A Moment in Mostar
Overview
Mostar was a complete surprise packet town which I wish we had longer to explore. With little prior knowledge, we visited as part of an inclusion in a private day trip tour to Sarajevo from Dubrovnik, however it is definitely a city I would plan to go back to. I could spend at least another few days wandering through the markets and exploring all of the hidden and incredibly picturesque restaurants along the town’s river!
Mostar is located between Dubrovnik and Sarajevo and can be conveniently accessed from both. Situated on the famous Neretva River, it is nestled between Mount Hum and Mount Velež. Its current day vibe is quite touristy with an undertone of equal parts proud ancient heritage mixed with recent harrowing heartbreak and division.
A Brief History
Mostar was under Ottoman rule in the 15th Century and was taken over by the Austro-Hungarian empire in the 19th Century. In April 1992, Bosnia & Herzegovina established independence from Yugoslavia however there was ongoing bloodshed during the Bosnian war in the early 1990s. Beyond this time, there has been constant battles between ruling parties with claims of division and corruption.
Mostar is split between Muslim Bosniaks and Catholic Croats, who fought fiercely for control over the city during the war from 1992 – 1995. During this time, Croats moved to the western side and Bosniaks to the east. Since the fighting stopped, the city has had two post offices, two electricity and water suppliers, two phone networks and two public hospitals.
Bosnia’s constitutional court had previously declared Mostar’s election rules discriminatory and ordered them changed, resulting in no local election being held since 2008 because no resolution could be reached. However after more internal struggles, in December 2020 the first local election was held, in an attempt to restore the current day city which has seen infrastructure crumble, trash pile in the street and thousands of citizens leave, to its pre-war cosmopolitan beauty.
Highlights
Stari Most (‘Old Bridge’)
Bridge Diving
Take a stroll along the Neretva River
The ‘Don’t Forget’ Stone
Čaršija (Old Town Market)
Find an intimate restaurant with water views
Other Points of Interest
War Photograph Exhibition
Muslibegović House
Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque
Kriva Cuprija (‘Crooked Bridge’)
Nearby Day Trips
Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Blagaj Monastery, Blagaj, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Vrelo Bune, Blagaj, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Kravice Falls, Kravice, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Pocitelj Castle, Pocitelj, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Split, Croatia
Island hopping, Croatia
Stari Most (‘Old Bridge’)
Sadly as with many historically-significant monuments in this region, the most famous structure in Mostar, the Stari Most, which was built in the 16th century by the Ottomans, was also destroyed in the Bosnian war of the 1990s. The old bridge had stood proudly for 427 years, a beautiful and intelligent design, until it was decimated in 1993 by Croat military forces. Newspapers in Sarajevo at the time reported that it took more than 60 shells before finally collapsing.
Overseen by UNESCO, it was rebuilt in 2004 after over three years of construction, at an estimated cost of US $15.5 million. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Bridge Diving
As with any town, there’s always a buck to be made from opportunists. Here in Mostar, the novelty is bridge diving from Stari Most. Don’t get me wrong, this is a highly dangerous feat given the bridge is approximately 20 metres high, and only trained professionals are allowed to take the grand leap to entertain the crowd.
Take a stroll along the Neretva River
The Neretva River is the largest karst river of the eastern Adriatic basin, flowing through Bosnia & Herzegovina and Croatia until reaching the Adriatic Sea. It has four hydroelectric power plants and with large dams and is an icon of beauty in this region. Mostar sits grandly on the river and provides a splendid backdrop for photography, as well as for a gentle stroll in the afternoon, where you can admire the Ottoman infrastructure that is built high above it.
The ‘Don’t Forget’ Stone
The ‘Don’t Forget’ stone is a small stone located at one end of the Old Bridge and serves as a reminder of the civil war. Since the war has ended, Mostar has regained popularity with tourists and this has injected much needed funds into the city and its restoration. However the stone prompts visitors to remember that many of the locals have suffered extreme travesties in only the recent past, with loss of loved ones and the effects of being under siege. The city continues to acutely feel the effects of a divided population.
Čaršija (Old Town Market)
In the heart of Mostar’s Old Town, you will find this quaint and bustling market, also known as čaršija.
There is a market on either side of the Old Bridge, due to the division between the Bosniak and Croat ethnic groups that inhabit the city. This will go unnoticed by most tourists and there is no visible unrest. The markets will transport you back in time, with ancient Ottoman influences everywhere from the cobbled stone streets to the souvenirs on sale such as rich threaded rugs, painted plates, copper items to the delicious Turkish coffee. For those hot days you’ll find refreshing ice creams for sale from street side vendors!
Find an intimate restaurant with water views
One of the most captivating features of this city is the abundance of little cafes and restaurants that jot out from the cobblestone alleyways. With an air of intimate charm, you’ll find yourself lost in their small courtyards and homely surroundings, whilst savouring a delicious meal and completely transported from your day to day worries.
In my opinion it’s best to adventure around with no set plans and discover them ad hoc, a truly magical experience.
