite a sight, quiet and perfect for your picnic lunch (and camera).

Tweed River Walk

This was my daily route to work for many months. You’d be forgiven for wondering why I left! However, after descending the Outlook at Razorback, it’s time to head back down Razorback Road, left on to Charles Street and then first right on to Florence Street. Continue the entire way which will take you past Tweed Heads Hospital. At the end of this the mighty Tweed River will stretch out before you.

This is equally a serene and beautiful place to enjoy a picnic lunch (or to engage in an afternoon of fishing from the river bank as my Dad so loves to do: his record was 42 fish in 6 days if you’re an avid fisherman and after a measure of activity). Many days I would buy takeaway Sushi from Tweed Mall, only a street away, and sit on the riverbank. You’ll be sure to see boats, jetskis, an array of fish if you look close enough and if you’re lucky, you will see dolphins playing in the tides.

Baked at Ancora & The Ivory

If you’ve got some more oomph to keep walking, Baked at Ancora has a delightful selection of pastry goods and The Ivory is a large outdoor-decked pub with festoon lighting in the evening that is perfect for a brew (or two) with mates in Tweed Heads.

Kirra Beach & Eagle Hill

After a busy day of walking, it’s time to relax. There are so many choices but Kirra is one we haven’t crossed off of the list yet and makes way for a leisurely ascent to Eagle Hill for sunset over the entire southern Gold Coast. At the top lives an impressive steel eagle monument, “The Rusty Chook” per locals, and it hangs out over the craggy cliff. Initially commemorating the Coolangatta centenary in 1984, its gradual wear and tear and general safety advice has raised the question of whether it might need to be soon replaced.

Dinner at Bin 72

After stretching out under the golden sun for a few hours (complete with hat and suncream of course), it’s time to head back to your hotel, freshen up and then bounce back to The Strand, a beachfront mall home to boutique stores, restaurants, a cinema and specialty surfwear stores. Here you’ll find the romantic and intimate Bin 72, a wine bar with soft mood lighting that offers small plates to share, as well as grilled and slow cooked options such as my two favourites: the braised beef cheeks with wild mushroom gnocchi and truffle cream sauce or the pan seared barramundi, escabeche with 30 black mussels and kipfler potatoes. Be sure to start proceedings with a cocktail.

Night out

As mentioned earlier, Coolie is not the biggest hub for night life but that does not mean it is devoid of a great night out! If you’re staying locally, there are some great options.

Sunday

Breakfast at Bellakai

This beautiful little promenade venue is a stalwart of Coolie life. With beachfront views, minimalistic interiors and a modern Australian menu, you’ll feel right at home.

R&R at Rainbow Bay Beach

It’s time to experience Coolangatta at it’s finest: the a la naturale beaches. Rainbow Bay is a real gem: sheltered, surf-life-saver patrolled and family friendly, you’ll find a divine spot on the sand to spend your morning.

Lunch at Rainbow Bay SLSC

The iconic Australian beach advert for Corona beer launched the phrase ‘from where you’d rather be‘. It’s written as a mantra over this surf life saving club’s roof. The Rainbow Bay SLSC is the perfect place to sit on the undercover verandah, overlook the surfers on the azure blue water, down a pint of Great Northern and order some sustenance to keep you going for an afternoon of more beaching.

Greenmount Beach

The afternoon calls for a new vantage point however, and on a bright day (most days) Greenmount will show you a clear view of the Gold Coast highrise buildlings in Broadbeach across the sparkling water. You’ll want to spend your life here.

Refreshments and live music at Coolangatta Hotel

After a day of sun, it’s time to refresh and rehydrate. The Coolie Hotel is another institution with live music, a great selection of beers on tap, high wooden bench tables and an ambience unparalleled.

Francie’s Pizza at sunset on Greenmount Beach

There’s not much that can compare to a sunset on Greenmount. Dull icecream pinks turn to vibrant orange tones that fade to wispy purple hues and then vanish across the horizon. It’s time to order a takeaway pizza from the famous Francie’s and sit on the sand with a happy heart.

Alternate dinner option

If you’re not a pizza fanatic, the promenade aka Marine Parade, has an abundance of options for you. This strip of hotels, restaurants and bars line the foreshore and sprout offerings from such names as: Bondi Grille’d, OSushi Coolangatta, Baskk at Kirra Point, Xenia Grill (delectable Greek) and Grill’d… yes, it’s the home of grill.

Messina Icecream

No evening is complete without Australia’s icecream phenomenon: Messina. Sample icecream that tastes like the actual flavours it advertises.

Suggested Accommodation

Bella Mare Beachside Apartments

The versatile option for families or couples in arguably the best location. Complete with pool, heated spa, basement gym and externally facing rooms with a balcony, the managers Ash and Sue will make your stay a complete delight.

The Pink Hotel

A huge icon within Coolangatta, the colourful rooms at the Pink Hotel are marketed as being ‘mid-century’ style and completed with Scandinavian bathrooms, king sized Koala mattresses and customised neon artwork in each room.

Komune Resort penthouse

For the high flying individuals, take up residence in one of Komune’s penthouse or top level ocean view rooms (the latter are quite a reasonable price with stellar views).

Stay tuned for future posts on these Additional Day / Overnight Trips:

Tamborine Mountain
Springbrook National Park
Husk Distillery / Murwillumbah Town Centre
Kingscliff
Newrybar
Byron Bay